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M42! That's it. Nice. You can turn the pin off, or you can set the pin high or low or you can sit it to pulse at a duty cycle from 0 (0%) to 255 (100% on). The schematic can help you find a spare pin - some go to header connectors similar to on an arduino - so those are easy to get access to with a simple female connector. Ground is usually available nearby.

I recommend you do neither. Ultimaker looked into making it quieter and decided it was a bad idea and they have a team of engineers although they did get the steppers quieter on the S5, S3 and UM2+C. The stepper is not the problem - it's the stepper driver. The stepper driver is getting stepped fast, then pause, then fast, then pause and it causes a loud vibration. It can be fixed by replacing the stepper driver with a smarter one (pretty much impossible - requires soldering and finding one that uses the same pins and even then you would need wires to send the stepper some messages to put it into quiet mode) that is quieter or you could replace the computer with Klipper (not trivial and not as quiet as also replacing the drivers). Well the side fans - if they are much quieter your part quality will go down drastically. Also they are 12V fans in series with 24V across them. About 80% of modern fans can't do that as if one fan draws only 10V the other gets 14V and blows up or refuses to rotate or shuts down which then puts 24V on the other fan and... it's a mess. These modern fans have little computers in them. anyway it is possible to find fans that will work and are quieter but your part quality will definitely go down. A lot. The rear fan however is I believe 5V and easy to replace with a quieter one. Just get one with the same screw sizes and rated for 5V. I have actually done this on one of my UM2 series printers and should do the rest. It will require some very simple soldering but that's pretty easy to do.

So the electric switch (mosfet) can handle up to 100 watts no problem. However the power brick will have trouble if you have the nozzle on full power and the bed on full power even for just 2 seconds the power brick may trip and shut down your printer long enough for it to reboot. The solution is to install tinkerMarlin which has power management and will give the head priority if the overall draw of power exceeds 180 Watts. https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases 3dsolex sells high quality heaters for UM2 up to 50W and they work just fine. However if you need the bed at 100C (and nozzle at 240C) then you probably need to beef up the 24V supply or add a supplement heater: a second heater under the bed that does maybe half the heavy lifting and the remaining work is done by the existing heater/temp sensor solution. Here's an old post about how the power budget works in tinkerMarlin - read this after you install it and have the new print head installed: how to use tinkermarlin power budget To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people. The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you just tell it. Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget. The bed gets lowest priority. In this version of Marlin is a power budget system. Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is). Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal. If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on. This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle). All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it. So for example if you use 150bed/50noz/150budget nozzle is on at 50% (25 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 25 watts below budget (150-25 is 125 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 83% power at that time (83% duty cycle). This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).

So it looks like you have a layer shift. This is a common complaint/problem. Which axis is shifting? Usually only the X or only the Y axis does this. There are 3 possible causes: 1) 90% of the time it's a set screw in a pulley that needs tightening. These need to be so amazingly tight that the tool. twists - sometimes permanently. Usually it's the one on the stepper as that one has the most torque and unfortunately is the hardest to get to but if you have a long hex driver you can push the print head around and get to it without taking those quarter panels off - they come off with just 2 screws to get at the stepper. The second most common pulley is the other one on the short belt. 2) 9% of the time you just need to oil things. If this has been printing continuously for 6 months or 8 hours a day for a year then it's time to oil the axes. Push the head around to feel the resistance of both axes. Add only one drop to each of the 4 thick rods in the gantry and one drop to each of the two rods that go through the print head. Push the head around again to spread the oil. If no significant decrease in resistance/friction then it's probably issue #1. 3) 1% of the time - forget about this - it's one of the other 2. Well let's just say this could be the issue if your room temperature is over 30C/90F.

So maybe try like they said and do a "factory reset". It's in the maintenance menu. Then the next time you level it should be okay. Personally my UM3 (pretty much the same firmware) remembers the leveling for pairs of cores but when I switch to an older set I always have to relevel (but I do only manual leveling on my UM3). So something is off about how it stores the previous leveling values (I'm careful not to touch any of the 3 screws when I level since the bed is perfectly level - it's just the height from nozzle to glass that I'm trying to calibrate). I have a few 3dsolex core's myself and I do customer support for people with them if they are in the USA so I'm very interested in this topic. If you are in USA we can take this offline if you want.

