gr5

As was already said - don't panic - your orders are still in the *old* software not viewable on the web.

The ordering software was switched to new software so even though it doesn't show many orders - they are still there.

I really don't know but it might have to do with how much melted plastics stick to aluminum versus brass. The original reprap nozzles were brass acorn nuts machined on a lathe with the hole drilled out. Many probably still are. You get the hex nut shape and thread built in and they are cheap:

What settings are you using for the fan coming on? I believe the new defaults are 100% at .5mm maybe? meaning if you have .2mm layers it comes on rather quickly (40%,80%,100%). where the old default I think was 100% at 5mm. (4% increase per layer at .2mm, 2% at .1mm). Personally I typically use 100% at 1mm. Of course for smaller parts it's even worse because if it can print a layer in 10 seconds it may be increasing fan speed faster than the heater can catch up.

Just FYI Anders design is moving along. He is having someone make a small batch *and* he has a partner working on making a medium sized batch at the same time.

It seems like you have enough information to make it home anywhere and have z=0 be anywhere (should be when nozzle just touches plate) and have Z=10 be nozzle 10mm above plate and so on. Play with pronterface some more?

Progress. So now your Z direction is backwards maybe?

That's a good sign! Try putting the acceleration back to 5000mm/sec/sec or whatever it had been. You will get better quality with higher acceleration (because you don't want the extruder to ever slow down and if it does you want it to be brief). Um - yeah - a limit switch could also cause this problem. If the LEDs are somehow hitting it or it's getting shorted out - follow the wiring with your eyes and maybe it gets pinched under one of the metal covers (the limit switch for the "bad" axis).

Instead of swapping the pins in the firmware - couldn't he have just swapped the wires to the endstops?

I would like to see a version where I don't have to modify fans or drill hole in fan mount plate.

This sounds like the most unbiased comparison so far? Ultimaker 2 and Original both did well. Makerbot 5th generation did very badly of course: Only 67 printers are mentioned (they need at least 5 reviewers to get mentioned): http://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers

I was at a "3D printed quadcopter" meetup last night! Talk about amazingly niche meetups! There were about 80 people there. It was crazy. I got lots of great advice and was inspired! The largest group by far were FPV (first person view) enthusiasts. They all met each other at fpvlab.com. They have amazing rigs and have flown a few *miles* from their base station. But mostly they had small, fast, FPV fliers that they zip around through trees at high speed.

@mark hale - regarding your post #740 (5 posts ago) that lower picture looks like underextrusion. It's the pattern one sees (broken strands all around) when you print very thin layer heights (< .08) and/or underextrusion.

CuraEngine.exe is the one that you need to tell the virus scanner to ignore. But before you do that - you should disable virus scanner completely just to see if it makes a difference. Because having it ignore one file might not be the fix. Or virus scanner might not be the problem but the only way to know for sure is to disable it completely for a few minutes while you test out cura.

UMO+ and UMO with HBK have many differences. UMO+ has a *metal* fan shroud. UMO+ has a white UM2 circuit board. The white circuit board means it uses a PT100 thermistor instead of a thermocouple in the nozzle block. UMO+ power supply probably can't support dual head! Other minor differences. But for most practical purposes they are the same.

I don't know how tight. I think maybe it's not so much how tight are the screws - but how tight is the bowden pushing on the isolator. I just read every damn post on this forum for the last few years and when someone finds a solution (among many solutions that work!) I mention it again.

I did the exact same thing that bot did in his video - got the red text box - but no delays. I typed a new value and it started slicing again. @bot - Are you sure you don't have any antivirus software? Maybe windows firewall? Windows defender? I can definitely see why bot needs a "slice" button. There is some serious bug going on there. Bot you know you can just not load the model until all your settings are ready, right? That's a work around. But I'd first try disabling all antivirus software which might be delaying the launch of the slice engine.

Ultimaker in the past would hang a printer upside down by a rope at their booth while it was printing. I've printed with the machine on it's side before. Doesn't seem to help overhangs at all :( but it might help bridging I suppose if you printed on it's side such that the "strings" were vertical.

If you are as strong as me then pulling as hard as you can won't damage the bowden or anything. But a good rule of thumb would be 10 to 20 pounds should be enough. If it comes out with less than 5 pounds pulling force nozzle was too hot. If it takes more than 20 pounds force, heat it up 5C to 95C. Wait 10 seconds and try again. If you still can't do it after 30 seconds at 100C then something is wrong with your heater. Or you have strange filament that needs to be printed hotter than normal PLA.

I've never heard of "3d pdf" files. I have no idea how one converts from "3d pdf" to stl.

Ah! This is much more clear. But I don't know the answer. Well let's see - if movements are backwards in pronterface than definitely change the "invert" signals until that part is right then don't touch that and move to the next thing (homedir and endstops). You might have to plug endstops to a different connector maybe?

Maybe you should make a short video of what you are talking about. With sound so I can hear the extruder motor.

You need to give more information. Is this "no filament extruding" happening right on a filament change? Are you rehoming when you switch colors? I mean you should be printing a whole new print for the second color, right? First of all I don't use the "change filament" procedure. I just pull it out and push it in. That way I can also make sure to prime it. And the second part I print has a nice skirt to get the filament flowing before it starts on the primary bottom layer. I think what's happening with you is your feeder skips back when you start the print and it takes a while to get going again. Hence the skirt.

This is a common complaint with t-glase and also PET. I haven't tried it yet. Not sure what the solution is.

Open a ticket with support.ultimaker.com. Refer to this thread and they'll send you a new one. The part (if you want to fix it yourself) is a PT100 but don't use regular solder which melts around 250C. You need to do mechanical connection only (or use 300C lead solder). I recommend doing the ticket now as it may take a few weeks before they get around to your ticket.