gr5

@GregValiant - can you make it easier for us please by posting the relevant code here instead of making us find the code? Comments in gcode start with semicolon. Comments in python start with a #

5 years As far as I know they last forever. You might have to spend $100 per year on maintenance ($20 on teflon part every 500-1000 hours and new set of belts every 2000 hours printing). I'm told there are UM2s with 20,000 hours printing on them which is 11 hours a day for 5 years. Wow. I think you could use half that value (10,000) and assume most printers are used 8 hours per day and 5 days per week, 50 weeks per year (which is heavy use - higher than average I suspect). That would be exactly 5 years. 5 years seems like a reasonable depreciation time frame. Even though they will last longer.

Oh! Well that looked like an Olsson ruby wrench in the photo. Yeah brass nozzles are cheap. You can get a chinese olsson block with 4 nozzles for about $20. If you couldn't get that nozzle out while hot with 4Nm torque (brass nozzles break around 4 to 6 Nm) - then I would just give up now. That sucker is in there good - I have no idea how that is possible (to get a nozzle that stuck in there). Where you printing ABS? Unlike PLA, ABS can turn in to a gummy gunk that is REALLY hard to clean up in threads. This happens at lowish temps (around 240C but it only takes 5 or 10 minutes and faster at even higher temps). Whereas PLA at normal printing temps (<220C) will never do this. Even at 240C for 10 minutes, PLA won't gum up like ABS does.

By the way, mounting a raspi under your UM2 is pretty cool. You can also get "um2" compatible PCBs from China that are almost free. They don't always come with stepper drivers - they usually socket the stepper drivers so you have to pick out the pololu that fits your needs. I don't recommend this route as it's very complicated and involved and you could easily spend many days figuring it all out (e.g. microstepping settings). But I think you can use the default UM firmware on the chinese boards.

You mentioned facebook so I went over there and found this photograph - I think you posted it... So it looks like you are good with soldering and such and probably know how to recognize chips and such. If you flip the white board over you can see a largish square chip (driver) located "near" each of the stepper connectors. There are 5 stepper connectors (X,Y,Z,E0,E1). Check to see if there are corresponding 5 chips or if E1 has a blank area. Your printer is old enough that I suspect you have a driver for E1 which you can hookup to Y stepper if you modify the firmware.

It's too bad you went this route of doing more force. All you had to do was heat the nozzle to 200C (or probably 150C would be enough) to get it out. What happens is some plastic can get in the threads and hardens in there like loc-tite. Anyway at this point you can either get a new Olsson block or you can try to get that piece of nozzle out. I'd take it out while hot (at 200C). I'd use a thread extractor. Search for "thread extractor" on the internet. I don't know what size is best so I'd get a few. But if you want this working again quickly just buy a new Olsson block. As far as the Ruby nozzles are concerned, Ulrich is talking about the 3dsolex product. It's just as good (better?) than the Olsson ruby and it costs less and is MUCH stronger because of the way it is built. The Olsson Ruby can dissentegrate at 2-3Nm if I remember right. The 3dsolex won't break until somewhere around 4-6Nm of torque. It's because the Olsson ruby is double walled in the threaded region - the inner cylinder holds the ruby in place. 3DSolex went a completely different route to hold the ruby in place. disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex rubies (aka Everlast) in my store - thegr5store.com

Let me know if you think you will go this route and if so I can dig up and edit a photograph of the UM2 PCB and circle the chip that may or not be installed on your particular board.

Yes, I agree with Erin's diagnosis. Simplest solution is to buy a new PCB. Least headaches. I'd get it from fbrc8.com as they have amazing service. There's a lot of great resellers in USA but nothing beats the service from fbrc8 in my opinion. HOWEVER, if you want to save some money (and trade it for your time) you have a few other options. You have an old UM2 which is fortunate because back in the day I think they were still hoping to have an upgrade to the UM2 that did dual feeders so there is probably an extra extruder servo driver for "E1" (versus E0). Or maybe it's E2 versus E1? So you can use that but that means you have to build a custom version of marlin. If you have experience with C compilers you can probably do it in 1-3 hours. If not it can be a lot of work. But there are people here on the forum who can help. Certainly send me a DM on the forum as I don't look at every notification (including this thread). Especially after a few days. Anyway, the edit you would want to make would be in pins.h. Take a look at pins.h. It should be realtively obvious - just grab the 2 pins for E1 and put them where the Y driver pins are (there's a DIR (direction) and a step pin). Here's instructions for building UM2 firmware: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16856-how-to-build-marlin-the-way-tinkerghome-and-ultimaker-do-it-if-you-have-windows/

