gr5

If you follow all the recommendations in the article and it still won't fit then you are out of luck. It looks to me like the issue is in the back right corner where the nozzle changer is - if it prints there it will hit. Maybe if you rotate the part 90 degrees CCW so that the curved part is where the nozzle-changer-keep-away-zone is.

Did you get infill wipe distance and the other settings in the link above?

What geert_2 said. Add a drop of oil to the 4 large and 2 thin rods. But more likely the problem is you need to tighten the set screws on the pulleys. It looks like the Y axis so only work on those. It's almost always the screw on the stepper motor itself. You can get to that screw without taking anything apart if you move the head around by hand until the screw lines up and using a long hex driver to get down in there. Tighten the hell out of that set screw! Much tighter than you would think is necessary. If you were to use a little L shaped allen wrench it will hurt your fingers to get to the proper torque. The wrench should actually twist slightly! It's a lot of force.

You have 2 issues. The first issue is that the walls are too thin for your "line width". Line width should be the same as nozzle size within a range of 75% to 150% so if your nozzle is 0.4mm you can go down to 0.3mm line width without losing much quality. Also you can check the option "print thin lines" that will let you print even thinner walls. You can experiment with setting nozzle width smaller and smaller until it prints those letters but if you go much below 0.3mm quality will suffer. Alternatively you can set "horiztonal expansion" to say 1mm and those walls should print fine but the letters will be a bit harder to read and those eye walls will merge into one. So play with those to get an understanding. The more serious problem is that having paper thin walls for your text is not going to be able to withstand the pressures you need to stamp leather. I have no experience stamping leather but I'd say make the height of those letters no more than 2X as high as the width. Right now they look to be about 10X taller than wide. Maybe 3X will work - not sure the pressures involved with stamping letters. I exaggerated, a little, when I said paper thin - those look like maybe 4 sheets of paper thick. But being so tall and thin I think they will all just snap off when you squeeze hard against leather. I guess ideally you would have the letters on cone shaped bases such that the walls of the letters are sloped like mountain ridges instead of thin walls.

set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both details here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura

Sorry I didn't check the STL but I think the walls are just a little too thin. Try setting "horizontal expansion" to 1mm just as a quick test and then playing with that. Or alternatively, try setting "line width" to smaller and smaller values until it slices. It's okay to have line width at 75% of nozzle size - print quality won't suffer much. So 0.3mm line width for a 0.4mm nozzle.

The latest version of that Cura was 15.04.06 (refers to the release date meaning April 2015 6th version that month)

I don't know but what I do know is this: STL files do not store units. There is no unit. Cura assumes the unit is mm. Most CAD programs allow you to choose the unit when you save to the STL file (this is different from the working unit in the same CAD program which could be for example inches). When you load an STL, if it is "too small" it enlarges by I think 100X (which is 10000%). I'm not sure what "too small" is but I think around 3mm maybe? This 100X option is in the cura preferences (not the slicing settings) and can be disabled. If you know the STL is in inches then scale up by exactly 25.4X (2540%). If you know the STL is in cm then scale up by 10X. And so on. You will always get perfectly scaled parts.

Again, I don't think vacuum bags will help. You need dessicant. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant&qid=1620530771&sr=8-4 Also once you get water in the filament, no amount of vacuum or dessicant will help - you need to heat it as I describe above.

All right. I'll do it. 😞

I probably can't help you much because for my use I really don't care about bumps and don't really pay any attention to them but I noticed all those strange travel moves to the right. What's that about? Please post your project file so I can see all your settings. Do "file" "save project as..." and please post that here. If your goal is to get bumps on a benchy then you did everything right - you got a huge printer, you printed in shiny black filament and went for extra thin layers. That's the perfect combination for the most visible bumps. If you go for white filament and just as important, a matte filament and print on a very small printer (like Ultimaker 2go) then it will be 10X harder to notice any bumps (they'll still be there if you have a microscope). In general, bumps are caused when, due to high pressure, a little plastic squirts out sideways from the nozzle. It could be the pressure is too high (meaning printing too fast or if there is a speed change), bad retraction, sudden slow down (maybe due to too many points in STL or changes in print speed (bad settings)). Basically all manner of things can cause bumps but almost every issue is improved by slowing things down. A lot. Like 2X or 4X (which would cut the pressure in the nozzle by 2X or 4X and make those bumps 2X/4X as more infrequent and 2X/4X smaller but they might still be there if you are determined enough to see them). Also set all print speeds to be the same speed as speed changes can cause quality issues. Those weird travel moves off to the right could be the cause also. Maybe. Anyway they shouldn't be there - something is wrong.

