gr5

Yes your Y axis clearly lost steps on one layer. It's very unlikely the stepper itself is the problem - they can be at 80C and function fine. The spec says something about 80C - I forget if that's max case temp, or max air temp. Anyway the failure mode is to basically melt. not skip steps. Stepper drivers definitely can skip steps if they get too hot. They are underneath your printer. However this issue is VERY COMMON and 95% of the time the problem is that one of the pulleys needs to have it's set screw tightened. Almost always one of the more difficult pulleys to get to. There are 6 pulleys on the Y axis - 4 on the long belts and 2 on the short belt (I forget but in some cases two of the pulleys are merged into one so maybe 5 pulleys). The ones on the short belt are usually the problem - the one on the motor most likely. You can push the head around until you can see the set screw and get a long hex screwdriver into there. Or worst case you have to remove the cover (only two screws need removing to remove the rear corner cover). Tighten the hell out of these! So tight that the tool is twisting. So tight that if you use and hold an L shaped allen wrench by the short end your fingers hurt. A lot. If you don't believe me mark the motor shaft and pulley with a sharpie. Same with the other pulley on the short belt. See if it moves the next time you get lost Y steps.

The first thing to check is to look at the model in "xray" mode to see if there is any red color near "layer 74". If so then your model isn't manifold. Even if you see no red I would try sending the model through the netfabb free repair service (you have to create an account but it's quick and free). netfabb free repair service is here: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Did you create this model? If so what cad software did you use? There's lots of ways to make sure your model is manifold in the future. In particular sketchup is really bad at making manifold models but there are lots of great tools and tricks to overcome it's limitations.

Please show a photo of these problem empty spots.

@Oscar Vera - if you are going to post in english you should really start a new topic. ER15 can be seen here: http://ultimaker.com/ER15 It's normally not a serious error - it implies that the heater can't keep up with the amount of heat desired. For example if you set the temperature too high, or if you don't have the silicone white part at the base of your print head (I removed that once and got an ER15 when the fans came on and the colder air got inside the print head). ER13 and ER12 are much more serious and usually they mean the temperature sensor on the print core is broken. You can get ER15 mixed in with ER12 and ER13 sometimes. Were you printing with a very high volume of filament? For example, 0.8mm core, 0.4mm layers, 100mm/sec - that would be very high volume and might be difficult for your core to keep up with and *might* get an ER15. One solution would be to slow down. There are other solutions. Getting an ER15 at 300C sounds normal to me. Please start a new topic in the english section. Please explain more issues you have been having with your printer.

Layer adhesion is basically never going to be an issue with PLA. Using the max fan that 99% of the printers out there are capable of will not be enough to cause layer adhesion issues. However with higher softening-temp materials you definitely need to reduce the fan. Such as ABS, Nylon. Pretty much anything but PLA needs less fan. Typically 3% to 5% is good on non pla materials on the UM3 depending on the material (these are fan speeds for the UM3 which doesn't start slowing down until around 8% and for normal printers you want 30% to 50% fan speed typically for non-pla).

Harás mucho mejor para publicar en inglés en otra publicación. Sander en este foro, que es un empleado de Ultimaker, necesita saber qué revendedores no ofrecen un buen servicio y Sander desea hablar con usted. No creo que sepa español. Creo que solo habla inglés y holandés. También deberías explicar tu problema. Es posible que pueda solucionarlo usted mismo con los consejos de este foro, especialmente si publica su problema en inglés e incluye fotos. Perdón por mi español - Usé el traductor de google. @SandervG - this guy is having trouble with his reseller.

