gr5

Less than 2 years old is not all that old. So hopefully your internal "hard drive" is fine and you just need to do the unbricking procedure. Did you try it? Are you back up and running? Did you already have a uSD card? Did you talk to your reseller about where to get the image file to put on the uSD?

Also don't let the hairspray get on the z screw or other components. Take the glass out before spraying or protect them in some other way. I don't use hairspray anymore but an equivalent glue that is painted on. I use 1 part wood glue and 10 to 30 parts water shaken in a jar and applied with a paint brush and then wait for it to dry (dries faster if heated bed is hot).

You can keep adding another layer of hairspray occasionally and then when you can't stand it any longer (ugliness) clean it at that point. I clean about once every 300 prints and start over. Often because I have a new print coming up that will be longer than usual - say a 10 hour print - or the glass is just so ugly - or a print that is larger than usual on the plate and likely to warp - or a combination of these reasons.

Sometimes a program is running even though you can't see it. That's what the discussion was about, editing the preferences file, to make cura visible when it launches.

If it's not sensing the material, just select the material type manually.

So most people with S5 printers do not have a material station. So just disconnect it. Remove it. Reboot the S5. Done. Right? I think that's your best option. I recommend you print your part towards the front of the print bed so that the bowden has a larger radius and is less likely to break the filament.

If you have or once had dual monitors then try deleting the file "cura.cfg" which stores the preferences that nallath was talking about. It's in the same folder as the cura.log file. Or you can just delete these 2 parameters: window_width window_left For example, if "window_left" is more than the width of your monitor then cura could be off to the right, therefore invisible. Or you can add this parameter: restore_window_geometry = False

Did you click the link and read all the detailed instructions? Do you have a second monitor? Did you disconnect that monitor temporarily to see if that was the issue? Then did you uncheck the recommended box before connecting up a second monitor?

Wow. Expansion. Didn't think of that. I guess I'd to an experiment with a paver or a few and some 3d printed plastic and heat up the pavers with a hair dryer or something to around 120F and then let it cool to outdoor temps and repeat a few times. If the pavers have slots for the markings you could maybe skip the 3d printing and melt something right into the slots in the pavers? I don't know if that would work. You may have some trouble gettings ASA to stick well. If so come back to the forum and ask about it. You just have to know the tricks of how to deal with each problem you run across.

Here is one such example: https://learningstructures.wordpress.com/2010/05/03/the-human-gnomon-project/ If you google "human gnomon sundial" in an image search there are so many different cool ideas.

A sundial!! I hope you use one of those sundial calculators that can be set to your longitude and lattitude for accuracy. I made a sundial at an elementary school where a kid is the gnomon. They stand on the current month and stick their hand up and the shadow falls on the hour. Quite accurate.

I don't know about UV rays and PETG. However... I have had no trouble with PLA outdoors in sunlight and rain. I have a knob that has been outside for about 8 years and still looks like new (near Boston). Heat is a more serious issue. It will get soft like clay at about 52C (about 130F). You can probably reach those temps in direct sunlight. If it's just for decoration - in other words if a slightly melted plastic has no where to go then maybe its fine? Although I guess it could stick to people's shoes. Probably not though. You can definitely get over 130F in a hot car in the summer and that will indeed make a PLA part slump if it's sitting on the front seat. Anyway, PETG can go a bit hotter (150F I think? I forget) which is good enough for many locations in the world. Not good enough for UAE or death valley but probably good enough for Georgia. Probably. First remember this isn't air temp, this is the temp in direct sunlight on the ground. Also remember that it may bet soft at that temperature but if it isn't under a strong bending load then it is no worse than walking on cold clay (think clay tennis courts). One inch below the surface of the ground should be fine as well as it won't get that hot down there. If you think it will get above 150F, the next material that has nice texture, look, and colors would be ABS which you can pour boiling water into a cup made from ABS and it's fine. It doesn't get soft until 99C. So as long as you don't dip it into a pot of continuously boiling water, you can pour boiling (100C) water into it and the water will cool below 99C in the first second..

Also the leveling firmware moves the Z axis up and down as it prints the first layer (which is not flat but matches the hills and valleys of the glass) and slowly reduces the corrections to zero by the 10th layer or so. If your bed is quite a bit off this will give wedge shaped bottoms of your parts. Like if you print a cube the bottom face will be crooked. So you need to get it pretty close manually once time and then forget about it for a few years.

