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There never used to be a "line width" in cura. It used to be called "nozzle width" but it was confusing in cura 15.* because if nozzle with was .4 but you selected 1mm shell it would cheat and overextrude 2 .5mm wide lines. The new cura is more straight forward - you set the line width to the nozzle width. What makes you think the flow is too high? Is this only on the bottom layer or all layers that it seems to be overextruding? Maybe a photo would help.

Oh wow. That is bad. Did you enable support? You don't need support for this print. I hope you enabled support because if not I do't know what is going on under his hands. It looks like a combination of underextrusion and support in places not needed. And bad overhangs. Is this PLA or ABS? It looks like ABS printed with PLA settings. What was your layer height, print speed, temperature, material, nozzle diameter, and line width in cura?

I agree with sander. Don't relevel - just turn the 3 screws 1/2 turn CCW to move the glass closer to the nozzle and try again.

Make sure the print cores are shoved in all the way at the top. sometimes they click at the bottom but not the top. More likely the wiring where it comes into the top of the head is pulling upward too much. You want to push those wires down into the head better. I have no idea how this is done - just repeating advice I hear from experts several times that has worked for many people. Also they say to put tape around the wiring to make it tighter so it doesn't slide up again.

If that doesn't work - always consider playing during the print. Go into the TUNE menu and try 50% speed for a few layers to see if it looks better. If so slowly increase the speed until you see the quality change. You can also mess with temperature.

short answer - printed part won't be brittle. I've heard some people say it has to do with "micro fractures". Also when the filament gets brittle it's only the 1 meter or so that has been straightened. Something about straightening filament and holding it in that position for 10 hours makes it very brittle.

If it's the heated bed from 3dsolex then I recommend the latest tinker Marlin here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Make sure to fill out the heater budget settings. The total budget should be 60W, the heater is 60W and the nozzle is probably 35W. If you don't fill these out properly you can either overload the power supply which will fail a print part way through. Or you could have trouble getting the bed up to temperature if you error in the other direction.

In cura 2.* and cura 3.* you instead set the "line width". There is a big learning curve for cura 3.*. You might want to stick with cura 15.* but there are a few pretty amazing features in the latest cura once you learn everything.

What folder did you look in? did you find lots of other json files?

I would set shell to 1.2mm as a single pass usually doesn't work well. However I don't think that's your issue. Below is my standard underextrusion causes list. Look it over - something might stand out like if you changed the fan shroud, printed with CF or if it's been getting bad slowly it's probably #3. I can safely say #1,#2 are not your issue. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem.

Both sizes are available I think but you may have to look around. Lots of googling. UM3 nozzle can go to 350C. You probably want 360C. More importantly the heated bed won't go above around 110C I think and you probably need 150C. Plus you need to enclose the printer. The cores can go above 350C in theory (they should be fine up to 400C) but the head itself is not rated for that. The solder on the circuit board in there probably melts at 200C. I don't know what is in there that restricts the max temp but I would be a bit surprised if it coudn't take 400C. But if UM says the head can't go above 350C then that makes me nervous. You want your air temp up around 60C if possible. Any of these things (printing at 360C, air temp at 60C) might violate your warranties. You might want to just get a UM2 or UMO+. The UMO is great in that it's very easy to move the motors outside the printer - no hardware needed, no drilling - they just mount either way. I don't think there is any simple solution. Any solution will require firmware changes and purchase of a heater and an enclosure and probably heat sinks and fans for the steppers.

When I am doing this kind of thing I am often doing: G92 E0 Which tells the E axis that wherever it thought the E axis was - ignore it. It's not at 0. You can do this with non zero values and other axes but I only do it for the E axis.

Minutes ago someone just told me you should push the wires further down into the head and then to also put some tape around them so there is a tighter fit and they don't slide up again.

I've had many emails with Rajil and he is very handy and competent and you shouldn't underestimate him. What is wrong with having two heads in the two corners? Was that a bad design for some reason?

Well in your video the entire outer line was too far from the glass. Did you try leveling with the nozzle touching the glass? If you did and the far right corner is still bad then it's almost certainly the glass. Check it with a ruler or a straight edge. Try different angles. I fixed mine by bending the bed up in the rear corners very hard but that was foolish of me because I could have broken the heated bed circuit board. I forget that was under the aluminum. If your glass is more than .2mm lower in that corner then I would insist on getting a replacement from your reseller. This is a known problem -- there is some variation these glass plates and some are worse than others.

