gr5

PLA will stick to cold glass but not very well at all. And if you start on hot glass and let it cool the part pops off as glass and PLA have different thermal expansion rates. So if you are going to do this much I recommend you put blue painter's tape on your glass and relevel. Also it's critical that you wipe the blue tape with alcohol to clean off the waxy surface - otherwise parts won't stick well to blue tape either.

>I'll upload a photo of it if I take the head apart again. That won't help. You have to squeeze it while passing filament through it to see if it grips the filament. It's subtle unless you've played with many of these teflon parts. Since you don't have the olsson block installed I'm going to raise the probability that your nozzle just has gunk in it (but extremely thin layer) and putting in a new nozzle will bring you back to "good as new". Or if you order anything from my store I send out a free nozzle cleaner that I find does wonders if you rub it around in the tip of a working nozzle for 10 seconds. You may also already have a spare teflon part. If so - don't buy anything - just put in the block and the new teflon part. > Kind of weird that this is the default "Fast" setting in quickprint I agree. I've never used any of those. I think the people who created those didn't do thorough research on them but who knows. Remember this is cura 15.04.X which is over a year old now - well there have been some bug fixes but basically it's a year old (april 2015 = 15.04). Check out the "quick print" settings in the latest cura from this month - the beta one - I don't even know if it has quickprint.

The UM circuit boards can handle a million watts - it will only draw what it needs. It's the other end - the heater - that you should worry about in this case. The heater I sell is only 60 watts but the same board works fine with 100 watt heaters so no worries. So with my 60W heated bed kit you probably want about 60W of additional power going to the um2go or 2 amps more power than the existing um2go power supply. This all assumes you can find some firmware somewhere that allows you to use the heated bed with the um2go. The only firmware I know of is my custom firmware that limits power to the bed and nozzle so you can use the existing um2go power brick. But someone might create for you a special version. Maybe tinkerGnome. Anyway if you get such a special firmware please let me know so I can give it to other people who ask for it. I mean really my kit with my custom firmware works great and heats up faster than the UM2. But if you want even faster, yes you could get a more powerful power supply and try to locate the appropriate firmware.

Try changing USB cables or adding a USB hub or using a different computer to drive the USB signal (are you using raspberry pi?)

Very nice! Especially the paint job on the face. The resolution of the video could be better - please post a few photographs here and hopefully you will get "featured print" - upload the photographs by clicking "upload 3D print" on the top of *any* page in this forum. It will end up here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/

It might be a fan hitting a wire?

acreus can you please mark what country you are in for your user settings and also what printer(s) you have. Please.

q-tip might leave a string in there. I dont' recommend it. Do you have the Olsson block? I recommend that as then you can just unscrew the nozzle and clean it or replace ti for a quick test. The "tock" or "nock" or whaver sound from the feeder has nothing to do with tension. It is a skip back on the stepper motor because it can only push so hard - about 10 pounds pressure which is a ton - more than I can push manually without breaking the filament. Enough to pick the printer right up off the table. I suspect you need to change your white teflon part. Even though you said it looks fine I'm pretty sure it's been softened after those 100 hours of printing. The new teflon parts aren't white -they are white but transluscent. You can kind of see through them. The new ones can handle much higher temperatures so you probably won't have to change the new one. I recommend you get the Olsson block and the teflon piece and a .6mm or .8mm nozzle all at the same time. You can get all that at Erin's store (fbrc8) or you can get it from me (gr5.org/store/). Indeed the overall speed is ignored if you set all those other speeds - I have all but the travel speed blank so that it defaults to the primary speed. Or you can set them to zero which defaults to the speed on the basic tab. 100mm/sec with .15 layers and .4 nozzle multiplies out to 6mm^3/sec. The UM2 printers are usually tested at 8mm^3/sec at 230C. At 210C it shouldn't be able to do that fast - you are above the nominal capabilities of your printer (but some printers can do it) so either slow ti down (my recommendation) or make the layer's thinner or go up to 230C (240C is great for fast - low quality - printing but don't go above that). In cura if you hover over the speed or layer height it tells you the cubic volume per second so you can keep it under 4 (I recommend under 4mm^3/sec). If you are in a rush get a .8mm nozzle - that can go 4x fast (16mm^3/sec) no problem - even faster if you want low quality.

