gr5

Note that all filaments have a spec sheet hidden somewhere. I usually google the material and the word "modulus" and usually the answer you need is in a pdf. You could try "shore". The softer the material, the more difficult it is to push through the bowden. Write down the shore A scale hardness e.g. 85A (and the modulus in pascals in case some filaments only publish one value or the other). So you can compare filaments. For both values, lower values are more flexible. Anything not on the "A " scale is likely too stiff but there are translation tables to convert for example "D" scale to "A" scale. You can't get much softer than ninjaflex (85A). Cheetah is 95A and much much easier to print. These materials are squished in the feeder so they under-feed. Because the feeder is moving the surface of the filament through the feeder at some specific amount but the cross section of the filament is now squeezed smaller. So it's less volume than the printer thinks it is. So sometimes you need to crank up the flow but if you go to high the pressure continues to build forever or until something gives. The thing that usually gives is you get spaghetti in the feeder. Set the feeder pressure to the minimum. There is a screw hole - use the same allen wrench for all other screws on the printer and loosen that (CCW) until the mark is all the way up. That will squeeze the filament less. Use the high end of the recommended temp range for the material. Be prepared to print as slow as 10mm/sec. Print a small cube (maybe 30mm) with 100% infill. Adjust things in the tune menu until you can't see any gaps in the infill. Don't overextrude - it will plow troughs with snowbanks if you are overextruding. Settings to adjust: flow, speed, temp. Keep good notes. Unspool a meter or so of filament behind the printer. It hangs like a string. put one drop of oil per meter. The bowden should always have lots of small droplets in it. Use any mineral oil such as "3 in 1" or "sewing machine oil". Even baby oil should work. Set a timer and every 60 minutes (or whatever works) unspool another meter of filament until it almost touches the floor and add another drop of oil below the feeder to dribble down the filament.

Or just type "draft" in that area where it says "search settings". To the left of that red circle above.

That makes sense! If the nozzle hole isn't round. I will remember this for the next time someone has a similar problem. 🙂 Have you tried "cold pull"? google it so you understand it - find an explanation with photos. Then do it from the menu system on the UM3. It usually takes a few tries to get a good cold pull. After a good cold pull the nozzle should be completely empty and you can see light through the nozzle tip. Then try scraping the inside with a piece of metal while the nozzle is hot and do one more cold pull.

@MobyDisk - is this intermittent or does it hang everytime you boot?

You idea of checking the fans was excellent. There are 3 fans in the print head. I still suspect the left fan. I've seen this kind of thing many times and when one side is better it's usually "not enough fan". Try to find a way to check the fan while it's printing instead of before you start. It may be intermittent. Maybe by using a small piece of paper to check airflow only on left side? Another possibility: Maybe the air temperature where you print has gone up? Because of the location of the print cores and the fans one side usually prints better than the other. But if this is a new problem maybe it is caused by slightly higher air temperatures or maybe you got some doors for your UM3.

I had the same problem about 8 years ago on a UMO and it was a bit frustrating but I have not had the problem on 7 other Ultimaker printers since then. These collets are cheap and not individually inspected. I'd cut 2mm off the end of the bowden and put in a new collet and inspect the new and old collet. Look at the blades under a magnifying glass. Cut the 2mm off the end to get some fresh bowden under the blades when reassembled. Note that the feeder end of the bowden is normally routed out inside to make it like a funnel to help guide the filament. But if you always cut new filament to a point then it doesn't matter. Or you can use a tool like this to make it cone shaped at the feeder end. Just be careful to inspect after - you don't want any strings of PFA (the material that makes the bowden) to end up inside the tube and carried to the nozzle where it will cause a clog. Really not a big deal as long as you know to check for this.

