gr5

If you ask 3dsolex.com nicely they will sell you a 1.75mm core. He has one but needs someone to test it out. Maybe you could get one for a discount.

Oh - of course. I have fixed about 100 cables (25 tl smoothers) already. Not sure why they can't find cheap Chinese labor to do this as they are made in China. But I only ship to usa/canada/mexico.

Knocking/scratching is unrelated to leveling. Unless it's happening on the bottom 2 layers. By the time you get to the 3rd layer (or usually even the second layer) leveling doesn't matter anymore because no matter how wavy/warped/unlevel the bed is, if the first layer stuck down it was smoothed level by the extrusion process. knocking/scratching of one nozzle into the filament of the *other* nozzle could definitely be leveling related at the end where you calibrate the difference in height between the 2 cores. But usually this is caused on the leading edges (and especially corners) of overhangs. It's a complicated process but the filament comes out and cools rapidly while still liquie (in milliseconds) and is like snot/mucus - like a liquid rubber band. On overhangs it is pulling inward and there isn't enough material on the layer below to cool and harden it while still being held down by the nozzle so it pulls inward a bit especially on the corners. This creates a raised lip or raised edge. The nozzle can hit this. This is common. This is normal. More fan helps a bit but you are probably at full fan. The best fix is to make the parts stick like hell or don't do any overhangs, lol). If you can't pick up your whole UM3 by a tiny 2cm part (like the UM robot) then you aren't doing it right and watch the video again as you missed some detail. Regarding this "oozing" ball of filament - isn't that in the front left corner now (cura 3.*)? You mean before the print starts and it is priming the nozzle? I'm guessing you need to clean the glass there and reapply pva glue. Or you might have messed with settings like glass temp. I don't quite understand this issue - maybe you could post a 10 second video?

This kind of thing is usually a video driver issue. When it breaks again due to some other windows upgrade, try upgrading to the latest video drivers.

It's not only possible you have done it many times I'm sure. You run the leveling wizard. It makes you go through this process - the first have you are supposed to have the nozzle 1mm from the glass. Then it goes to the back center and you level by spinning the electronic control wheel. Then you level the front 2 corners by spinning the leveling screws. THEN it always has you level the second nozzle/core as well as the last step. At that point it is storing the z offset between the 2 different nozzles/cores. If you level the first nozzle with paper but skip the paper for the second nozzle then the z offset will have the second nozzle always a bit low and it will tend to crash into your model a bit but also squish that pva in better (asuming you put pva in second core). There should be some happy medium between not hitting the part but still squishing the pva nicely. Even better it would be good if when printing pva over pla Cura automatically over extrudes by maybe 50%.

What do you mean by "warping"? Do you mean the edge lifts off the glass? You should call that lifting because there are many things that people call "warping" and I get confused by all of them. I'm guessing colder air temperatures are somehow causing this (or lower humidity?) but I don't know why that would cause this issue. I would put a cover on the front of the printer - try just some plastic and blue tape. To see if that helps and go back up to 55C. To get parts to stick like hell here are all the techniques and how to do them well:

Did you get that Z error fixed? It's usually caused by something falling in the hole where the z limit switch is located. If you raise the bed by hand with power off and look under it there is a screw sticking down. That fits into a hole. Make sure that hole is clean.

Do you have a multimeter? Are you good with circuits or do you have a friend who is? I would disconnect the wires from the board underneath the printer and connect them to a multimeter and then push the switch by hand. It should be open normally and shorted/closed when you push/click the switch. The failure could be the switch itself but most likely the connection under the insulation at the switch. After making sure it's broken with the first test I would unscrew the switch and then remove the insulation over the contacts and test the switch at the contacts. If it fails there then it's the switch (this is unliekly). If it works there then it's the wires - replace both wires. If it works all the way to the circuit board then reconnect the wires one more time and make sure it's still broken (home one more time). If it still fails then it's the PCB. Very unlikely but possible. Once you know what's broken you can get a new one. Alternatively you could send the whole printer back to your reseller. I don't recommend this as this is a longer/slower solution.

I printed some stuff with meltink filament (out of Florida, USA). It did well in my stringing test, bridging test and overhang test - almost prints horizontal as you can see (those 3 overhang tests printed simultaneously - zero stringing cleanup or any cleanup done on any of these parts). I'd say it's as good as colorfabb or utlimaker filament. But the colors! I love this color. Gorgeous. https://www.meltink3d.com/

It depends on the printer. For UMO I think you just rotate the control from the main menu. On UM2 and UM3 you go into the tune menu. There should be a setting called feedrate or speed. Something like that. It defaults to 100 (100%). Change it to e.g. 50 and you'll hear the printer slow down to half speed. You can go up to I think 500%. But this is the *goal* speed. If the line segments are very short it might not be able to reach the goal speed. Also printers have a max speed. For UM machines that is 300mm/sec.

it's never too close! just kidding. But there is some truth to that. How do you know it was too close? I like it to squish like crazy. So 1:09 into this video I have a visual guide to various squishing of filament for bottom layer. At 3:42 I show how I level live as it prints the bottom layer. at 4:50 I show you how I recommend you level a UM2 or UM3 - it's identical except for the UM3 has a second nozzle to level.