@tinkergnome - are there gcodes that can set the percent for another fan like output? And what pins might be available on the UM2? @PatrickTri - I doubt any extra pins will be able to control 24V - I think they will be 5V. On the other hand, most UM2 printers have an extra stepper driver (you'd have to look at your board - you have to remove the 4 screws holding it in and turn it over I think to see - but there is a large, obvious, square chip roughly lined up with each connector that goes to the servos. Some newer UM2 series printers don't have a chip for the second extruder but many do.

You shouldn't have to lower the fan unless you are printing for example with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.3mm (or thicker layers). Or if you are printing an extra hot material with a large nozzle. If you are printing PLA at default speeds and nozzle and layer height you shouldn't need to lower the fan. It indicates the nozzle is probably touching the metal shroud that holds the side fans. Maybe you or someone else took the head apart and put it together wrong? You want to make sure the brass heat block isn't touching the metal fan holder. There is a round nut above the nozzle. If you heat the nozzle to 180C you can rotate that nut without taking much apart (remove one of the 4 screws). Rotate it clockwise looking down from above (turn it to the right). This will raise up the heat block and also the nozzle.

My Ultimaker 3 has had I think one hardware update and I got it right when they came out. I think I had to change the sliding blocks? I'm only 80% sure as it was many years ago. I think it came with white ones that cracked pretty quickly after I got it and had to change to black ones. But these are not expensive. You can get the block and belt replacement kit for $45. They seem to have returned to white sliding blocks. https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts

Oh! Safety! Yeah they are pretty safe. First of all the UM2+ has a 24V supply that has it's own computer (the power brick) and it will shut off if there is too much current or voltage. More dangerous is the heater in the head. That can get to 600C or so (glowing red hot). In theory (not often in practice even with serious failures). Ultimaker does tests where they force the 24V into the head for an hour or so to see what burns/melts to make sure it's unlikely to cause an office fire. On top of this are software checks. There is a temp sensor and that would have to fail for the printer to stupidly leave the heater on continuously. The two most common failures (open or shorted) are caught instantly and power is cut off. The rarer issue of temp reading too low might make the printer show that the head is at 50C when it is actually at 200C (and still trying to increase the temp). But there is a software check where if the temp sits at the same temp even though it is full power - then after about 30 seconds it realizes the temp sensor is failing and it cuts power. So you have 3 failsafes: 1) most temp probe failures are caught instantly 2) subtle temp probe failure is caught by smart software 3) Even if everything fails and it puts full power into the head all night long, the resulting smoke and fire is contained enough to not start an office fire. But don't leave the printer running unattended with combustables touching the top of the printer!! The print bed is much safer. It can't get hot enough to make anything burn. There is one instance I know of where a 3d printer caused a fire and a shed burned down and caused serious damage. But that was not an Ultimaker printer. I doubt an Ultimaker printer has ever caused a serious fire that damaged anything other than the printer.

Also for architectural models make sure you don't disable jerk and acceleration control. Those reduce something called "ringing" which are like echos of features next to them. So next to a window or doorway you'll see a kind of visual echo of the door/window edge. If you print using an "engineering" profile you will get lots of ringing - the parts will be more accurate dimensionally but you will have ugly ringing.

If you are just printing PLA then the vapours are fine. I think noise is the biggest issue in an area with desk workers. Just go for it in the office area but send a memo to everyone asking them how they feel about the noise (tell them before you print to be nice and ask them to let you know how they feel about the noise after they've experienced it). Most people won't care but some will absolutely hate the noise. Try to put the printer as far as possible from the haters. Every slow print can be sped up. There are tradeoffs. Use a larger nozzle and/or thicker layers. This is tough with architectural prints where there is no defect too small. So for example you will probably want to do 0.1mm layer height but after doing a lot of prints at 0.1, try a few at 0.2mm thick layers (twice as fast to print!) and after doing a lot of 0.4mm nozzle prints try using a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle and see how, yes the quality is slightly worse, but still probably good enough. You can get those slow prints 10X faster. There are other settings to speed things up (mostly reducing infill which might not help much with architectural models). Make sure to use the "print thin walls" option for architectural models and try to print as little support as possible. The tops of doors and windows don't need any support as they are "bridged". You can print over thin air as long as the printed line is supported on both ends (aka "bridged").