In vase mode it makes only one pass. The movement is much simpler. So the patterns on the surface are simpler (smoother). Very few parts can be printed in vase mode. They have no top to them (like a cup or base) and be mostly hollow. I guess the basic problem is that the width of the thing you are printing is never going to be perfectly consistent so sometimes (for example) cura needs say 2 passes and sometimes 3 passes. So it has to go back and fill in certain parts. No matter how perfect you make it in CAD, all curves are converted to lines and so in tiny spots the distance between the lines change enough for cura to decide to go back and fill some spots in. Any part that *can* be printed in vase mode (again - none of the last 1000 parts that I have printed) *should* be printed in vase mode.

log file location On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8 On linux is here: /home/gr5/.local/share/cura/master %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows) , or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

Firstly I don't work for Ultimaker. Tens of thousands (probably hundreds of thousands) of people have Cura and it works just fine. So we need to know more. I can tell you that past "slowness" problems have been related to things like USB devices (try unplugging them all?) that look like they *might* be a printer but aren't, devices out on the network (try disconnecting the network temporarily just to gather data), and firewalls.

Yes. Many people get this particular issue with older printers. It's usually the "hard drive" which is a solid state drive built into the computer board. The board is made by Olimex - it's a red circuit board. Anyway I recommend you try to avoid updates if you get this working as updates write so many gigabytes to the hard drive that hitting a bad part of the "hard drive" is more likely and you are more likely to have problems like this. Anyway here are some unbricking instructions: http://gr5.org/unbricking/ And in there is also a link back to the forums which I'd start with.

I read every word above. some thoughts: This could be unrelated but sometimes the cooling fans are aimed badly and right at the nozzle. silicone "socks" can solve this for many printer types. The symptoms often include better extrusion as the nozzle gets farther from the print bed (which bounces the air back up into the nozzle). You mentioned bad surface contact with the nozzle? Not sure what you mean but this is pretty important. You want the nozzle almost as hot as the heater block. Regarding nozzle diameters. You didn't say the diameters but a 0.2mm nozzle is 4X less area than a 0.4mm nozzle (take the ratio of the sizes and square that ratio - so a 2x smaller nozzle is 4X less area). 4X is a lot. I recommend printing at similar "speeds" but cut your layer height in half and your line width of course in half. That gives you 1/4 the volume. Or you can keep the layer height the same and cut the "speed" in half. However it may be that you never reached the full speed in the past because you were limited by acceleration. So maybe cut the speed by more than 2X. Again - simpler to be consistent and leave the speed the same but cut layer and line widht each by half.

You are "leveling it wrong". Which is very common and very understandable and I don't know what you are doing wrong just that you need more squish. So don't level any more - just turn the 3 screws counter clockwise as seen from below to move the bed closer to the nozzle. Turn all 3 the same amount so you don't have to do the leveling procedure again. It's 0.5mm per full turn so try turning half way, start the print and be ready to turn them some more when it prints the skirt or brim. Remember - CCW as seen from below squishes more. CW squishes less. If you practice this at the start of every print eventually you will be able to do it without thinking. Anyway that's not ciritical as once you get the leveling perfect it should stay great for many months (or until you change the nozzle or other hardware that changes the nozzle position).

It looks like something strange with both your model AND your settings. Please post the project file.

I think maybe now there is a way. You need ssh access to the printer so that means it has to be in developer mode and it has to be visible network-wise from where you are. But if you have a vpn to the workshop then I think the answer is yes? Okay reading the link below the UM3 is not supported but I think you could be a beta tester. @Smithy can this guy try your tool with a UM3 - please read above.

The nut (red arrow) needs to be where the green arrow points. But only after you push the black part inward (blue arrow).

This shows you how to close the feeder: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011928020-Loading-filament-for-the-Ultimaker-Original You have to squeeze quite hard before sliding down the piece that moves up and down into the feeder. If the feeder is working properly you can fight the feeder with 3-5kg of force and the filament will not slip.

Yeah you didn't close the feeder properly. Common issue. Let me go look for some pictures...

What town in Germany? Maybe someone here on the forum lives near you who is an expert. Certainly @foehnsturm or @tinkergnome both live in Germany and are experts on the Ultimaker original. They are both very nice people. I've met them both in real life. And both very smart.