Sounds cynical. I have met Erin personally and she's incredibly nice. And smart. And on the forums she helps people all the time even though it's not her job to do so. Anyway, getting to your issue - I'll go read again what you wrote instead of just skimming it...

I know someone with about 7 S5's and he has never used "one at a time" and never gotten this particular error. Oh and all his printers are busy pretty much 24/7. I think this bug somehow is related to "one at a time" mode but I can't imagine why that would make any difference. "one at a time" isn't much different from the other modes. I guess the way it calculates remaining time for the print job is different. That's all I can think of.

The bearings you can definitely buy 3rd party. I've bought different sized bearings on ebay. They tend to have 3 numbers, inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness (often not mentioned as this is pretty standard). Usually numbers are in integral mm (e.g. 12mm). Finally, some have a flange. I do not know the dimensions of the UM ones. Anyway you can get all the parts you might need at fbrc8.com. fbrc8.com assembled your printer as they assemble all Ultimaker printers sold in USA. You might have trouble finding a part on their website but you can just email them. Include the serial number of your printer and if the printer is new enough they might send you a part for free. Or not. It depends if it's for a spare or a genuine defect. support@fbrc8.com The company that sold you this printer can also get you any spare part but again, you will need to email them. Erin at fbrc8 is part of the support team I think. If not I'm sure she trained them as she knows an incredible amount about fixing UM printers. That's why I tagged her - I'll do it again: @fbrc8-erin

This is common enough that it has a name: "head flood". It's never happened to me but is common on the list. There are 2 possible causes. One not as likely: 1) The door doesn't stay closed and pops open because things are crooked. You can usually adjust the magnets a bit or loosen two of the screws that hold the door together and adjust it so it stays closed better. This is the unlikely cause. Very unlikely. 2) The much more likely cause is that your part comes loose from the print bed when the part is wider than tall. If the part is taller than wide it just falls over and you get spaghetti on top. If it is wider than tall then it gets dragged around the print bed like a hokey puck on ice and you get filament going into one spot of the part and it backs up inside the head. #2 is especially likely since I see you are desperate enough to try blue tape. Blue tape only works if you clean it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. Anyway, getting parts to stick to the bed better is a simple but long topic. There are many things to learn. Once you learn all the key points you WILL NEVER HAVE A PART COME LOOSE AGAIN. Ever. In fact you will have to *not* do some of the key techniques as you will be frustrated by how well the parts stick. I demonstrate lifting the entire printer up with a tiny print stuck to the bed. Anyway, my video is long but thorough. At the time I tried to keep it short and even went through cutting out a second here and there to make it shorter. I could do a lot better but it's a lot of content to get through. It's worth it. It will save you many hours of frustration. I explain not just what to do, but why.

Cura has like 5 temperatures. Did you check them all? There's a great search feature just above profile settings. When you enter a search term it shows even hidden settings. what kind of printer do you have? UM2 series printers set the temperature on the printer, not in cura. The machine type in cura settings is "ultigcode" and shouldn't be set to ultigcode for other printer types. COM7 should have worked but Cura just isn't great at USB printing - I'd try prontrface/printrun which is free and fantastic.

It gets easier and faster each time you take it apart.

@Dim3nsioneer @fbrc8-erin what do you guys think of the noise in the video of the first post? I'm 90% sure the poster is in USA.

I suppose it could be a bad bearing that makes this noise. They cost something like 2 $/Euros. The bearing is inset in the wall of the printer.