That's called the wipe tower. You can disable that if you want. It can make for a slightly better quality print but usually you don't need it. Also I think it works better if you move it to the rear center - less likely to fall over in the center where the glass is usually higher/thicker.

You should contact your reseller. I think some wire is loose in the head maybe or the connection is too high or too low and not making good contact with the temp sensor.

Good video. The main issue I think is the paper is too thick. If you watched my video I actually use no paper at all and level touching the glass. In your video it is doing exactly what I see when leveling too high. I think that's all you need to do. In fact, skip the leveling procedure now and just rotate the 3 screws the same amount CCW to move the bed up. Go up about a half turn. You want some good squish. Maybe a full turn will be needed. Without good squish the part will look fine until it gets up about a cm and then start pulling off the bed on the corners. I really think that's the only issue but it's possible your glass is also not very flat. This is tempered glass (for no good reason as far as I can tell) and tempered glass process leaves the glass higher in the center. When you do the leveling you tilt this mini-mountain so the front corners are fine and the rear center is fine but the rear corners are quite low. You can test all this with a ruler or straight edge. You can correct by inserting washers under the corners of the glass or buying neoceram glass but really I don't think this is the main issue.

Did you mess with jerk or acceleration settings on your UM2. It's possible they are too high. But more likely the problem is a loose set screw. I know you probably already tightened your set screws but not enough. You have to tighten the hell out of them. If you use an L shaped allen wrench your fingers should HURT after. You may need a break to save your fingers between each tightening. The problem is most likely on the shortest belt - the one on the motor or the other end. These are also the hardest to get to. If you don't believe me and want to prove me wrong, use a sharpie (permanent marker) and mark the shaft and the pulley. You'll see after a print like this it will have moved enough to know which pulley was the problem one. It's not surprising at all that the problem starts at a certain height. The accelerations involved to get this to slip are complex and will only repeat with certain geometries. There is also a chance you messed with acceleration. The defaults should be 5000mm/sec/sec for x and y acceleration and 20 m/sec for jerk. If you have tinkergnome you can look at them directly I think. Or if you don't you can download pronterface and connect to UM2 through USB and pronterface reads back these values when it first connects. There are also gcodes to use through pronterface to adjust these settings. You could lower jerk to 10 and acceleration to 1000 but that will just mask the problem. It's also possible there is something wrong with the current setting. It should be around 1000ma for X and Y stepper. Again tinker marlin can check this or pronterface. But I doubt you messed with this. MUCH MORE LIKELY IT'S A PULLEY SET SCREW.

IF THE FORUM TAKES A LONG TIME TO LOAD... This is happening to people with roughly 1000 posts and higher. It is searching through your personal database of posts apparently. For some reason. For me of course it's not just slow - it never loads as I have way more than 1000 posts. The workaround is to not enter the forum the way you usually do it. Find a new way. Personally I have a direct link. Another work around mentioned above is to logout, then go to forum, find a topic, then log back in. Not recommended. Another workaround is to wait for the new forum. I agree that IRC is a good thing to make VERY PROMINENT during the 3 day (or more) transition. The page that announces the forum is down should also have a link to the IRC channel with instructions.

Most of the pictures survived the previous migration. For example this ancient topic from the old forum: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs The first few photos are hosted externally but the first black and white photo with cubes taken from "above" (not the first bw photo - the second bw photo) was hosted by Ultimaker with the normal upload method. There were definitely some pictures that got lost but I forget which type. Certainly photos that are to temporary image hosting sites such as imgur are not safe but that's not Ultimaker's fault. Or do you think they should copy the photos and host the pictures themselves?

Above youtube video doesn't show. It doesn't work. If it works for you then you must have made it private. Please try again. A video would really help. I do the leveling procedure in this video here - about 3m 18 sec I show some leveling techniques. Somewhere in the first 6 minutes I show how to do the leveling wizard for UM2 and it's identical for UM3.

There are many things in a model that can cause this but in this case it's obvious: your walls are too thin. Try setting line width in cura to small values just to prove that is the problem. Start with .2mm line width and if the walls appear start increasing. If the walls are still missing start decreasing. I recommend walls at least .8mm thick.

It's almost certainly the mosfet chip that turns the heater on and off - it's stuck on and needs to be replaced.

What I see in this photo is common when you have a spot where the glass is too far from the nozzle. Just forget about the leveling procedure and instead turn the 3 leveling screws an equal amount counter clockwise to move the glass up closer to the nozzle. Turn by about 1/2 turn. more details here: