gr5

Well cura almost likely considers the start of your print an "unretraction". The moment before it starts printing. So it probably feels it also has to do an "unhop". It also considers the first layer a "layer change". Most likely. Just guessing here (trying to think like the programmer who wrote these features).

No. Right click and see if you can "unmerge" and/or "ungroup" the model and then get rid of any other stuff. There's likely something in the STL file that you don't consider to be part of the model - over in the opposite corner of the build plate perhaps - you might be able to see it or it might be invisible. Once you have unmerged, drag your part to the center. If that doesn't work try the "split model into parts" option in "mesh tools" (first you have to install the mesh tools plugin and restart cura). You use that from right click menu also.

In machine settings for your printer uncheck the box "origin at center". Also make sure "x (width)" and "y (depth)" values are correct.

It could also be related to "retract on layer change". Since going to the very first layer is sort of a layer change it might retract. And whenever it retracts it hops. "z hop when retracted" is a really bad idea for 90% of printers but works great for Delta printers like yours. retracting on layer change - probably not a good idea.

Yes but once started it should be snappy. As long as you don't load a massive 100 million polygon STL file.

It won't make any difference most likely. It could be running slow for many reasons but not because your computer is slow or hard drive. google around this website (ultimaker.com) for other people who found the problem. Some things from my memory: - unplug all USB devices - sometimes a serial device looks similar to a printer and cura keeps asking it if it's a printer and it doesn't respond - unplug all USB devices - an SD card or flash drive can distract cura as well thinking it might want to save your project on there later - network drives (similar) - firewalls - disable all firewall and security features for a few minutes to see if that helps. I've seen a few posts where this was a miracle cure for cura. - network devices - sometimes cura is looking on your network for printers. Try just unplugging your access to any network just to see what happens

I'm thinking "z hop when retracted"

1) So you are saying the screw is as tight as it can get? 2) Is this a brand new printer or was it find for a while? If #2 is true, there could be something interfering with the Z limit switch. Raise the bed with your hands and look under - there should be a screw or something sticking down I think (I don't know the UM2+C very well). That screw should go into a hole I think that triggers the Z limit switch. If a tiny piece of plastic falls into that hole then you get the symptoms you describe.

This is a known 4.9 bug (2nd extruder over retraction). Expect a 4.9.1 release soon.

gcode looks fine. I looked for bad feedrates (which can print so slow you thing the printer is stopped) or unusual M codes (like M1 which pauses the printer). I would do a diff of the file on the SD card versus the "same" file on the hard drive to make sure it is not corrupted on the SD card. That's all I can think of.

When you soak PVA for a while it gets like a gel. Not sure if you can get it to completely dissolve. I guess probably but depending how thin the passages are and how long it could take weeks to dissolve a channel of PVA deep in a gel.

I haven't spoken to them in a year but there are some real nice people at 3DUniverse. But if you reach out to them about something else and get no reply contact support@fbrc8.com. I'm not sure what the official rules are but I assume it's okay to contact fbrc8 if 3DUniverse ignores you. fbrc8 has it's own support department and they assemble all the printers sold in the USA (including yours) so they are pretty knowledgeable and can help you with things like unbricking or parts. Always include the SN of your printer with any communication with fbrc8.

Answer above questions for a quick answer but here's the long answer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k

I looked at your STL and it's fine. It's manifold and the normals are facing the right way. The only thing I can think of is that in "mesh fixes" setting in cura you have "remove all holes" checked. Uncheck that. In fact uncheck everything in "mesh fixes" section. By the way when I sliced it, it was fine. If you still can't figure it out, do a "file" "save project as" and post the project file. That will have the model but also many other things including your profile, printer settings, scaling factor and rotation of part, material chosen and more.

By the way, all resellers have the ability to sell you any part in any Ultimaker printer. But because there are thousands of parts (many thousands maybe?) and because it's complicated (sometimes a part is only compatible with printers of a certain serial number range) and prices change, you will not find them on their webstore. You have to email or call them.