The patent ran out in 2016. And what was patented was having a heated build volume but with all the servos *outside* of that volume so they don't overheat.

Someone may answer you here but you might get faster results on the solidworks forums or with google search.

The horrible sound is indeed an unpleasant sound but it will not damage your printer. The problem is with your Y axis. It's somehow not hitting the limit switch. There are many possibilities. The most likely is that the thin rod that goes through the print head left to right is not sticking far enough out to the left to hit the limit switch. The limit switch is on the left wall of the printer. Try to find it visually. push the head to the back of the printer and you should hear a quiet "click" if it is working (except that it is not). There are a few other possibilities - the switch could have a broken wire. The wire could be pinched under the left rear stepper cover - the white piece of metal. Or it even may have fallen out of the PCB. But most likely the limit switch is not being hit. You might even have to bend the switch a mm or so. Let us know what you find out.

Well you have so many ways to move on I'm not sure where to start. Lets start with the fact that it was able to update so I would think that means it has access to the internet. If from the panel you change it to developer mode and go back to the main screen it will show an ip address at the top. If it can't connect it uses some weird ip address - I think 192.264... which is the kind of failure address. If you have a phone or ipad or laptop you can put the printer into wifi config mode. There are instructions somewhere but basically the printer will be a hot spot. Then you go to your phone/laptop/ipad and look at wifi access points and one will say something about ultimaker. Connect to that, open a browser and you can configure your printer to tell it which network to use, and what the password is for your wifi. Thirdly you can use ethernet cables and just connect directly to your network. I have ethernet wired all over my house so I use that for one of my UM3's and wifi for the other. And finally once you get all this working I recommend you go to your router and set it up so your um3 gets a static ip adress. Meaning the address will never change from here on out. I found that to be a better experience especially since I ssh into my printer a lot.

cura 15.04 is from april of 2015 (2015.04). Cura 2.7 and cura 3.04 and inbetween are all very very similar versions of Cura. So any manual for 2.7 is relevant for 3.04 with minor changes. Don't know what you mean only top to bottom. Cura 3.* has a dual slider so you can see a range of layers including all of them or only some range of layers. Is that what you mean?

The problem is with the cad model unfortunately. It's not manifold I strongly suspect. I recommend passing it through the free netfabb repair web service: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php I think microsoft has an STL repair service as well.

@nzo don't get discouraged because you think a project will be a lot of work. I find that simply spray painting on some automotive primer followed by your favorite color may not be as good as kman's work but you will still likely be pretty happy with it. In other words you can put a small amount of work or a large amount of work and it will make a difference but you will still be glad you did it. So just do it. "shoot first and then..." - I mean just try it - spray paint some model with primer and then a color coat and then maybe even a clear coat. Or if you are patient do the sanding/filling as well.

I think some of you mostly print PLA and the OP mostly prints ABS so that is probably part of the major difference in opinion. UM engineers mostly print PLA so the printer is really tuned better for that. Also it took me a long time to get the temperature just right for ABS and I got burned many times for printing too hot or too cold but the UM3 for some reason seems to heat the filament much warmer so you need to lower the temp a lot on the UM3 - by something like 15C versus the UM2. Also the fan speeds on my UM3 are bizarre. 15% and 100% are both full on. For ABS I like 3%. I doubt S3D would recommend 3% fan speeds but that's what you need for ABS. Anything over 5% fan speed on the UM3 is a tornado.

I didn't think you could. I was just saying you can at least have it default to favorable values for that printer. That's cool!

Nylon is tricky to get it to stick well. I suggest you never leave nylon overnight until you have done 100 prints with it. Here are tricks to get parts to stick like hell to the glass:

The heater should be between 20W and 40W depending where it came from and how old the printer is. Most older UM2's have 20W to 25W and the UM2+ I think might be 30W if I remember right. 40W is the lowest ohms you should see which is 14.4 ohms. 1.2 ohms is indeed broken and should be replaced. You can get blocks from shop3d.ca in canada. I'm pretty sure they can sell you a heater also. Or you can get those things from my store (thegr5store.com) but those parts will take about 10 days to get to Canada.

Marlin disables the E axis when the nozzle is below a certain temperature (I think typically 170C). You can disable this feature temporarily with the gcode: M302 Or you can simply heat up the nozzle to 180C.

There is a feature, "horizontal expansion" that can be negative. If positive it makes the part bigger on the outer dimensions but also makes the holes smaller. You could combine an overall scaling of the part with horizontal expansion to control just outer dimensions, just inner dimensions or any combination of the two. However, I wonder why your outer dimensions are typically .2mm too big. That is VERY unusual. Usually if anything the part is a bit small. Unless you are counting the very first layer? You can control horizontal expansion on the first layer only. In fact I usually set that to negative half the nozzle diameter or typically -.2mm. If you mean the entire part is too big then I suspect you don't have a UM and you need to calibrate your X and Y axes more carefully.

Lots of people buy the 3dsolex cores. Note that when the UM2 came out it only had the .4mm which was integrated nozzle/heater block in one part. Ultimaker sold an incredible amount of UM2's before the Olsson block came out which allowed swappable nozzles. Even I, as a UMO and UM2 owner was pretty satisfied with only the .4mm nozzle for a few years (now I use the .8 quite a bit).