Everything above is great but I would also recommend getting pronterface and haveing that be the first software you use to calibrate steppers, switches, and so on. It monitors stuff like that live through USB and you can adjust steps/mm and move the stepper just 2mm to begin with and do calibration and do all that without having to home any axes and test the limits without having to power up the servos: Get pronterface here. It's free: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

60C. Wait for it to cool. Once the glass is at room temp it should take very little force (if any) to remove the part. What they said above. I use glue always. If I don't occasionally a print doesn't stick and the print is ruined. That hasn't happened in over a year I think. But thin out your glue - use a wet tissue to spread the glue around much thinner so the bottom doesn't have that bump. The top of your part looks pretty good. It's hard to get rid of travel marks. If it's super important you can uncheck "combing" under retraction settings and it will get rid of most travel marks on the top and bottom layers. But it can add stringing (little strings in the air that breach sections of the part) depending on the part shape (won't hurt the part in photograph above).

Get tinker Marlin. It lets you resume a failed print. I think it even keeps track of the layer that you quit on but perhaps only if you do a regular abort sequence. There are many other great reasons to get tinkerMarlin and no reasons not to (there's no learning curve): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Je suis désolé de google translate. Regardez en haut de votre imprimante et assurez-vous que les 2 tiges en passant par la tête sont perpendiculaires. Espérons que tout ce que vous avez à faire est desserrer les vis de réglage sur les poulies et faire les barres perpendiculaires. Cependant, parfois, quand une imprimante est livrée, la compagnie maritime met une pression suffisante sur l'imprimante pour plier tout le dessus de l'imprimante dans un parallélogramme. Pour corriger cela desserrer toutes les vis qui maintiennent le châssis ensemble et repousser pendant que quelqu'un se resserre à nouveau les vis.

Hi @SandervG. Microstepping is very complicated even for an electrical engineer like myself. You have 2 sine waves going to the different halves of the stepper and they are phase shifted but for some reason I don't understand the amount of current going to each half is different and changes as the phase changes. Because the current/power is changing evidently some of the step positions are using less current - so low that it's not enough power to move the stepper that additional microstep. This is what I read but doesn't agree with other information I read about how it all works. Anyway then what happens is on the 17th step the power is back up and finally the stepper moves again. As a result only 14 or 15 of the 16 microsteps actually work and when you hit those "weak" steps you get a bump in the part (the zebra stripes). Of course the bump is so tiny it's hard to see on a low quality printer. But if you have almost (but not quite) vertical walls you can see the bumps as lines.

Can you post the schematic changes? I'm more interested electronically in what you did than physically how to do it myself.

This is fascinating. I sent referred your post to the hardware engineer who designed the PCB for the UM2.

Much too late. :( It would have been good if someone said so (that you were at nxp booth). Guys realize that there are over 100,000 people at this event and thousands of booths and there's no way to see every booth in the 3 days that the event is there. You will always miss something. I spent many hours looking around and never noticed raise3d.

Go to 3dhubs.com and put in an order for a small test print from a hub and specify an ultimaker2+ and ask to if you can pick it up in person so you can see the printer and talk to the owner. You should be able to do all this for 10€ if you pick something small. At 3dhubs you put in your city and you specify ultimaker and it locates the nearest hubs with that printer for you. The quality from the 2+ is pretty much the same as the UM2 and UMO so you should consider picking one of those as a second choice if it's a more convenient location.

@labern - did you set the laser to the max power with jumpers (where they say you can't run it for very long at all) and then control the pwm and mostly use it at lower power? If so what is your max fan-pwm setting for continuous use (out of 255)?

Well the 2go power supply is significantly cheaper (and less power) than the other UM2 printers so you need to do special stuff to get it to work. But 3dsolex has a heated bed kit for the um2go for roughly 99€ (didn't check price). not sure what you mean by "2go version". Are you referring to the "plus" upgrade?

Most likely you are levelled a bit too high off the glass. Try turning the 3 leveling knobs a full turn counter clockwise while printing your next part to see if that helps.

You should not modify cura but instead use a cura plugin. Look at the source code for "tweak at z" to start out - you can use some of this code and then modify it.

Try printing much slower. I think it's the fact that it stops and has nothing to do with the .5mm move nor the retraction. I've seen those bumps and slowing to down to 35mm/sec or even 25mm/sec makes a huge difference. Usually I can make them disappear completely.

Just install it. It has all the existing features of Marlin but with more features. There's no training needed. If you know what PRINT means on regular marlin - it's the same on tinker Marlin.

Raise3d isn't at makerfaire.

.3mm bottom layer is much easier than thinner as your accuracy doesn't have to be so close so for beginners (< 30 prints) I recommend you stick with .3mm first layer.