Ah. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015627259 Yeah - that's the temp sensor. The thinner 2 wires in the photos. So this is never caused by a bad sensor. They are made of platinum and will probably still be working thousands of years from now. It's always in the wiring/connectors. Usually at the print bed because it moves up and down. Do you or a friend have an ohm meter and know how to use it? You want to remove the two smaller sensor wires under the printer and attach an ohm meter there (if the wires are connected to the printer that can throw off the reading. The bed should be around 109 ohms when at room temperature. You can look up a PT100 temperature table to see what temp is what resistance. all PT100 sensors use the same table. All of them! Unlike other types of thermistors. So the white cables at the bed go into a connector. I would take the bed completely apart (remove the 3 leveling screws and pay careful attention to how it all goes back together. Then remove and reseat the wiring at the print bed. Power up the machine with everything taken apart and check the temp of the bed. then wiggle the bed around a bit, changing the angle of the wires and see if the temperature suddenly jumps away from room temp (around 20C). Anyway a common failure is the solder that connects the connector onto the build plate. Or the wires just need to be removed and reinserted. (at both ends of the cable).

These machines don't really age much. You might have to replace the cores ($100 each) but probably not. Check the hours printing. Go into the maintenance menu and somewhere in there you can quickly find information about each core - how many hours it has printed. You can swap out each core and check each one and then add that all up. 2000 hours (about 2000 meters of filament) is a LOT of printing but you should be able to go at least 6000 hours printing before needing to change a few things. Still - this will be nothing in cost compared to the printer and what you get out of it. Personally my favorite UM printer is the um2go. I have an S5, a UM3 and 3 um2go's (all active and all working) and the um2gos get the most work done. Oh. It's an extended. Not as good as the regular (because heavier, bigger) but still quite a good printer.

There's a few minor bugs associated with "one at a time" mode. Nothing to worry about. Well - "pause at height" and "tweak at Z" and similar plugins get a little confused if you try to pause based on layer number. And I guess some display bugs that you found. But they are all minor.

You have lots of fixes. You could just do thicker outerwalls. That will have the infill far enough from the outer walls that you can't see the pattern. Or you can change the order - print the outer walls first by checking the cura parameter: outer before inner walls Although doesn't it print the infill after all the walls? I forget. Anyway doing outer walls first should help a lot.

I think "cubic" does that? Not sure. Try every single infill type. Did you see where to change the infill pattern yet? Another trick is to tilt your model on the build plate. but you may need more support than normal if you do that and the bottom surface may be ugly. Maybe you don't care.

Which error was it exactly? The errors all come with a web page you can jump to on the ultimaker website. So look at the error more carefully next time and follow the advice (go to that web page and read everything carefully).

What software did you use to edit it? blender? sketchup? Your model has problems - either the normals are wrong (normals tell cura which side of every surface is plastic versus air) (and sketchup and blender are notorious for messing up the normals) or your model is not manifold: https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/troubleshooting/missing_parts.md#non-manifold-meshes Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. There are also a few tools in Cura to visually show non manifold issues. For example "x-ray view". Go to "prepare" view first and then change to xray mode. Anything red is a problem.