You want to slide the print head to one side such that the sliding blocks reach a pulley - make sure the belt is lined up with the rod above/below and make sure that the pulley is aligned also. Move the head to all 4 sides and at each side check the two pulleys that the sliding block is closest to. (8 pulleys to check) Also check that the 2 short belts to the stepper motors have pulleys that are lined up. Usually printers make this sound when the belts are very old and you replace the belts to get rid of the sound (although they usually print just fine even with the noise).

I hate that sound. Usually I only hear that sound after a printer has printed >2000 hours. But it won't affect your prints. It's something to do with the belts and pulleys I think? I guess it could be a bearing but I think it's something else. Anyway that has nothing to do with your vibrations. I think. Hmm. Or does it?

Well the other thing to try is level better. The bottom layer PVA should be squished really well. For the second layer not to stick to the first makes no sense as PVA usually sticks to PVA. Reasonably well. PVA is not as nice as PLA to print. It doesn't stick to itself when molten. Liquie PLA is like snot, like mucus - it sticks to itself like a liquid rubber band. PVA is more like concrete - it falls apart in separate pieces. But still - it should stick to itself enough that this is the easy part. The hard part is getting PVA to stick on top of PLA. But you aren't there yet. When you next print, listen while printing the PVA. See if you hear snap/crackle rice cereal like noises. If so then it's time to dry the PVA.

1) What is the green material? PLA? Because PVA doesn't work with some materials such as ABS. 2) Yes the PVA needs to be very dry. You can tell if it's very wet because it will snap and crackle and sizzle and you can even sometimes see puffs of steam coming out of the nozzle. This may not be your issue - I don't know. 3) This is a UM3, right? 4) Is the PVA directly on the build plate? I hope so. If not then this is a bug in Cura. I may have seen this bug. I think you could just turn off brim completely - this part might not need it. 5) Assuming PVA is directly on the build plate, try cleaning the bed very well, then put a few inches/cm of pva into a sealed jar with some water and let it dissolve for a day (or use wood glue - 10 to 20 parts water to one part wood glue and no waiting needed). Then paint this slurry on the *clean* bed. 6) Does your part really need any support? I don't know what is going to print next so I don't know. Maybe you can just turn the feature off. Do not leave PVA on the back of your printer when not in use. It needs to be stored in a sealed bag. I recommend buying a few of these rechargable dessicant packs: https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Indicating-Rechargeable-Functional-Microscopes/dp/B00YS3AFAA/ref=sr_1_50?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant+rechargeable&qid=1596215672&sr=8-50 Or you can get a gallon of the stuff and make your own packs. They change color when they absorb water and then you can microwave them back to dry again. This won't be enough to dry PVA that is already wet. For that, put it on the bed at 70C with a towel over it for a minimum of 8 hours but 24 hours is better. Or just unspool a few meters (if that's all you need) and dry that for one hour at 70C on the bed with the spool on top (no need to cut the PVA) and a towel over that.

@BrianQueen - I know it's been 18 months but what is the current status? Does it only happen on "one at a time" jobs?

Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (all speeds, except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked

Well I recommend 64 Gcode lookaheads. My redeem printer has 256 lookaheads and it prints fine. Maybe the stuttering is something else - sharp corners - maybe increase the jerk a bit to see what happens. Did you look at the STL or the gcode to see if there was excessive points in the circle? You shouldn't need more than one every mm or so but might find 10 or 20 all within a mm occasionally if the STL is decimated badly.

If you bend it use 2 needle nose pliers. The "screwdriver" is a 2mm allen wrench.

Oh - it does the very noisy shaking? That means it's not homing properly. It doesn't detect the switch at all. So either the switch fell off, or moved or the cable is broken somewhere. First make sure you at least hear the click when the head is all the way to the left. If you don't - that's good - it means you have a mechanical issue which is easy to understand. If it *does* click then there is something wrong with the electrical wire that runs from the switch to the PCB underneath. Maybe the cable isn't connected at all underneath (shook loose) or maybe one of the wires got cut by the corner cover - sometimes the cable runs under it and when installed it cuts the wire. That corner cover that hides the steppers is held in by only 2 screws.