This is called the lift switch. It is broken - not repairable. Contact your reseller. Give them your serial number and tell them "the lift switch broke". You have many options: 1) You can send the whole printer to them - this is likely expensive and printers are easily damaged in transportation but this is a good option if you have lots of money. 2) You can have them send you the necessary parts and you can fix it yourself. If it's under warranty this is free. If not this is still very little money (compared to the cost of filament). There are very well written instructions with lots of pictures showing you how to take apart the print head and reassemble it. It's really not hard - it's not like an iphone that is glued together - everything in these printers comes apart easily. Easy to fix. (option 2 is two options as one involves warranty and one does not) 3) You can turn this into a single extruder printer. I don't recommend this option but there *is* a way to disable the active level. It involves hacking the firmware but I know people who have done it and I have the instructions somewhere. Not recommended. Plus you will have to redo the hack each time firmware is updated. Option 2a or 2b is best.

Completely normal. On the upper right face of the print head is a lever. Pull that towards you and it will left the right core. Release it and it lowers the right core back down (it needs to be lowered to slide the core in and out). the cores are identical heights by themselves but the right core alway sits lower when you first slide it in (and higher when the left core is printing). This is because the unused core, if used in the last few seconds, tends to leak a tiny bit so it's held just high enough over the part being printed so that filament doesne't end up in the part on some random spot. It's okay also to have the BB core in the left and AA in the right but no one does this so I recommend you don't do this also. But it should work. I would hope.

Yes! Absolutely. Some people actually print just with PVA and never dissolve the part in water. I don't know what their plan was but yes you can certainly print a part purely in PVA. You don't need a 2 head printer for that. It's not as nice a material as PLA - PVA doesn't stick to itself when molten the same way PLA and ABS does so you tend to get occasional little bits of PVA scattered about but the quality isn't too bad. I bet you could dye it as well. PVA absorbs water well so I'm guessing a water based dye would look fantastic on a PVA part.

You don't have to create an Ultimaker account to use Cura and I'm not sure if there are any advantages to having one if you don't have an Ultimaker printer. Often when a browser link doesn't do anything it's because of a popup blocker or ad blocker. Usually you can see that on the right edge of the address bar - click all the icons to the right of the address bar in chrome particularly if you see a puzzle piece.

Yes I agree. To fix the second problem it could be either partially clogged or the PVA may have absorbed too much water. Just 2 days on the back of the printer is sometimes enough to "ruin" the filament. To unclog a BB core read about hot and cold pulls. There are instructions on the display of what to do and guidance. To restore PVA read about how to do that. I use the heated bed to restore a spool of PVA. It can take just hours or days depending how much filament you need to restore (whole spool or outer bits). Be careful not to overheat - just read what other people have written.

For other people reading this thread - understand that normally you can upgrade the firmware from the display - this unbricking is only for people with an S5, S3, or UM3 that is "bricked" in that the display touch screen is useless.

I would get the olimex-serial-F cable (from amazon in USA or from olimex.com if in europe) to see what's going on. I have tons of debugging information about this issue including how to get access to the python log files to see what is failing. I am going to go out on a limb and suggest you have some corruptions on your "hard drive" on the olimex board on your S5. Corruptions that can be worked around. Anyway to answer your question - you must contact your reseller to get the recover firmware and procedure. I think they want you to sign something because there are indeed deadly, exposed voltages in the S5 release 1 when remove the bottom cover. I have TONS of information here for fixing your issue with almost zero cost or the minimum cost: http://gr5.org/unbricking/

Did you upgrade to cura 4.9? If so then this is a known bug where the right hand extruder retracts too much before printing. I think a 4.9.1 release is imminent (not sure). A quick fix might be to lift the lever on the right feeder and slide the PVA further in just before it starts printing - not sure if this will work. Or go back to cura 4.8 until 4.9.1 comes out.

I think you need to do 2 things. Or maybe just one of them: 1) I think you may have put the "plus" firmware (UM2+) on a UM2. Double check that you put the right firmware on your printer. The UM2 has a black feeder. The UM2+ has a white feeder. 2) Do a "FACTORY RESET". It's in the menu system somewhere accessed on the front of the printer. I can explain more about this if you want. After doing those 2 things most of your issues should go away but possibly not all. You might want to remove the glass for now until it seems like things are working although I've had the glass slam into the nozzle and never gotten a scratch.

Yes, I realize that now. But could you please publish a new project file that gives the problem but where the part is a little smaller? Somehow even though your project file had most of your machine settigns - somehow you modified the keep away zones or something.