Printing water tight is hard enough. Air tight even more difficult. I think you can probably do it but you will have to adjust temperature, speed, flow to get perfect extrusion. Or at least no underextrusion. You probably want ninjaflex. But I'm not certain. The property that you have a lot of control over (by choosing a filament) is the flexibility, or elasticity. Which for these materials is almost always measured in "shore hardness". Beware that there are 3 scales A,B,C and each scale gets softer. You mentioned silicone. If you've ever done molding with silicone you would know that you can buy many different shore hardnesses. So if you have a know material (for example some silicone) and you already know it's shore hardness you can try to decide if you want more or less flexible. If you don't, then I recommend starting with ninjaflex. Like you probably already saw me say: print slow, hot, >100% flow and add oil to the filament.

Is it? I don't know if it is. It's pretty good. It is free and open source. Because it is open source there have been many contributors that don't work for Ultimaker. Some really great features have come from people who don't work for Ultimaker.

Did you see any errors in the log? Sorry I'm too busy this morning to look at it myself plus I'd simply be searching for the words "error" "critical" or "fail". If so extract just that part and use the @ to flag a UM employee like carlok above.

Well your reseller should give you support for this kind of thing. Or you can click that icon in the upper right corner as shown below, then click support, then click "Submit a request". (all of these in the upper right corner of any Ultimaker.com page).

This is a complicated subject. I believe the Tevo uses Marlin firmware which probably has an offset from the homing switches in order to print over the build plate (and not off the edge). Maybe? All printers are different. So 0,0 might be inward a bit. Anyway in the PREPARE mode of Cura go into the machine settings for your particular printer and in there you can set the width and height of your print bed. Whatever numbers you put in there - cura divides those 2 numbers by 2 to get the center.

try windows? I have cura on ubuntu and it works great (appImage). The errors you are getting are related to openGL which is affected by your graphics drivers and graphics card. For many people, updating their graphics drivers have fixed openGL errors in Cura. You might need a newer graphics card? I really don't know.

I don't have an air manager but I'm 90% sure you can just disconnect it (and optionally the material station), reboot and then install the update. After the update seems good you could optionally reconnect the hardware and reboot.

Could you give a little more detail please? I guess I need diagrams sketched on a napkin or something to understand. First question: does octoprint have anything to do with this? Is this the octoprint z-hop feature where you can take a photo on each layer? Or is this the cura z-hop feature. And do you have a delta printer or a "normal" printer? z-hop is mostly just used for delta printers. "where the self added pre gcode to purge" - did this get added in the "start gcode" settings that are part of the printer file? If so you can edit those. Or did this get added by cura? Or did you add them. Does self refer to yourself personally? Sorry that I'm a little confused. Also is this happening on a UM2? If so is your machine profile set to "ultigcode"? Or "reprap"? With "ultigcode" the UM2 itself does the purge (I believe) and with "reprap" the purge is set by the gcode file (if I remember right). Oh wait - it's making more sense - you are using octoprint so you must be using "reprap" mode, right? Okay I'm thinking you can edit that "critical command" as you call it in the machine profile in the "start gcode" section.

That is normal that one nozzle is lower. The head currently printing will always be lower. Manually push the switch on the print head and you can see it changes which nozzle is lower. To get rid of those "dragging" lines go to the parameter: combing mode and set to Not on Outer Surface

Oh! Yes it's definitely the settings. I expect the wall on the left of this picture have the curve and the wall on the right of this picture does not. So the bottom layer prints perfect as it can stick to the glass bed. Each layer as you go up prints farther to the right (in this photo) due to the "snot" situation I describe above. As you get farther from the heated bed the air gets cooler and it slowly recovers. 1) Do you really need to print like this? Are you printing tunnels? Is this for some kind of chemical lab work where you are sending chemicals through tiny tunnels? If not print with "normal" profiles which have walls. 2) If you absolutely need to print like this due to the tunnels, then you can turn off the heated bed or lower it to 35C. I would put blue painters tape on the glass bed, clean the tape with alcohol (ehtyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol - 70%) to remove the wax from the tape, and then print onto that.

I think that option is pretty useless. I don't think there is any way they could actually make a "make this printable" feature that was even 1/1000 as smart as a human. At least I can't foresee anyway to do this without human level AI.

