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1) You can slice in cura and save the gcode file and print using different software. If you go that route I recommend this software which is much better at printing over USB than cura: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ 2) Cura can't open the comm port if some other app has it open so make really really sure that all copies of 3d builder are NOT running. Not even a hint of it in the background somewhere. 3) What is the com port number as reported in device manager?

I was hoping you had another computer @baltic. Yeah I don't know how to help you other than that. I looked at the STL very carefully where it's making your "shelves" and I can see which line it's connecting to - why the triangle is that shape - but Cura shouldn't do that and it doesn't do it on my computer nor on Greg's. I've never seen this issue before (where the STL is perfectly fine yet it intermittently slices wrong like this). You could submit it as a Cura issue on github and include your project file but if the developers can't duplicate it, I'm not sure they will pay much attention. Maybe if you can get it to duplicate after scaling the part down - that way I can see if I can duplicate your issue consistently? Maybe I can't duplicate because I scaled the part down. maybe if you choose a larger printer (like and Ultimaker S5) the problem will happen?

Wow. This is again, news to me. Ultimaker PVA has always been more brittle than PLA but not so bad that it would break while loading or break in the bowden. I've never treated it gently. Again, I'm told that this can happen if it gets too dry but I use a LOT of dessicant and regularly recharge the dessicant. Around 1 Cup or 1/4 liter of dessicant per spool.

O pregunte en la sección en inglés y puede apostar algunas respuestas mejores.

Mi amigo español dice que pruebes prusa slicer. O quédate con cura 15.X.

Maybe I should explain better - STL files have a set of unordered triangles and each triangle has an "in" side and an "out" side. The side facing air is white and the side facing interior is gray in sketchup. If you get those backwards, Cura gets very confused and sometimes does not print certain features.

So that looks like sketchup. And I can see that some of the faces are white and some gray. So the first thing to fix is, in sketchup, all gray suraces - right click on them and select "reverse faces" such that the surfaces are then white. Also make sure there aren't any interior walls that don't need to be inside your model. Those also mess up cura. Try that and if you still have trouble, post your STL file for us to look over.

And the 3rd option is they might hit "file" "export". Which is also bad (just saves the model).

Yes that's what I mean but the common point is not in the STL directly - there should be one line that the common point is on at the height of the current slice. Those "common lines" have a point at each end to define them. Those points are in two different triangles that should have a common edge (the common edge is the 3d line). It's hard to explain in words. Anyway I don't think that's the problem. I think the calculation of all the line segments has some kind of floating point error. Like if you had the old pentium from years ago where sometimes the floating point processor returned the wrong answer? I'm not sure.

Okay so that's not the issue. I looked at your first 3mf file. It's not a project file. In cura when you save the project DO NOT DO: "file" "export". This saves a 3mf file that contains only the model. Instead do "file" "Save project...". This saves all the settings. And also the model.

I think I know the issue. If you open a project file it should then ask you if you want to open it as a single model or the whole project. I'm guessing it's not asking you. It should also often ask if you want to update the machine "ultimaker 3". Anyway go to menu option "preferences" "configure cura". Scroll all the way down and there is a dropdown just below "default behavior when opening a project file". Set it to "always ask". Or to "always open as project" Answer to #3. Rename it to ".zip" instead of ".3mf". Then double click on it and the files in there are all (mostly?) text files. If this doesn't work I would try completely erasing all the user settings on the machine that you are using to load the project files. You will lose all settings and all machine types you configured so maybe test this out on a different computer? Here's how to do that: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013007080-How-can-I-completely-reset-my-Ultimaker-Cura-installation-

Personally I would just design the supports in cad. That way you have perfect control. You can put the supports on a different cad layer to keep them separate from the design itself. Secondly those supports are pretty skinny in this case and so I think I would just stick with what cura already gave you in this particular case. The added material and time is a small percentage of the entire print. The supports that are in the first photo were almost certainly added by meshmixer. Here's a good (but old) article:

Sounds good. Get a spool of nGen from colorFabb (Netherland company). I think you'll like how it cuts with a knife as well. And it looks good. And it's so much easier to print than ABS and will tend to be 10X stronger than ABS (because ABS usually has poor layer adhesion) and it works in higher temps. But if you don't need higher temps, the PLA is the best. Oh and nGen doesn't smell bad.

You lowered the fan speed as well? So even if you have zero splitting you probably still have weak layer adhesion. A good test is to break a test part. If it breaks along layer lines (it shouldn't) then you have weak layer adhesion. It should break "randomly" and ignore layer lines for the most part. Most ABS prints are like this as users don't know how important layer adhesion is. So the part looks strong. It feels strong. Until the moment it breaks. Along the "grain".

Picture please (screenshot). No idea what this "solid block" is that you speak of. If the rudder is very tall and thin such that is wobbles then maybe you should add support to the rudder to hold it better (add in CAD software, not cura). Also if this is on a prusa or ender printer where the print bed moves in the Y direction then maybe align the airplane facing towards the front or back of the printer so there is less vibration in that direction where the rudder is weak. But picture please as it sounds like your issue is different than what I think it is.

I looked at your stl carefully. I had to uncheck "union overlapping volumes". I don't know why you thought that should be checked. It needs to be unchecked. Then it prints as your STL shows which may not be what you want. It prints a donut shaped void in your part where you could insert a donut shaped magnet. I assume instead that your magnet is a solid cylinder? If so then you have 2 problems with your model: 1) You have a double inner wall instead of a single wall to transition from "plastic" to "magnet". 2) Your normals are backwards: In sketchup you want all walls that face air to be white and the side of every wall that faces plastic should be gray. In sketchup to reverse them, right click on a wall and select "reverse faces". Again, "gray" should face plastic (interior) and white should face air or magnet. And uncheck "union overlapping volumes".