Is it giving an error message? Like ER34? If so it's very helpful to go to the web page indicated on the printer display. Anyway it sounds like the sensors on the cores are working? They are reporting actual accurate temperatures (e.g. typical room temperature is 20C so they are around 20-30C instead of around 200C????) Please answer all questions as often I ask 5 questions and the least important question is the only one answered. So the most common cause for everything working but heater (on an S5) (wait - are you sure the servos are working? Does anything move at all? There is another common problem when 24V doesn't get to the servos nor any heaters) is probably the connector in the print head. This is so damn easy to fix. Takes less than 60 seconds if you've done it before. The rear two long screws in the back of the top of the print head come out (don't remove the front two as if you do everything comes apart) and then you can remove the tiny panel in the rear half of the top of the print head. Then you can see where the electric cable goes into the print head. Push that connector down firmly (but first move the head to a corner so you don't bend the long rods holding the print head). Before putting the head together try heating a core manually and see if the temp goes up. It should start going up rapidly within 5 seconds. If that doesn't help - also try heating the bed (you can do this manually on the front display in the menus - go to that "..." option in the upper right corner at some point I think?). Is the test bed also not heating up? (takes more like 20 seconds to be obvious that the temp is moving).

Oh - the grease - so it might be that the core isn't always sliding all the way down into it's seat (when the right core is in the down position). I've seen this before. Fixed with grease. The grease should last many years but if you keep changing the right side core (or left side core) then you might get inconsistent leveling on one or both cores. Lift the right core up and then down using the switch on the head. Then jiggle the nozzle (push nozzle gently towards the front and back of the printer). Does it suddenly go farther down? Try it a few times. If it does move down due to a little jiggle then you may need some high temp grease.

Somewhere around 0.9kg, yes. That's typical. If the 3 screws on the bed are too tight that means the spring pressure of the bed is on the high end and that can mess up active leveling also but... but... the problem is also in manual leveling which is so hard to believe. We would have thousands of people talking about this issue if the firmware couldn't store the value. so something is very strange. Oh! So there is supposed to be some grease on the core on the metal flange. Just above the heat break. Such that the flange slides in perfectly into that anodized fork. The fork makes sure the cores are aligned perfectly in X,Y and Z. Every time. So that you only have to calibrate once ever (well anytime you mess with the 3 bed screws I guess the calibration is in question again. So some advice for doing manual leveling in under 30 seconds. When it talks about "level so it's 1mm off bed" - ignore that and click continue 3 or 4 times until you can do the calibration card. Then once you get the back adjusted, skip the front two corners (you haven't touched the screws so they should be fine still) and then do the second core. Entire procedure (after heating nozzles to 180C or hotter) should take well under 30 seconds. The point is you are setting the height - not really leveling as of course it's already level (or another way to say it, the bed plane is parallel to the gantry plane). Another thought - are you printing in the same spot on the glass? Sometimes the glass is a bit curvy/hilly and if you are printing in one area with the left core and a completely different part of the glass bed with the right core - that may be the overall issue and not the leveling procedure.

So as far as I can tell the only thing they changed are the icons in what you showed so far. Those tools are in the same order and in the same position. For example the first tool lets you move your part around on the bed. The second one scales, third tool rotates, next tool does mirroring and so on. Same tools. Same order. Different icons. I wish I could tell you that you can hover over them for more information but I tried it (in 4.8.0) and that doesn't seem to help.

Stupid question but when you manually level the second core, are you turning the knob on the display? (versus the screw at the back of the bed). I don't see how the firmware can do anything wrong with manual leveling. I do it all the time. you need to make sure the nozzles are hot and clean and the bed is hot and I use the calibration card and make sure the friction is exactly the same for both left and right cores and when I'm done I start a print and I usually do some final adjustments as it prints the skirt (turning the 3 metal screws the exact same amount) but then the right core is always (always!) perfect. Maybe you are doing it with a cold nozzle and there is a tiny bit of plastic on the tip? I do hot nozzle and use the calibration card to clean the nozzle a little as well as to level it. You don't have to use the official card - you can use other paper but at least the 2 nozzles will be consistent. You can experiment and ssh into the printer and send it gcodes like "G1 Z0" which moves the Z axis to position "zero". And you can use "T0" and "T1" to switch between the cores (I never tried T0,T1 - I assume it works but I'm not 100% sure it will work through ssh as I think it's sending these directly to the second computer that controls the servos but normally I think T0 is intercepted by the main linux computer and then converted into more than one gcode command). Google "sendgcode" and "ssh" and "site:ultimaker.com" for examples.

Prime after retract - I've never set that to anything but zero. I guess I don't get the purpose. It implies the head was leaking at some point. Yeah having more fans is always good.