Some filaments are worse than others for stringing. The "worse" filaments need a lower printing temperature. Although you might not be retracting. You have so many "islands" on a given layer that there are probably 100 retractions on each layer. Too many retractions on the same spot of filament can cause a grinding failure so Cura tries to be careful and limit that. If you remove that limitation (it's maximum retraction count and minimum extrusion distance window) you may get a failure. Or you might not. I found 10 retractions on the same spot is pretty safe. 20 is pushing it. 40 consistently causes failure. But every printer is different. Even among the same model of printer. It depends on other things as well like how fast you are printing (how high the pressure is in the print head which affects how hard the extruder is pushing on the filament).

I thought about it some more. Maybe each layer isn't sticking to the layer below. That would explain a lot. Try to level the bed again. Maybe you should clean the glass off in a sink and then apply a very thin layer of PVA glue - for example glue stick and then take a wet tissue and spread the glue around. Oils on one spot of the glass or a lower spot of glass may result in part of the first layer not sticking and then it never recovered.

That looks like underextrusion to me. Massive underextrusion - like you are only getting half as much filament out through the nozzle as desired. Is it possible you accidentally tried to print this with a 0.4mm nozzle? As that would explain everything. Your settings look fine. You dont' show how many walls in settings but I can see 3 walls in the print so with a shell width of 2.1 and 3 passes that averages 0.7mm per pass which is < 0.8mm which is fine and 0.2mm layer height is fine with a 0.8 nozzle and your speed of 50mm/sec is quite doable (50mm/sec * 0.2mm height * 0.7mm width is 7 cubic mm per second which is very easy even with a non-plus ultimaker 2. With the plus it's very easy with a 0.8mm nozzle (hard with a 0.4 though!). Well something is seriously wrong. I still like my 0.4mm nozzle theory. Or maybe you are printing non-pla filament but at pla temperatures. The strange thing is that the top layer infill looks fine - only the shells look bad. Are they supported underneath? They should be identical on every layer. I guess I'd like to see more settings - I want to see inner/outer and infill line widths. I want to see qty of walls (it sure looks like 3).

So your Y axis is losing steps. 90% of the time that is caused by a loose pulley - there are 6 pulleys for the Y axis. 2 on the motor and 4 on the long belts. Tighten them all although usually it's the one on the motor or the other one on the short belt just above the motor. Those are hardest to get to but you can push the head around with your hand until the set screw is favorable/visible. Tighten the hell out of those set screws. I mean torque it so hard you think you might break the screwdriver. If you use an L shaped allen wrench and you grip the short base of the L then your fingers should really hurt afterwards. If you don't believe me you can remove the cover (2 screws) and mark the shaft and pulley with a sharpie) and then start another print and stop when it slips and check the marks.

On right side of Cura, next to "print setup" make sure "Custom" is selected (versus "Recommended"). Then two lines down in the "search" box type "temp". If you don't see any temperatures then Cura thinks the temperature is controlled on the printer only. That is the case for example with the Ultimaker 2. So if there are no temperatures the next step is at the top right corner there is a black box with your printer type, click that drop down and then "manage printers". Not sure what to do at that point.

Yeah the on board "disk" is bad. I don't think there exists a bootable SD version of the UM firmware but someone from UM might answer. @ghostkeeper?

Turn the fans on from the menu. Set all 3 heaters to a temperature above what they currently are (at least 20C) so they are all on full. Then home the x,y axes. That moves everything but the extruder (the Z doesn't move much during a print). Anyway I saw your video. Unless you have a loose cable, it's the power brick. This is common enough that I've seen this 3 times on the forum even just in the last 3 months and replacing the brick always fixes it. You should be able to get a replacement for free from your reseller. Or you can just buy one. If you buy one I recommend this without the "T". "GS" I like better than "GST". GST is more efficient but GS has a larger margin. In other words the GS one can put out more power. But the GST one should work fine with your printer - you just need a new one. Any power supply that puts out 24V and 10A (or more than 10A) will work fine but in that case you would need to cut the power cable and do some soldering. Meanwell power supplies. GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B

That sounds very serious. It sounds like it can't read the boot partition at all. I'd try the recovery micro sd card but if that doesn't work you'll need a new linux board (the smaller red board).

