gr5

Wow. I'm going to look into this for sure. On my list. I haven't had this problem on my UMO so I may have a different version than you. It basically implies Ki=1 if you are correct.

I emailed a link to this thread to the hardware guy who actually designed the PCB.

It's supposed to home in the rear left corner. One of the wires to the Y servo could be backwards. If so it would beg the question of how they actually tested your machine before shipping but I'd check that first as it is easy - check that the wire colors on the connectors of X and Y are the same. Actually if it's just the wires crossed then the second video makes sense and if they weren't paying attention it would just print the part just fine but mirror image. Also check that the Y limit switch is connected to the correct spot. I have seen many similar problems but this one is unique for me. You should also immediately contact support.ultimaker.com. Note that the "slamming into " behavior happens occasionally and the printer is strong enough that it can handle this just fine. But of course it usually only happens if a limit switch is not being triggered properly (but the limit switch is in the back! - it's supposed to home in the back!).

There is a common tool in the hardware store Arjan that will take that out. It is a cone shaped reverse threaded drill bit - you select the right size, put it in a drill and stick it in the hole and rotate the drill be counter clockwise - it takes things like that right out.

Ultimaker will send you a new zscrew (and probably stepper also) if it's bad. But first make sure. Print a few things and see if the lines are at the exact same height. Also with power off try pushing the bed up and down past this area. This photo is not good enough to see if there is less plastic in this area, more plastic, or plastic sticking in or out or what. It just looks - well - lighter. Try using a cell phone camera - they tend to be able to get very close and clear photos.

"printing platform" is fine. But is also known as "bed". 14.06.01 still has some bugs - you might want to use the next older version.

Doesn't the 1.5.7 board also have a 12V line? I'm pretty sure it does. I think the "bottom" fan on the UMO is 12V. The colors don't matter. The cables should have 4 wires twisted into to bundles of 2 wires. Each bundle corresponds to a coil inside the stepper. Wire it up the same way as one of the other motors pairs of twisted wires are. It doesn't matter which pair is which but it matters that you hook up a pair the same way as the other steppers. Is the hot end temperature sensor reporting the correct room temperature (about 20C)? That's the hard part. Getting the heater to work is easy once you get the temperature working.

Oh and keeping the air warm inside the UM2 help with plastics with higher glass temps because they have more shrinkage. So put some plastic on the front of your UM2 and put a printer box (box that holds a ream of paper) on top of the printer such that there is a big air hole where the feeder tube goes into the box. This will warm the air to around 40c to 50C and you will get less shrinkage as you print.

Did you include brim? That's critical. I have never printed PET (I have an unopened spool - I will get to it eventually!). But for ABS and PLA it helps to be above the glass transition temperature because then instead of having the extreme pulling forces lift the part off the bed, instead it gives way ever so slightly. wikipedia says glass temp is 67 to 81C so I'd try 85C bed temp. The 50% fan is a fantastic idea also if only to help layer bonding. Did you use glue stick? Be careful because I've heard that a thin layer of gluestick holds down PET so strongly that it will pull up tiny slivers of glass into the print when you remove it. So I recommend you let the part cool completely to room temperature and don't force it very strongly - if it's hard to remove put it in the freezer for 20 minutes first.

12mm is from bottom of head to end of screw. Basically the threaded part. Don't worry about running out of a screw size as you can get these very easily in most hardware stores. What country do you live in? Pleae update your profile. 99.9% of the screws and nuts in the UMO are 3mm, standard thread (I think standard is .5mm per thread) (versus extra fine thread which is harder to find in stores). Also almost everything has a 2mm hex head. I'm in the USA and they are found in the metric section and usually called "M3" screws (metric 3mm) and they are also called "button head screws" versus countersunk, round head, flat head, etc.

