gr5

Check out this active thread's discussion about how to fix layer adhesion for ASA:

Well I'd try to get the air temp inside your printer to about 40C so I'd enclose the top. Mostly enclosed. Just a box flipped over and placed on top should be fine. Also maybe thicker layers? Are you doing 0.2mm layers? I'd do at least 0.2mm thick or maybe thicker. Then I'd set the fan speed to something half way between 15% and 1%. Yes I didn't mention that the quality of overhangs will indeed suffer if fan is at 0% but just a little bit more fan should be enough. Really I just wouldn't print with ASA at all as other materials are easier to print and meet my needs. Like PLA, PETG.

There's lots of issues with this model according to cura. I opened it up in meshlab and I could see these points (not lines or surfaces) at the two tips of that shape that are far from the model. You should start by deleteing these. Cura says you have 26 separate submeshes and also that the model is not "water tight" aka "manifold". That doesn't sound good. You could try a free model repair service but I recommend you try to figure out how to create 3d printable parts in Blender. Blender was not designed to create 3d parts so it lets you create nice virtual models (visible in a computer but with no physical thickness) so for example you can create infintiely thin walls and stuff that isn't printable in Blender. Google around - try something like "making manifold parts in blender". netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

I looked at both your 3mf file and your gcode and also sliced your 3mf file. It works fine. I think what is happening is that you are probably loading the gcode file back into cura and then using the slider and it looks like it prints all at once. But it doesn't. Cura has a bug that when it displays gcode files it displays it by layer height instead of the order it is in the file. Am I being clear? It's just a bug in how cura displays a gcode file. I also opened your gcode file in a text editor and if you search for Z0.28 you will find that this occurs twice in the file. The second time about half way through the file when it goes to print the second part. So - the gcode is fine.

I don't think it's possible to have nothing in top thickness.

That's underextrusion. Also see "pillowing". Usually you fix it by having more layers in the top skin. What is your layer height and what is your top thickness? It could also be that your infill is too sparse or you are printing too fast (extruder can't quite keep up) but it visually looks like you just need 2 more layers to get it "normal".

I have some unbricking information here: http://gr5.org/unbricking However I'm guessing you have the S5R2 and much of the advice on that web page is for the R1 (release 1). The R1 has a robot image on the 2 side panels. The R2 has a "U" on the 2 side panels.

Octolapse! Cool. I just learned something. The next time someone has this problem I'll ask if they are using Octoprint!

What!? In the passenber compartment?? That can get HOT. Hot enough to melt PLA. So yeah PETG, Nylon, nGen can handle the heat. No idea about UV but I don't think much UV gets through the glass? I don't know.

Ah! That makes the parts STRONG!

So in the image above that I posted you can see that on one of those layers where the wall is thinner, it starts printing the new layer right where you have underextrusion. More importantly that's also where it starts the outer shell (after it finishes the inner shell). So the inner shell lines are extremely thin - it is barely extruding at all - it's trying to fill in the gap between the outer shell but your walls of your model are not much more than 0.8mm thick here. If the wall is 1mm thick then it's extruding 0.4mm thick lines on the outer shell but that leaves only 0.2mm (0.1mm on each pass) for the inner wall. Then it suddenly jumps from extruding almost nothing to full on 0.4mm thick beads and it takes a while to equalize so it underextrudes. Solutions: 1) Make the part closer to an integral of 0.8mm thick so make the part 0.8mm or 1.6mm thick instead of about 1mm thick on this thin walls where it's underextruding. If you aim for 0.8mm you might also have to check the box "print thin walls" 2) Check the box "outer before inner walls". This will make the switchover problem occur on the support which doesn't care so much. In addition I'd consider making all printing speeds the same at 30mm/sec. Speed changes can cause under or overextrusion. But that's not the problem in this example.

Ah! I see the problem.

Yikes. Where did he get the witbox hex file? Ultimaker firmware is for Ultimaker printers only. It will not work on any other printer - not even clones of ultimaker printers as even the clones are slightly different. Just one change in one pin is enough to keep the display from working. So... your printer is not exactly bricked - you need the witbox hex file and then you can upload within Cura using a "custom hex file". There are many many other programs that can update the hex file. Any arduino IDE can do it or (better) you can use pronterface. Or stick with Cura - it worked last time - it should work again. But you need to find the correct hex file that is meant for your exact printer. There may even be a few different versions of your printer with a few different hex files but probably only one. Contact witbox or google around. If I misunderstood you and you already used the "correct" witbox file then try using pronterface instead of cura. It's a little more dependable (not a lot). Also try powering up the printer just about the same moment you start the upload. And vary the timing until it works. The arduino inside the witbox is more receptive when it first powers up. That's my experience anyway.

I can't help you with most of this. But down arrow means nozzle goes "down" to the bed or gets "closer" to the bed or "down towards z=0" which is as down as you can get. Nozzle hitting bed is all the way down. For printers where the bed moves (I'd say 90% of printers, the nozzle moves up and down, not the bed), it is indeed counter-intuitive (I have often done what you did) but also correct. This is also how it works in octoprint (which I strongly recommend you switch to - try octoprint with a $25 raspberry pi - it's amazing) and how it works in pronterface (also better software than cura for printing over USB). For people who's bed moves in Y (like prusa printers, creality printers) they complain as well (I hit the moveY up button but the bed moved towards me instead of away). The 8 arrows are from the nozzle perspective. not the bed.

