gr5

You could try pronterface/printrun. It's free. I'm pretty sure it's better than Cura's printing-through-usb interface (although I haven't tried that on Cura in a few years). You can probably launch an instance of pronterface per com port: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

One possibility is that there are too many triangles in your STL file. Try slicing something simple like a cube with only 12 triangles. Or something that you have sliced before that sliced quickly. Meshlab tells you how many triangles/faces there are the moment it loads your STL and can decimate them to fewer triangles as well if you want. This is just a guess but it's all I can think of right now.

If you have the wrong firmware then it will over or underextrude severely.

so the um2 and um2+ have steppers that turn opposite directions. But also the steps/mm is different. I recommend you get the correct firmware. It's easy to update the firmware in cura. First connect a USB cable from your computer to the printer. Then as shown below - go to PREPARE screen, click on your printer (make sure it's UM2 or UM2+ - the correct type). Then click "manage printers" and click on the circled button below.

I'm pretty sure this feature exists. Set "skin expand distance" to a large number like 1000.

This is an unstable way... Ha - just messing with you. I recommend getting some raspberry pi's (version 3) and putting octoprint on them. They only cost $37 each. How many printers are we talking about? 10? 4? Each raspberry pi will connect to one printer and will be on your network. You can connect to each of them through a web browser (including your phone or an ipad or whatever). You can upload jobs to them (gcode files) through the wonderful octoprint web page or you can use the cura octoprint plugin. Another way to do this is if you have Ultimaker printers: S3, S5, UM2+Connect. These all have network capability and cura lets you print right to them. Prusa printers also have some kind of factory software I think for controlling multiple at a time. I think they use the same software in their factory as they have hundreds of Prusas making Prusa parts.

I'm not sure where the feedback should go. I guess you need to be more specific about what exactly wording should change and then I'll try to get a UM employee to look at your suggestions. I have 3 2go's and I love them. All 3 have heated beds. You can print nylon on them but the teflon part will wear out faster. Still it's a cheap part and you'll spend less on those parts than on the filament. I set the heated bed to 80C and cover the front (but not the top) of my um2go. Still I usually use a different printer for Nylon. Nylon is one of my favorite materials - it's not as pretty and not as precise and requires keeping it very dry and often I have to redry my spools but mechanically it's wonderful in many situations. I have many 3d printed nylon components in products I ship to customers. PLA is my favorite material. For higher temp materials I like ngen which can be printed on a um2go just fine. Nylon comes in many mechanical properties from Taulman. "bridge" I find to be the easiest to print.

Well you can decimate the model (reduce polygons) - that might help a lot. Or it might wreck some of the dimensional accuracies. Anyway I've used this tool many times. I've reduced models by 10X 100X and even 1000X polygons and some models will still look just as good. It depends on how big the print is and other factors. Anyway meshlab is extremely easy to use and a very useful tool in your toolbox. And free. http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

Do you have a multimeter to check the resistance of the 5v fan? Or a friend who has one?

So forgetting about saving and loading project files - this is the step I think that caused you problems. Keeping it as a regular model will have it print perfectly.

Please confirm that you just have one extruder. If you want to print the support tree with the second extruder you want to assign that model to extruder 2.

So don't tell cura to "print as support". Instead just tell it to print normal as shown below. Also for some reason the 3mf file doesn't have the "tree shaped" support but somehow it got simplified into a hull shape.

Oh! I opened them in Cura 4.7. If I open them in Cura 4.8 they open fine... I'm a little distracted - watching a webinar at the same time...

Could you please post the project file? With it in the state of the last picture. Do "file" "save...". That way I get your machine settings, profile settings, everything.

I know you wrote that but I didn't understand as many of your photos showed the teal support. So you need to be more clear. Are you trying to tell me that in the photos above with the teal support you had support off? That doesn't seem possible. Please save your project file and post here. Do "File" "Save..." and post the resulting file. It will contain your models and placement and your machine settings and your profile and all your overrides and so on.

By the way that first photo with that tree support created with meshmixer - I've used meshmixer to do that but I always tweak a few things. That support has a high probability of coming loose so I'd have at least 2 connections to the print bed and I'd make sure the tree supports touch the exact outer corners and I'd probably make it thicker as well - looks like 3 or 4mm in diameter. Try 8mm in diameter with 3 pads to keep it more steady.

Turn off support. If you turn it off properly and reslice all the teal colored stuff will go away. When importing a second mesh as support (I've never tried this - I usually combine them into the same model) do not print that as support - print that as either using extruder 1 or if you have a dual extruder and you have a support material on the second extruder (like PVA or breakaway or PLA when pringing petg) then have the second extruder print the support mesh. turn off support.

I'm guessing your box is "close" to the size of your printer's abilities. You can lookup what Cura thinks your print volume is by: Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings" If your object dimensions are smaller than those dimensions then there are still a few things to do. Some settings to change such that cura doesn't print outside your box. set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both! details here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura

Are you going to print it on your S5 or on your Ender 3?

I would definitely check wiring to 5v devices carefully and the only thing I can think of is the 5v fan (the side fans are 24V) and the other pcb that has the display. It's quite possible that the problem is with one of the 5V chips such as the "arduino" and that the problem is completely on the old board. But if it were me I would measure the resistance to the 5V fan with an ohm - meter and move the print head around while measuring to see if the resistance occasionally drops to less than 5 ohms. Also when powering up the first time I would try without the fan and without the LCD board connected (it's harmless to leave that unconnected but don't plug/unplug while power is on). Because the worst thing is to destroy a second PCB and also not know why! Whereas if you plug things in slowly and it dies right after plugging in the fan or the display LCD then you have an idea what the cause was. If you have an IR camera (or even just an IR thermometer) then point it at that chip that died while turning things on. If it gets above 100C cut the power right away. It can probably handle 100C but that's an indication that something is wrong.

You want the part circled in green. not red.

yes I know what you mean. But then there should be a bar code and under that it should have "S/N" and then the serial number.

Yes! The feature is called "skin expand distance". If you set it to 100 for example it will completely close those or you can set it to say 4mm and it will give much stronger attachment between top skin and walls sitting above.

When you click on that pdf link above it may appear to do nothing but a file should appear in your download folder. A pdf file.

Or maybe you have the issue that ahoeben was talking about where the print profile trumps the material profile.