I don't know about temperature. slice and save it as gcode and look at all the M gcodes. See if it heats up before or after your bit of code. There are variables you can use and Cura will substitute - something like M109 S{first_layer_bed_temperature} See this post for more info:

Looks perfect except E100 is much too much extrusion - this is the distance the filament moves and even if you have 1.75mm filament (would be even worse for 3mm filament) that's much too much extrusion. You need to do some math. 290mm of travel X (I assume you have 0.4 nozzle) 0.4 X 0.15 = 17.4 cubic mm of filament. Now assuming 1.75mm filament... 17.4 / (area of filament) = 17.4 / (3.14 * (1.75/2)^2) = 7.24mm So if you extrude 7.24mm of filament it will be the exact right amount (E7.24 not E100) However you want to overextrude by 30 to 100% so I'd do E10.

The UM3 levels 3 axis (tip, tilt, height). the S3/S5 also detects "hills" and "valleys" in the glass and corrects for these as well: grid compensation. The sensor is the same. But you can't disable autoleveling on the S3/S5 (well you can but it's a pretty serious hack) but you can disable it on the UM3.

I don't know about .net. I doubt it. The slicer is mostly pure C++ and the GUI portion is I think in qt and python. I don't know if qt uses .net but I doubt it. But basically I don't know the answer.

I disagree. Several times. In my posts above. Please please please post a project file so I can try to duplicate your issue. Again - your part was too big but in theory you can just scale it down to 90% (that's an option in cura - you don't have to do anything in cad). I did that myself but then I didn't get your triangle issue. So please duplicate your issue on a smaller part (or the existing part scaled down somewhat) and then post the project file and then lets see if greg or I can duplicate your issue. If so then we can all 3 post in gitub issues and they cura software guys will likely take a look at the issue. Oh and let's do this in Cura 4.9 (the latest) otherwise they'll just ask for you to get it to fail in cura 4.9 before they'll even look at it and if you don't reply it autocloses after a few weeks. I speak from experience.

There are no instructions above to print a line on your print bed. It should home the axes then move the head 15mm above the bed (where it says "move the platform down 15mm" which is silly since many printers it's the nozzle that moves and homing may be in the other direction but whatever). Then it extrudes 3mm of filament (in the air - above your print bed) then it starts printing your part. This is to prime the nozzle. No "line"

That's called a brim. (like a hat brim) It's very useful - especially for novices to help keep your part sticking to the print bed. You don't need it for smaller parts but will likely need it for parts that are over 150mm in at least on direction (x or y). Bed adhesion is a complicated issue. Anyway - you can get rid of it at your own peril by changing the "build plate adhesion type" to "skirt" instead which is similar but won't touch the part. The skirt is to get the flow moving in an equilibrium state so I recommend doing the skirt as a minimum.

Oh and I wouldn't get a vacuum chamber for the PVA. You can make it too dry if you go too far. Just use the printer itself. Leave the spool on the print bed with a blanket over it set to 60C. You might need many inches of blankets (otherwise the top of the spool may only be at say 40C). Leave it like that several nights in a row or for a few days to dry it out nicely. The material station should be able to keep the PVA dry just fine - but I don't have a MS so I don't speak from experience. But I don't think the MS can dry PVA that is already wet. If you only need a few meters of PVA then I unspool a few meters and put that directly on the bed with the spool on top and a towel/blanket over all that and you can restore PVA in just a few hours at 60C. Overly dry PVA gets extra brittle (I'm told - I've never experienced this - I've never dried my PVA too much). By the way, Nylon is the other filament that absorbs water like crazy. Those are the worst two (nylon, pva). PLA doesn't seem to have an issue (I suspect you can store it underwater for all it seems to care). The only other filament I've had get wet is some really old CPE that I left sitting out for a few years with no dessicant. Also easily dried on the heated bed.

The BB core can print PLA just fine - there are no issues except you will get more stringing in your print. No harm to the BB core. Anyway for cleaning the core it's definitely fine to use PLA. Or PVA. I'd remove the bowden tube on the top of the head and insert manually. You slide out the white clip and push down on the collet while pulling out the bowden. The entire cleaning process seems involved the first time but is super easy the second time. There are tons of videos about cold pulls on youtube - you don't have to watch an Ultimaker specific one. When you do it right the filament will come out in the shape of the interior of the nozzle - perfectly. Even the tiny final tube/passage. If you see black gunk then that's good - you are removing that gunk from the BB core.

You didn't do the whole "solved" process. Try the instructions again. When you do it right there will be a large SOLVED word in a dark/obvious green ellipse before and on the same line as the topic title.

I guess I don't understand why you care. On the way to printing at z=0.2 it pauses for just an instant at Z=1.2. Why is this a problem?

Don't worry about it. If you really need the recovery image (unlikely) someone will help you. Also there is a link to an older one in the unbricking post above.

@geert_2 - anyone (well at least the topic creator) can now mark a topic as solved by following these instructions:

I'd talk to your reseller about this. I'd also try to see if I can move that Z switch down a few mm. You can just bend the metal tab a tiny bit and you should be good to go. For every .1mm you bend that switch down the bed will end up 0.1mm farther from your nozzle when you home. @Smithy has an UM2+C. Maybe he knows something.