I should say that I've also seen strange movements similar to this - with all axes except Z (because Z movements are extremely rare in gcode compared to the other 3) - where it reads a bad gcode from the SD card randomly and it changes one of the digits in the movement and may move for example exactly 100mm in X or Y or E. Then it goes back and continues where it left off. The fix is typically to take apart the SD card reader and clean it with isopropyl alcohol. I found a small hair - like an eyelash - in my SD card reader. After removing the hair the problem still happened but about 100X less often (once every 5 hours instead of once every 2 minutes). Does it always move to the right? Towards the center? Or does it sometimes move Y axis and sometimes just move the extruder a long ways (like the printer stops moving for a few seconds while it unextrudes and re-extrudes).

I think maybe there is a feature in Marlin (on your creality printer) that moves the head away from the print and triggers a digital signal - the idea is to take a photograph after each layer to make a stop motion video. I'm thinking you have that feature enabled on your printer.

If you have the S5R1 then I recommend you order the Olimex-serial-F cable now just in case. It's only $7 at digikey.com. And get a uSD card if you don't have one (I think it must be 4-32GB range). Just do the unbricking procedure. You don't have much choice at this point. I think you have to contact your reseller. Let them know if you have the S5R1 or S5R2.

Or you can ignore those up-curls. I call them "raised edges". They happen a lot on overhangs but if you ignore them they mostly fix themselves when the nozzle pushes them back down. Although the print head can hit the part pretty hard so you may want to use pva/water solution to get the part to stick extra well. They look ugly half way through the print but tend to straighten out if you look away. I'm not sure. Those might be just too much. PLA shrinks in the first dozen milliseconds after it leaves the nozzle and it sticks to itself like snot. So you get a tight liquid rubber band being placed onto the lower layer and it pulls inwards (this is also why vertical holes always come out too small). So this liquid rubber band action also lifts up the edges of overhangs like this. There's not a lot you can do about it other than reduce the overhang amount.

Wenn es sich um ein UM2 handelt, das alt genug ist, verfügt es über einen Ersatzkanal für einen zweiten Extruder. Wenn Sie nett fragen, erstellt @tinkergnome möglicherweise eine benutzerdefinierte Version der Firmware für Sie, sodass Sie die Z-Achse in den Ersatz-Extruderanschluss stecken können. Keine spezielle Verkabelung erforderlich.

I haven't messed with this but your printer (called a "machine" in cura) has compatible filaments. Then there are filaments with diameters. You can tell cura that it is compatible with 1.83mm diameter filaments but you then have to select a filament that is "1.83mm in diameter". The default is probably 1.75mm in diameter and so it's probably off by 4.6%. Oh wait - it's squared. So it's off by 9.35%. You probably also want to set your line width parameter to 1.83mm. Typically you want the line width to be the same as the nozzle diameter.

no. Go into PREPARE mode (as opposed to PREVIEW). Just below the bar with PREVIEW is a bar that shows your extruders and materials. Click on either extruder (doesn't matter which) and it pops up a control with 2 tabs. Choose the tab for the extruder to disable and uncheck it. This is the same place where you can choose filament type/color/size.

Please share your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

Here's another thing I do. I take a nice glass jar with a screw-on lid. I squeeze some elmers wood glue into it and then add water. About 20 parts water to 1 part glue (it's not exact - you can do "10 to 1" or "50 to 1"). Shake it up good then use a paint brush and paint this on the bed. Heat the bed to printing temp (e.g. 60C) and it should dry about the same time it takes to heat up (2-5 minutes). This provides a nice printing surface that most filaments will stick to (including PLA and PVA). There is PVA (or similar chemical) in the following: Elmer's glue, hairspray.

Again - I'm going to say most likely the PVA is wet. Did you try drying? At least for 2 hours at 60C unspooled? Just unspool 2 or 3 meters and if I'm right the first 2 meters should print perfectly.

PVA is definitely harder to print. There are lots of possibilities. I really don't like the look of all that burned PVA so maybe do more cold pulls and learn how to do them properly but lets go with humidity first... PVA (and nylon) absorb water like crazy. It's annoyingly good at it. Just leaving PVA out on your printer for 2 days (could be a single print that lasts 2 days!) is enough to "ruin" it. You know the PVA is too wet if you hear sizzling, popping, and see steam coming out of the nozzle. Although it could be only a little bit wet and still causing issues. You can restore PVA by heating it. Set the print bed to 60C. Uncoil enough PVA for an experiment. Put the filament directly on the bed and the spool on top of that. cover this with a towel or sheet or blanket. Preferably you want a good 20cm of insulation on top of the spool (otherwise the top of the spool will be at only 30C). Leave it like that for 3 hours to dry just the last few meters or for a day or 2 to dry the whole spool. Try printing again and the first layer should be transparent. Whenever the first layer is snowy/cloudy it probably has water in it. Same with nylon. Alternatively you have a partial clog. Maybe use some other filament to do the cold pull. Read a few different articles about cold pulls - written for other printers than yours to get a better understanding. There are hundreds of articles and some better than others so read a few - that include pictures - to really understand it.