gr5

If I didn't need the printer for a week (well you *can* print most materials on cold glass if you add some painters tape and clean the tape with rubbing alcohol) and had the money to buy another plate if I broke it then yeah I would try flattening it by hand (after completely removing from the printer). I would test the resistance of the heater circuit before putting it back together (the failure mode would be that the resistance would go up drastically especially if you bend it slightly). Contact support@fbrc8.com about getting a price quote for a new S5 heater plate. They don't list this particular part on their website but they have prices for absolutely everything and will sell you any part (although sometimes they only sell you a particular assembly). fbrc8 assembled your printer as they assemble all Ultimaker printers sold in USA. Important: include the serial number of the printer in your email to save time as they will ask you for that. @fbrc8-erin might reply here as well but best to send the email.

Please show a photo. Not all thin wall issues are the same.

youmagine has recovered and is working once again.

It could just as easily be the glass versus the plate under the glass. Remove the glass from the heater plate and test them separately to see where the issue is. I have personally unbent a heater plate using my fingers alone (took most of my strength) only to later realize I could have cracked a trace on the heater under there. Fortunately no harm done in my case. What country are you in? Is it less than a year old? If you don't know you can find out using only the serial number but first: what country are you in?

"same issue"? Are you using octoprint? Also note that "z hop" settings can confuse these plugins so make sure zhop is disabled.

So you can drag the vertical slider to jump to any layer and you can drag the horizontal slider to play through an individual layer. I don't use the play button because I need to go very fast to the spot I'm interested in and then very slow through that spot.

There are a lot of electronics changes in the UMO heated bed kit (HBK). It uses 24V power brick instead of 19V. There is a circuit to lower the 24V to 19V for the electronics. 24V runs the heater so there is a circuit added to allow the weak arduino signal to turn on and off the power to the heater. This makes it somewhat complicated. Oh - and I can't remember but I think the bed uses PT100 sensor so there is an analog amplifier circuit as part as the upgrade kit (UMO original circuit board can't deal with PT100s). Also there is a "UMO+" that uses the UM2 circuit board (which doesn't need a fan is more robust) and it also uses a newer better temp sensor technology (PT100) in the nozzle block that isn't compatible with the older UMO PCB. So it's not a trivial upgrade. So I don't think the chinese ever made a knockoff. I think it would be easier and cheaper to just buy a used UMO: either one with the HBK or a UMO+. Maybe set a search trigger for those in ebay? Hell consider a really old and cheap UM2 as well. The UM2 is a really great printer. I have 3 that I use every week. Having said that, the UMO with no modifications prints PLA quite well. Make sure you clean the blue painters tape with isopropyl alcohol to get the wax off and your parts will stick nicely to it.

Yeah but better to fix it in the machine settings. Find out what the acceleration and jerk and max speed settings are for your printer and put that in the machine settings (not your slicer settings). Even better, do a pull request so all people with the same printer will get the proper values when they upgrade to the next version of cura.

Often it will print as is. Look at it in preview mode to see what will be created - there may be large areas missing or holes filled in. But there are lots of things you can do to repair the mesh. "Watertight" is the hardest for AI to repair as it means there is a hole in the skin of the model somewhere and computers are pretty stupid when it comes to realizing what a human really "meant". Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Here's another service - drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php Some people recommend tinkercad - it's free - you import your stl into tinkercad and then export it to a new stl and tinkercad will fix many issues.

Definitely try a new SD card first (much cheaper!). I know some people who replaced that board and it fixed the issue and other's where it didn't fix the issue. Definitely try to move the ribbon cables even a tiny bit. Like if you put some foam between the two cables to make them another 1mm farther apart. Or change the routing so they go past a different chip than they do now. Just moving 1mm can be enough. Your whole issue is intermittent where maybe one in 10,000 bits get flipped. That can be from a bad connection to the SD card, the SD card itself, or electrical interference in the ribbon cables. This type of issue is difficult to diagnose as it is intermittent. I had this problem on one printer. Cleaning the contacts helped A LOT. But the problem was still there (but reduced by 10X). So I swapped the board with another UM2 thinking the problem would either move to the other printer or stay with the "bad" printer. Well the problem went away at that point so I never figured out exactly what the problem was. Maybe I had moved the ribbon cables slightly?