Looking at your photo it could be either underextrusion or just not enough "top" layers. Please post *all* your settings. Particularly interested in: nozzle size, shell width, print speed, infill speed, inner shell speed, top/bottom thickness, layer height, spiralize. Also I need to know your printing temperature. So for example if you set shell width to 0.9 or 0.7 that would explain what I see. Or if you are printnig infill at an extra high speed (causing underextrusion) or if you are printing too cold, or if your layer height is say 0.1mm but your top thickness is only .2mm. More info... Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):20mm/sec at 200C30mm/sec at 210C40mm/sec at 225C50mm/sec at 240CThe printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. So if your temp is 210C, layer height is .2mm and infill speed is 50mm/sec that would explain it your issue also.

No. Don't worry about it.

Make sure you get an open source printer. Ultimaker is one of MANY open source printers. I didn't realize how important it was until after I bought mine. 3dhubs has a fantastic guide on buying 3d printers which are rated by thousands of users. I recommend you look through that. ultimaker can use anyone's filament - some very cheap brands are quite excellent but for the first 10 spools I recommend you get a quality filament so you can realize how important that is. Then if you are printing through a roll every week you can certainly try different cheap options. You are lucky you are in England where they have one of the best filaments out there - faberdashery. Their filament is expensive - this is from their website: http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/arctic-white/ 100 meters is about 840g or 640cc is 24£ So a 8 cm^3 part would be 24*8/640= 30 pence.

I have windows 7 64bit and it works fine for me. It's probably a graphics card/driver issue. I'm guessing that unless/until a few other people have this same issue it probably won't get looked at as there are about 100 other important issues to fix in Cura and unless one of the programmers can duplicate this it will be tough to fix.

Make sure you also change your white teflon isolator. After printing lots of ABS and switching to PLA it seems to cause problems.

Try the new cura! The slicing engine was rewritten - I'm sure it has all new bugs! But god rid of many others.

I played with a beta version of this latest Cura and there were a few bugs related to checkboxes so I suspect this is just another one. I think you should report all this on the issue tracker because programmers love to help other programmers. If Daid sees these bugs he'll probably fix them quickly.

jens please mark what country you live in on your profile settings. The wattage of the heaters that 3dsolex sells vary about +/- 2Watts so if you wanted say a 37W, 3dsolex or certainly I will be happy to search through a batch of them and send you the highest wattage one we can find. These cartridge heaters are always in danger of destroying themselves if you don't remove the heat fast enough.

No. Test one more thing though... the reported temperature - click on MAINTENANCE ADVANCED then go to nozzle temperature and check what the reported temperature is. It should start off around 20C and quickly go up as the nozzle heats up. Do this with the heater inserted as you can destroy the heater within about 10 seconds but inside the aluminum block you have much more time - at least 30 seconds. If the temperature is negative then this *might* explain your problem but I doubt it will be negative. If the temperature looks correct (between 20C and 300c) then... Your circuit board is probably defective. The circuit board uses a part called a FET, specifically I think a MOSFET. That part commonly fails in two possible ways: always on, always off. Yours seems to have failed in the always on mode. This failure is unusual but can happen if you short out the heater briefly - then you have hundreds of watts going through a tiny part and it melts. Contact support.ultimaker.com and explain this and ask for a new PCB. They will most likely send you a new one for free. Alternatively if you have very good soldering skills (with surface mount parts - very tricky!) you could replace the part yourself - the schematics are all available.

One more thing to try - rotate the part by 2 or 3 degrees to see if that goes away. You can rotate by less than 15 degrees if you hold down some key - maybe shift key - I forget (shift/ctrl/alt - one of those).