Wow. I've seen that many times but never that bad. 1) What material are you printing. This matters a lot. 2) How much infill did you use - which infill and what percentage? How many passes did it make on the walls (how thick)? I'm asking because the walls have tremendous forces pulling inwards so it matters. You know what? Just please post your project file. Do "save" "save project as" and post that file here please. That will answer all these questions. 3) Bed temp. Again - post project file and I can see bed temp. As the thermoplastic exits the nozzle it cools quite a bit in the first few milliseconds. that means it is like a stretchy liquid elastic. Like snot. it pulls inward pretty strongly as it prints around those corners. You can change the printing order. Normally walls are printed before infill. You need at least 2 passes of wall so that the inner walls can sit on the layers below and the outermost walls is held back by the inner walls. Try to set the order to print infill first, then inner walls, then outer walls last. You can use an infill pattern that is denser in the corners (variable infill). Bed temp matters also. Lower the bed temp a little - maybe by 5C. If you lower too much the corners can warp off the bed so you may need to do better adhesion at the same time like using an extra thin layer of glue (thick layers of glue don't hold down the part as well as thinner layers). You can use a wet tissue to remove most of the glue and spread it around more.

I should mention that it's a little frustrating when we ask you questions to try to help you and you ignore them. Like "did you turn on spiralize?" and "did you set infill to 0%". Of course I have the answers now that you posted the project file. Thanks for that.

Everything looks fine. You modeled a box with two shallow entries into the box. And that's what cura wants to print. However I think I understand what is bothering you. You want a hollow box? If so you need to model a hollow box in CAD. You can't model a solid box in CAD and expect Cura to slice it hollow for you. The "wall" setting in cura has nothing to do with how thick the walls will be (well sort of - it's confusing you I think). If you want a box with 3mm thick walls then you have to model that in Tinkercad. Not set that in Cura. And by the way keep your walls at least 1mm thick in tinkercad until you are an expert. I think you are independently, slowly coming to that realization already from what you said in your most recent post. So, "yes, you need to hollow out the box yourself".

For the rear you use the electronic knob. For the front two you use the mechanical screws. So if it's tight you need to move the glass down. Away from the nozzle. So you need to tighten those front two screws. Righty=tighty. So clockwise as seen from below. Turn them clockwise. A lot. Slide them to the right as seen from the front. Your bed is far from level so you may have to rotate many times. Eventually you may reach the point where it won't turn anymore. If that isn't enough then you need to loosen the rear knob, maybe about 5 turns, and then start the manual procedure from the beginging.

Tanooki please show a photo of what is wrong. It sounds like your model isn't the shape you think it is. Also, it would be good if you could post a "project file". In cura go to "save" and "save project as" and post that file here. That will include your printer settings, your profile, your overrides, your model, and how you positioned your model. Basically everything we need to replicate what you are seeing.

I have once heard the bizarre suggestion of disconnecting the AM and MS and rebooting and that sometimes recovers things. I have no idea why that might work. It seems more likely to me that some file on the "hard drive" (actually SSD) on the S5 is corrupt.

By the way - the whole "1mm" thing at the start is just to help avoid hitting the bed or the clips. I always ignore that and just click continue 3 times.

There's a slim chance someone with a UM3 lives near you and reads this forum so you could post the nearest city to you. Anyway, so firstly: A lot of people, when doing the manual leveling, don't realize that you are supposed to turn the knob on the front of the UM3 to move the bed up and down. The electronic knob. Not the mechanical screws. I believe counter clockwise moves the bed away from the nozzle. Try that. So at this point I'm not sure how much you have turned the 3 bed screws. Make sure that if you turn them the bed does indeed go up and down a little. Before you try leveling again - I like to position the front 2 screws so that if you look straight into the bed with your eye at bed height, the metal under the glass bed is just barely above the metal at the front of the bed. Just a tiny gap or no gap at all (lined up). Then try to do the rear screw about the same amount and start the manual level. That should hopefully insure that you aren't all the way tight or all the way loose when you start. Alternatively, tighten the rear all the way and then back off about5 full rotations. Then start manual leveling.