gr5

Maybe I should just print your file on my printer instead. Look to see if the "bad" layers have different temperature than the good layers. Or if the bad layers have a temperature that oscillates every other layer.

That version of the firmware is probably the latest (even though there are other versions with a newer date, I think they may be identical - not sure). However there is a better version of the firmware with a few minor bugs fixed and more importantly lots of features added (like continue a failed print after power failure or other failure). tinkermarlin: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases I use the above version on all 3 of my active um2 printers. Make sure to download the "extended-plus" version.

Well I had a similar problem and prying out the magnets just 1mm increased the strength of the door by about 10X. I did this quite a few years ago and my door has been fine ever since (never pops open when it shouldn't).

If you print something long and skinny like a pencil-laying-flat shape the infill will be slower because due to the acceleration value it never gets up to full speed yet the sides of the "pencil" will print blazingly fast in comparison. Could that be it? Check the actual speeds as nallath suggests in the views - there is a view that shows speed (using colors) I think.

The code looks fine. I think your Z speed or your Z jerk or your Z acceleration is faulty. Or too much friction on the Z. Try moving the Z up and down by 10mm movements to see how it does. You can do this from the menu system.

Keep in mind that if you download a Beta version of any program you are taking a risk that it will have bugs that you care about. The benefit is that users are listened to more heavily during the brief beta period. And that you get to feel proud about being a contributor to making a product better. If you just want a working program, definitely avoid all beta versions!

@GavBak - good news - the author of the z offset plugin seems to have fixed it - check it out on the github page. Note that cura5 is a beta and one of the (many) reasons to make it a beta is to give the 3rd party plugin developers time to get them all working before the final release of Cura 5.

I have an S5 but not a UM2+C. I thought the primary reason to get the "connect" was for the network connection. Not sure. Anyway I have 3 theories: 1) Hardware issue - there may be a USB cable that connects there that fell out? More likely the USB connector is directly mounted on the board so probably not but maybe you should try a different USB flash drive. If you remove the flash drive does the button go away or is there no change? 2) filename. Maybe you copied the wrong file to the flash drive. I do that all the time. I'll copy the STL file or the project file (3mf file) onto the flash drive instead of the correct file. I'm not sure if the filename is .gcode or .ufp but I strongly suspect the filename should end with ".ufp" as that is what is used for the S5. 3) Selected wrong printer. In cura make sure you selected UM2+C and not UM2+. In the PREPARE mode in the upper left area you can select the printer type there.

According to Ultimaker, PP and CPE are "chemically resistant": https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011940320-Which-Ultimaker-material-should-I-use- I'm not sure how similar that is to HDPE. Maybe you need to be more specific - I seem to remember that HDPE is resistant to acids? I don't know much about this subject. CPE is pretty easy to print. Relatively easy. I think it's the same thing or similar to other vendors products called "PETG". PP is hard to get to stick to a glass bed. Ultimaker used to recommend special plastic embedded paper that you put on the print bed but it usually tears so it's a pain in the neck - you have to remove it all and put on a new sheet almost every print (or print on a new area each time). They are called "print sheets" or something similar. But now I think there may be newer methods to get PP to stick (maybe using PEI bed instead of glass? Maybe using "magigoo PP" (never tried it). What about printing HPDE directly? I don't know. I'd give it a shot. It's not all that expensive. Make sure you get 2.85mm diameter. I've seen people complain that "it doesn't stick to itself well" and "it warps off the bed". These complaints tell me that they aren't getting good layer adhesion. So print with the fan OFF and crank up the bed as high as you can go (110C or hotter) and cover the printer enough to get the air in there to around 40C (40C is deemed safe by Ultimaker but don't go any hotter as the stepper motors can overheat). Also experiment with various glues (hairspray, elmers wood glue and water, etc - google these or watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k ) I'd also disable the cooling feature on your S3. When testing 5 minute prints it really sucks to wait for the bed to cool down to 50C and then heat back up to 110C between every print and every experiment. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer

FYI, Cura runs great on ubuntu and it runs on Macs as well so they aren't microsoft fanatics. However as you can see above, some of the libraries they are using (which make Cura run faster) don't work on win7 anymore. The good news is that Cura from a year or two ago still works quite well. And the older versions are still available from the main Cura download page.

Wow. wow. That does look good from 1 to 3mm. What the heck is going on near the top? I didn't do anything near the top. Anyway: okay, it doesn't look like a Z issue. All I can think of is temperature. If you know the IP address of your printer you can connect to it with any web browser and it has a webpage. There is a link to the temperature graph. You can watch the temperature while it prints. Disable everything except things related to the PLA nozzle. You will know when it gets to the pva section because the temp will go up and down a lot. You can tell when it is printing by listening and looking at the graph to see how far off the temp is when it starts the layer and how long until it gets back to the correct temperature. That's all I can think of.

This sounds off topic. Are you talking about water soluble support filament? If not please post in a new topic. And please include more description and some screenshots or photos would help explain your issue.

55C for a few hours will do almost nothing. Unspool the amount of PVA you need and place it on the print bed with the spool sitting on top (partly to keep the spool from getting as hot as the spool itself can warp a little (not a huge deal) at 70C). Try 70C for 4 hours. Cover with 5cm of towels or blankets. To dry an entire spool takes around 24 hours. Probably longer - that will get the outer cm or so.

This happens a lot to lots of software packages. Antivirus software thinks it has a virus (even though it doesn't). By enough enough people have installed it that I think you are safe. Also "HEUR" makes me think it is a heuristic algorithm and not a fingerprint that flagged this. The are algorithms that look for certain pieces of code (ah - here it writes to another file. A little suspicious) and if there are enough red flags it decides it is malware. Even the fingerprint method fails sometimes. Well, a lot. And gives you false positives.