Wow. Pretty strange. I have a lot to say about this. Well first practical advice: 1) Look at the part in "xray view" (as opposed to slice view or normal view). If there are any red areas then those could be the problem - try to fix in cad settings or play with the "fix horrible" settings. 2) Try the latest slicer that came out a few days ago. It's a completely new rewrite. If this is a bug in cura you have to first verify that the bug exists in the latest cura before the programmer will look at it for you. Now for theories... 1) Make sure all the "fix horrible" boxes are unchecked - they can do weird things. 2) it looks like these lines that stick out start at the right edge of the finger and end where the part goes in more. I'm not sure what the distance is that the hand shape comes "out" but... Some models - particularly "sculpted" models - animals, people, gnomes have way too many polygons that are smaller than the nozzle diameter so Cura has a feature where it discards a few of the "lines". Let me back up to do a slice cura intersects a horizontal plane with all the triangles in the STL file. Those triangles are unordered so Cura has to figure out which go with which after it does the slice - it takes all those lines and tries to connect them. During this step some of the lines are too short and it gets rid of them - I'm thinking this step needs to get rid of fewer lines - it would explain what you see if is was doing counter clockwise pass on those "bad" layers.

This looks like underextrusion. Also I can see your shell is 2 passes and they aren't quite touching - also an underextrusion issue. This can be caused by setting the nozzle width and shell width to values other than .4 and .8 respectively. Alternatively by printing too cold or too fast. Also by the way I recommend 24% infill as values of 25% generate a different pattern that I don't think is as good. I've printed 6 enable hands and 24% is fine. Also make sure your top/bottom thickness is around .6mm (6 X .1 layers or 4 X .15 layers or 3 X .2 layers). If you are still having problems please post *all* your ini file settings. Oh - and I don't recommend raft. Raft is like "last year" (or mabye 4 years ago). Printing directly on glass with brim enabled is much better - you get nicer surface and the problems of parts not sticking to bed have been worked out nicely on glass. Most important for last: Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

First of all - what kind of printer do you have? Please post it in your profile settings. It's fine if it's not an ultimaker since this is a cura question so your topic is relevant. Can you describe what you are talking about please in a drawing? Show the area where 0,0 is on your printer, where the printable area is and so on? There are things you can adjust in "machine settings" but maybe you already tried that? The um2go has a 100x100 printable area but it's offset quite a bit from the home switch because the bed doesn't reach wide enough on the left side. This was fixed in Marlin for um2go.

Sometimes 90C isn't quite hot enough. Usually 90-95C is good for PLA but sometimes I have to go up to 110C. It also depends on the nozzle - the default nozzle I can do at 90C but the older e3dv6 nozzles require higher temperature. I also always do hard and slow such that if I'm stretching the PLA (if it's not quite solid enough) I'll feel that and pause for 4 seconds and then pull some more - these 4 seconds gives the PLA time to get cooler and stronger and not separate from the pla at the tip.

A few things: 1) As far as I can tell ABS is not stronger than PLA. If PLA truly is not strong enough you might want to go with Nylon - I recommend "taulman bridge" but perhaps it is not stiff enough for your needs. It is certainly much stronger. 2) Usually the weakness in ABS comes from bad layer bonding. ABS has much higher "glass temperature" than PLA so it's harder to get the new layer to melt into the lower layers. To get this to happen you need to print slower, thicker, hotter. Everyone disagrees on ABS settings and I'm not an expert but here is what works for me: 2a) almost no fan. The part you show above has absolutely no overhangs so I would do no fan but usually I do 30% fan. 2b) 0.2mm layers. I find that .3mm layers are much too weak due to "beading" and 0.05mm layers can be weak because the layer being applied doesn't have enough thermal mass. I'm not sure the best thickness - around .1mm or .2mm but I think .2mm *might* be better. 2c) Print hot. I have gotten clogs at 255C (too hot if you print slow) so I usually print at 250C but I am still not good at ABS so listen to some other expert who has printed 1000 things in ABS. Even at 250C make sure you print at least .2mm layers and at lest 25mm/sec. 2d) Enclose your printer. 3) Enclosing your printer will also help with the shrinkage stresses. The glass temp for ABS is about 105C. Cooling to air at 20C means 85C of cooling/shrinking issues. If you cover the front of the printer with plastic and put a box on the top (big box to allow bowden tube in the back) then you should get about 40 or 50C air inside. This helps a lot! This brings your 85C of cooling down to 55C of shrinking. Don't go much hotter than 50C as the steppers might get too hot but 50C should be fine.