Lol. yes. Please. Also what kind of printer do you have?

Please save your project so we can look at it. That will contain your model and all your settings. In the menu do "file" "save project as" and post the resulting file here.

Well most of the parts are available on aliexpress if you search for things like "ultimaker 2 printhead" for the head and "ultimaker 2 feeder". For the stepper motor go to this link and click "contact" and tell them you just want the extruder stepper motor (the bigger one without the z screw): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32796683178.html But first, what is the diameter of this nylon (PA6) filament? Is it 2.85mm? Or is it 1.75mm? If 1.75mm then you need a 1.75mm solution. You can get a 3mm to 1.75mm conversion kit from 3dsolex.

From your description I'm pretty sure it is getting bad bits occasionally. A little more detail. 99% of gcodes look like this G1 X123.45 Y75.71 E2132.324 This is setting the next X,Y,E position. Assume that all 3 axis are moving only maybe 2mm (and the E axis maybe 0.1mm) from the previous position. You can see we are about 2 meters of filament into the print. If that "1" in 2132 switches to a 0 then it tries to backup 100mm in E axis which is much of the length of the bowden tube. The printer will slow down a LOT because the E axis has a max speed of around 20mm per second so that will take 5 seconds. The next command will have the 1 back to 0 as it is supposed to be and now you have to wait ANOTHER 5 seconds for it to recover. Why don't other digits get messed up? they do. but if an X or Y gets messed up it just very very quickly moves to the wrong position and then comes back and continues. Giving you little minor bumps and holes. To remove the front PCB this is the only tricky step - remove the knob as described and then the nut: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187086-The-Button-Won-t-Click Then you can either try cleaning the SD card slot or replace the whole thing. ALSO TRY A NEW SD CARD

Well it could be that the stepper is losing steps but that would sound loud even though it wasn't moving far. I think I've seen this exact issue. And if I'm right, the feeder is moving long distances and the feeder has a speed limit that is making it so that X and Y move INCREDIBLY slow. So try to see it happen in action and then reach around and feel the filament. It should be moving long distances - like 100mm while the X or Y move very short distances. I could be wrong - it could be a stepper driver is overheating. But I doubt it. I think you are experiencing something that I've seen many times. It's read errors on the SD card. Where it moves the E axis (the extruder) about 100mm and then on the very next moves it moves the E axis back to where it was. This can take easily 10 seconds for each tiny X/Y move.

Please try to print the attached file. It's just your cube, 10mm on a side, but I added 3 moves in Z direction that are similar to what the moves look like when you do PVA support. All it does is move the Z up 2mm (and then back down by 2mm) at the start of 3 of the layers. All 3 layers are in the first 5mm of the cube (the first half). So there should be 3 innie/outie lines where I did the 3 z moves. There is another oddity but one thing at a time. You can stop the print after it has printed the lower 5mm if you want. It's a 15 minute print but you only have to do the first half. temp1.gcode

When it moves very slowly - does the extruder move a long distance? If so then I am familiar with it. Change the other board. The one that the SD card goes into. Or at least try cleaning the connectors where the SD card connects inside. Also maybe move the two ribbon cables to a slightly new position. I had a single tiny hair - maybe an eyelash in the connectors. After cleaning that the problem still happened but much more rarely.

This printers last for decades. These printers are tough. You don't need much maintenance. You should do maintenance once every 5,000 print hours (about 5 kilometers of filament or 50 spools). I would say 95% of people never get to that level. If you have the printer running 8 hours per day, 5 days per week, that will take 2.5 years. Most people don't print that much. I haven't reached those levels in 8 years of printing but many people do. Maybe do maintenance at half that. More often you need to add a drop of oil to the rods. Maybe once every few months. You can feel the head getting higher resistance if you push it around. Maintenance: remove the Z screw and stepper and clean screw over newspaper with WD-40. until shiny new. Replace, regrease. Test Z bearings while screw is removed. Replace all the belts. The 4 long belts come with the sliding blocks. Replace the sliding blocks and the long belts at the same time you replace the short belts. Inspect the feeders - remove covers. feel the sharp spikes on the feeders. Replace if dull. Look for wear where the filament passes through. Replace any parts that are worn. That's usually all you need to do. Really the belts go first but it takes several kilometers of filament. About 5k or about 50 spools.