You need a much denser pattern as you get close to any top surfaces. To support these surfaces from within the part. So the pattern needs to have a 3rd dimension. What you describe sounds similar to the variable infill pattern which I think will hug the walls like in your diagram. Until you get near a top surface. Also the lightning infill I think might hug the walls a bit?

Or maybe all those lines are below 1.5mm? You tell me.

Checking that gcode... It starts out at 10mm at the first layer so the 0.2mm layer gets a virtual z hop as the med moves upward just starting the first layer. Then one at 0.35mm (the very next layer) so those 2 shouldn't be visible as they are the same. Then one at: 1.55mm 2mm 2.3mm I think at least 2 of those 3 are visible? Can you measure up to see if those lines near the base are at those 3 locations? Also does the filament stick out as much at these 2 or 3 locations as on your earlier models? Layer height is 0.15mm so I never did it 2 layers in a row. I still think the problem is Z axis related but I don't feel this completely proves it. Maybe I should have done every other layer for like 10 layers in a row? It takes about 10 seconds for each hop edit by hand. So I could do 10 layers in just a few minutes I suppose...

I haven't seen this exact issue but I have seen covers that pop open pretty easily. 1) One thought - try prying out the magets in the door slightly. They should hold much better 2) I wonder if the curved part of the core is hitting the metal plate in the door that controls airflow. Maybe that metal plate needs to be repositioned slightly. I think you can loosen two screws and readjust but I'm not very familiar with this.

I didn't mean to be patronising. I tried to be informative and helpful. I explained the phenomenon and gave you two suggested solutions. Sorry.

Ah. A few years ago I looked at the files that set this up. And edited them. It's confusing. But you can go in there and modify them and then it will allow more materials. I forget what I did but there are multiple files - like one for each material and then one for each printer maybe and maybe it was in the printer files? I forget but it's pretty easy to read the files - they are meant to be read by a computer but they are also human readable. It's not too hard to edit these. Then exit cura and go back in and it will read the files when it launches. However you will have to re-edit this file/files each time you upgrade to a newer version of cura. grep is your friend. It's very helpful to have a search tool (like grep) that can search through all the files in a directory tree for a string like "Generic PETG" to start to decode how it works. Unfortunately there is no manual to these configuration files.

Could you show a photo please of the problem and also a screenshot of the model in cura after sliced? In my experience PLA doesn't stick super well to PVA but it's usually fine. The other way around is usually the problem (pva not sticking on top of PLA and there are settings to deal with this second issue but none to deal with the first). Nylon and pva stick together much better. Usually PVA issues involve humidity getting into the filament. I find even just 1 day sitting on the back of the printer is sometiems enough to "ruin" the PVA. You can dry the PVA by unspooling enough meters for your print (don't cut the filament) and putting that on the heated bed with the spool on top. Then set the bed temp to 70C (no hotter) and cover with a few towels or blankets and then let it sit like that for 3 to 4 hours. One way to tell if your PVA or Nylon is too wet is that you will see steam coming out of the nozzle while it prints and maybe hear it crackling and sputtering. Also printed PVA should be transparent if dry - at least on the bottom layer. If it is very snowy that is tiny amounts of water making tiny steam bubbles.

You don't need a printer. It's easy. Run cura, pick any printer. Load the STL file and click the "slice" button. Then go to PREVIEW mode and you can scroll between the layers and see how it will print. You can enable "support everywhere" and see where it puts support (teal color) and then see if you can change your design to eliminate those areas. Much better than all this would be to initially read this: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

I have never heard of this. This sounds like a printer specific feature maybe? Actually - it's almost certainly in machine settings. Make sure you are in PREPARE mode and go to top left area where you can see your machine. Click drop down and look at the machine settings. In there is some start gcode. That is probably where someone put the lines. What kind of printer do you two have?

I don't think it is that the profiles are blocked - I think they just don't exist. No one created the profiles. Each combination of nozzle, printer, filament is a different profile. There are hundreds of profiles for UM printers alone. No one created any for carbon fiber materials for UM2 as it's a lot of work to create, maintain, and test these everytime a new version of cura comes out. Immense. Amount. Of work. Anyway I find that the basic set of profiles are typically better than the custom material ones anyway. So if you are printing say "XSTRAND GF30 PA-6" know that pa6 is just nylon (PA12 is also nylon but less common) and GF30 means 30% glass fibers. So just choose any Nylon profile. Change the line width to match your nozzle. And you are good to go. If it's a PETG with CF you can just choose a generic PETG profile (or even a CPE profile - these profiles have less customization than you would think). Often you will get better results this way than trying to choose the "official" profile.

This is normal, expected, and common in FFF printing. I don't know how Prusa slicer gets around this issue but I suspect they have a parameter (on by default?) like this one in Cura: hole horizontal expansion I typically get all my vertical holes about 0.4mm too small. Regardless if they are 25mm in diameter or 2mm in diameter. The problem is that PLA sticks to itself as it prints, like snot or mucus. As it prints the inner wall it is stretched like a liquid rubber band (it's tight because the PLA also shrinks as it cools in the first milliseconds out of the nozzle). This pulls inward and makes vertical holes smaller than desired. The best solution by far is to just fix it in CAD. Note that the outer diameter can shrink also but not as much as the rest of the part supports that outer wall from shrinking. All manufacturing techniques (milling, FFF, SLA, injection molding) require that you fudge things like this in CAD. Some people who do injection molding don't know this as the "factory" takes care of that step for you.