@fbrc8-erin - note that these seem to be common.

First make really really sure your power cable isn't loose. There is a cylindrical clip thing on the outside of the plug. The cord should not come out unless you slide that back - make sure it's completely latched into the printer and also make sure the AC cord is firmly in the power brick. If that is all fine then it's 90% the power brick. They shut down very briefly if they think too much power is being drawn and the power failure is only milliseconds so it looks just like a reboot but it's really a power glitch. Contact your reseller about getting a new power brick.

Well you aren't getting enough cooling on the tip of that tiny cone. So I strongly suggest you print 3 of these and lay them along the X axis so the ones not being printed on get more fan. Then after you print those, measure the middle one and any errors remaining you can probably fix by adjusting in cad. note that all manufacturing techniques need some compensation in the design including injection molding (for example if you want 90 degree corners you have to compensate the angle).

You are the second person to post about this this week. This might be a new bug but if so I'm wondering why only 2 people mention it among many thousands. So you are doing a dual print? PLA and PVA? Could you please check *all* the temperatures for extruder 1 in your cura profile? Near the top of the profile type "temp" in the search box. Show us a screen shot please. Your screen shot looks normal by the way. It looks like its printing the pva in the photo and while extruder 2 is printing the pva, extruder 1 is supposed to be at the idle temperature which I assume is supposed to be 100C.

That sounds very familiar. I think you have the black feeder on your ultimaker and it's skipping backwards. Watch the feeder while this noise happens - you should see it jerk back. It's not going to damage your printer. The problem is you might get some underextrusion for a few seconds afterwards. If so you can fix this whole problem by moving the bed a little farther from the glass so you aren't squishing so much. I'm not a big fan of that solution because then the part won't stick as well. You could also raise the temp a bit on the bottom layer. Or get a more powerful feeder (like the meduza feeder ($19 USD in my store in USA/canada - thegr5store.com), the bondtech feeder (much more than $100), or the plus upgrade from ultimaker (around $400 I think USD). Or you could make the bottom layer 0.1mm thick instead of the default which is around .3mm thick. That's a good option as well.

Yeah that's normal. If you want to reduce the pauses then increase the acceleration (and maybe speed) of your retraction. How far do you retract? Typically 1mm for head mounted feeder and 5mm for bowden printers. If you can double the acceleration on the stepper then you can shorten that pause quite a bit. I've gotten it so fast the retraction is basically just a click.

You mean it cools down? What do you mean it "stops". Do you mean the feeder (the cold end) stops? Maybe you should show a 5 second video of what you are talking about because I'm not following your description. Also please post what kind of printer this is (it's okay if it's not an Ultimaker).

This is a complicated topic because you have 2 extruders each with several temperatures. I'm guessing extruder 1 was set to it's "idle" temp. It's bad to keep the inactive extruder hot because it will leak and some filaments (ABS, PVA) will caramelize into a horrible clogging gunk. So let it print a little further and see what ext 1 temp is when it starts printing. Also look at *all* the extruder 1 temperatures - there are several. Just type "temp" in that little box above where it says "quality" and it will show the hidden temperature settings.

No. I'm more curious if your "plus" feeder got worn out due to abrasive filaments. It's pretty tough being steel and all but the bondtech is hardened steel. Much much harder material. Not sure if CF can damage the UM feeder or not. Just very curious. Do you have the old feeder? Could you touch the pyramidal points on the gnurled feeder and see if they seem at all dull? Maybe even just regular old PLA can make the points duller? I don't know but it seems unlikely.

I'm just curious if you ever printed with CF, glowfill, metal fill, or other abrasive filaments before you made the switch.

Or even better, most (all?) cad programs that let you export to STL also let you choose the units. Just tell your cad program that the STL file should be in mm and it should do the conversion for you. And in my experience you never have to set this up again (the cad program should remember what units you want the STL in).