I thought you were going to do continuous fiber? What does that have to do with a second nozzle? Now I'm confused. I think that adding a second extruder is a big project. Adding a continuous fiber is also quite a big project. Why do both at the same time? Anyway if you are doing just normal filament then you don't need the M280. I would trust the mark2 because I know a few people who did it and it works very well but the kit no longer seems to be available. You can get most of the parts on aliexpress and you don't need the circuit board (just solder the proper cables together). But you do need quite a few parts. I think you can get them all on aliexpress. The DXU option seems quite good as well. Still don't see what this has to do with continuous fiber?

The z screw needs grease. Any grease will do. Just a pea sized drop after you've cleaned it all off. The X and Y rods (in the gantry) need about half a drop of oil each. Any light oil will do but some good things to search for on amazon: sewing machine oil 3-in-1 oil the z rods shouldn't be oiled supposedly. Oil will just help dirt get into the bearings. But in practice I find a very very tiny amount of oil sometimes helps. This is true also of the smaller rods that go through the print head but again, I find that oil actually helps despite the bearings. The 4 thicker rods in the gantry definitely need oil. No ball bearings involved there.

Anyway, if you are able to prove my theory (by adding z hops or 3kg of rocks) and if your printer is new you can then call your reseller (if it's still under warranty) with a successful diagnosis.

Yes, some of your older picutres were really excellent and I could see it was extruding on every layer but some layers extrude a LOT more than others. Did you fix that 0.3mm parameter yet? To see if somehow (no idea how) that is the cause of the problem? But it's just so weird to have 0.3mm for support layer height and 0.15 for regular layer height. I don't see how that is possible. And when I looked at the gcode it was overextruding the PVA if I remember right. Can you please please confirm? This is a pretty serious bug and I want to know if it is somehow related to your every-other-layer issue. This is the 3rd post where I asked you to fix that. This still looks like a Z axis play issue. So I went back to your "hop" experiment and realize the experiment was a bad test. I assumed it would do 2 layers of one tower then go over and do 2 of the other. But it doesn't! It is doing only one layer and then hopping over to the other tower and doing only one layer and then hopping back. So it's not the same. Instead print only a single tower with no hopping enabled. Manually move the Z up ever 5th layer or so. Search through the gcode for the letter "z" and also "layer". There should be only one Z per layer. Look at the layer numbers and on the 5th and 10th and 15th layers add: G1 Z30 On the line before the other Z command that moves to the new layer. Or pick an Z value at least 3mm higher than the next layer. I'm really sure now. My earlier guess was correct. Z-play issues. Did you ever see how dirty the Z screw looked? Particularly near the top? Anyway I wish you had tried that brick experiment. You can use rocks instead. Place them after the print is doing the first layer. z-play can be caused by friction in the z bearings, or the z rods or the z screw or the z nut. Or dirt in the z screw. The Z nut is the most common problem but sometimes the 2 z rods are not parallel and things are binding and it takes a lot of friction to move the bed up or down. You can test this by lifting the bed by hand yourself when the power is off. You have to fight the stepper but you can do it. It's a similar force as lifting the entire printer. Lift from the bed near the back of the printer so you aren't tilting the bed a lot.

You can ask for flatter glass.

The second to last picture seems to show that your glass is lower there. Is it possible that there is a chip of glass missing? Try flipping the glass over. But you will definitely need some kind of glass coating on the other side. I recommend glue stick and then spread the glue around with a wet tissue.

UFP is for Ultimaker printers only. You must have chosen an ultimaker printer. Make sure cura is in PREPARE mode (near the top center there are 3 buttons) and then in the top left you can select the printer (or add a new printer to your list of printers).