Oh. Make those tabs rounded then. You don't want all the lifting power to be able to be on one point (the tip of the corner).

I don't think it's the model. I was so convinced it was the model. I opened the original STL file in meshlab and looked at the normals and everything looks perfect. It's possible that one point is different where two triangles come together at a point -- although it looks like they meet at the same point, one point could be off a bit. But I doubt it. Why would CAD do that? Not likely the problem. I think I know what the problem is. It's a floating point rounding error. When cura "slices" it works on one layer at a time. A few layers are failing. When it is working on a layer it has the STL file which is an unordered (this is important) list of triangles. There is no relationship - the STL doesn't say which triangles are near each other or share a border. So Cura intersects the current plane with ALL the triangles and gets a set of lines all in the same plane so they are 2D lines. The lines are in random order. Cura then tries to link them up into loops that connect back together (but don't cross - no figure 8 allowed). This is the part where Cura gets confused. There are VERY Large triangles in the area that fails. Somehow when it intersects a line with 2 neighboring triangles it is getting line segments that don't quite end at the same point. Anyway cura has a margin of error where it says "well these 2 points are the same within this tolerance so I think they are the same point and these 2 lines link up. I'm going to guess that the problem has something to do with the floating point processor on @baltic 's computer. I bet if he tries a different computer with different CPU it will work fine. These programs that "fix" the STL may (or may not) add more smaller triangles and that may help reduce floating point errors.

Waves (ghosting?) on the bottom layer are mostly normal. I wouldn't try to fix those as fixing those will cause your parts to warp even more. I strongly advise against ever using ABS. It's an inferior material that is difficult to print. If you need something that can handle higher temps I can recommend other materials - what is the max temp you need to go up to? What is the part used for? Warping - yes this is common with ABS. Are you talking mostly about the bottom layer? Well firstly you need to add some brim. A part that large with those square outer corners is a problem. If you can't round the corners then add "brim" in cura settings. Much more detailed info about how to prevent warping in ABS here - by the way you really want the bed at 110C but that's hard to achieve without covering the front and top of the printer. Your "squish" looks good though. Sorry my video is so long but it has a lot of critical information:

@Evavoo I'm amazed how many people claim they can't find filament in 2.85mm or 1.75mm. Every manufacturer (except maybe Prusa) sells both sizes. 1) Try searching for "3mm" as some sellers still call it 3mm or 2.9mm (even though the actual size is 2.85 or 2.9mm). 2) Try a little harder. If you can find a filament in 1.75 then the same store will have the same thing in 3mm. I have had MANY customers with the same complaint as you and it took me all of 5 minutes to find what they needed in the country or region they were in.

Note that the Ultimaker 2+ Connect cover WILL NOT FIT your ultimaker 2+. 1) I recommend not using ABS - not sure which property you care about but PLA is typically and tough PLA is tougher. If you want higher temp filament there are other choices (depending on temperature) such as nGen and PETG that are easier to print and don't smell so horrible as ABS. 2) splitting is caused by bad layer adhesion. You can simply lower the fan. A lot. Experiment with the fans - in TUNE menu, bring it down to 0% and then up very slowly until it starts spinning. Note the minimum % where it can *start* spinning. Once spinning you can lower it but you want the minimum starting percentage. Use that number in your material settings on the printer. 3) Try a cheap cover first. Just use some saran wrap or better - use a large ziplock bag to cover the front. Tape it with blue tape as it's temporary. The S5 prints ABS just fine with only a front cover. I recommend also a top cover - you can use a cardboard box unmodified. The type that holds reems of paper should be perfect. The box needs to be larger than the printer in the back to let the filament in. It's okay if he box is MUCH larger and has huge air gaps. It will still help. Ideal air temp is 35C to 45C. Try not to go over 45C (which is not a problem if you have large air holes. With small amount of insulation you can also get the bed hotter - try to get it to 110C as this will help a huge amount with holding the print down onto the glass. There is a huge difference between bed at 100C versus 110C. 4) After printing a few dozen prints, if you still like ABS and want nicer cover then there are solutions such as printedSolid.

I just loaded your project and sliced on Ubuntu and couldn't get the error. It slices fine. HOWEVER I had to reduce the part size to 98% to get it to fit on the bed. Usually project files are supposed to store everything including scaling of the part. It said you had an Ender 3. Is that correct? anyway I couldn't get it to fail. I changed the layer height from 0.2 to 0.11 and 0.003 and I don't get those triangular shelves. So either you included the wrong project file or something didn't get saved into the project file (I'm guessing something about the printer aka "machine"). When I opened it a second time it asked if I wanted to update my "machine" to match the machine in the project file and I said yes. It still won't slice as the model is ever-so-slightly too large.

That's my question as well. @GregValiant I thought you implied that you didn't get the problem with his project file but I'm not certain. I don't think you were explicit.

And then I think restart cura.

I agree that it should be comma (not semicolons) and commas in numbers should be quoted: hello,5, "1,0mm" However also realize that when you import a random text file it pops up a dialog that lets you choose the delimiter to be semicolon so if you name the file "txt" instead of "csv" it's only one or two extra clicks to import into excel. In my (older) version of excel if you pasted the text (semicolon delimited) you can select the column and choose the option "text to columns" and you get the same dialog where you can choose semicolon as the delimiter.