gr5

It's almost certainly your power brick. They are not cheap - around $90 or 90 euros. It's common for them to fail like this (not able to put out as much current as they could before). It has a computer in the power brick and the computer has a few sensors to keep it from self destructing or catching fire. Usually it shuts off due to high current but is it possible in your case that it is a heat releated issue? If it is on top of some other warm piece of equipment? I doubt it but it's a consideration. Keep the brick in the shade in as cool an area as possible. Anyway you probably need another power brick. Meanwell GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B Above are the 2 power supplies that work for the UM3. The one without the "T" can put out significantly more power even though they are both rated for the exact same amount of power. The "T" one is, I believe, safer because it shuts off at lower power usage.

This works on S5? Very cool. @Smithy maybe you could add a feature that installs postfix and then installs the above script? Ha ha - your tool is getting more and more complicated all the time. 🙂

What does it say on the printer itself? Usually there is a message on the display.

Well maybe you should post more pictures of the printer. Including a photo of the serial number.

There are about 4 things you can do to fix this. Brim is only one of them but you will probably have to do all 4. Your part is unusually difficult being a solid block but it can definitely be done! Don't give up. It's complicated so I made a video to explain in detail why the problem happens, quick summary of what to do and then detailed video of what to do. Yes it's kind of a long video but it's packed with crucial info much of which you will need:

M600, M601 are not Marlin gcodes. I mean, Marlin does not support those and this printer is *mostly* Marlin. Neither M0 nor M1 work? Did you try M0? There are 2 computers inside the UM2+C and they each take gcodes. There is the linux computer that reads the gcode file first and then sends the gcodes to the second computer through I think USB cable. The second computer is running Marlin. Some of the commands are sent onto the second computer, but some are blocked and dealt with by the first. So for example on the UM3/S3/S5, (yes I know you have a single nozzle printer) the T0 and T1 commands are likely converted to multiple gcodes to move the print head over to the nozzle switching device. They might be implemented on the Marlin board but I think they are implemented (at least partially) on the linux computer. Anyway to my point - @CarloK knows all this and knows if I'm wrong about the linux computer implementing some of the gcodes, but he may have copied and pasted the above list from the Marlin computer and possibly M0 is implemented by the linux computer. Possibly? I mean I think the linux computer has to do the actual pausing because it controls the display. Therefore the M0 command doesn't need to be part of implemented Marlin gcodes. So I'd give it a shot.

When you get your stepper, if it turns backwards, you can swap just 2 wires to fix that - the two in either pair. So pick one pair, remove those 2 in put them back the other way. Or you can get the "tinkergnome" marlin firmware which allows you to swap stepper direction in the menu on the printer.

Well it will have the wrong connector but if you don't mind soldering wires go for it. You don't need quite the exact same part number as much of that has to do with the wiring/connector and the shaft. Inspect the shaft photo carefully before buying. Ultimaker original, UM2, UM2+, UM2go, UM2 extended - basically UM2 family of printers all use the same steppers for X and Y.

@benson - I'm confused - did the error have chinese in it? Or did you translate to chinese? If you translated, please get the original, untranslated message, thank you.

You should contact your reseller as they can give you links to the latest images but I have links to a couple old ones here plus detailed instructions on how to deal with an Ultimaker S5/S3/UM3 that won't boot: gr5.org/unbricking/

Your issue is most likely the sensor. If the heater fails it should give you an error message. And increased resistance anywhere in the sensor path gives you a higher temperature reading and so the printer things the bed is at the right temp when in reality it is cooler. The sensor chip itself (PT100) is pretty much indestructable. It's usually somewhere on the path from under the printer to the sensor. The most common failure point by far is the connector on the board itself. It sounds like you have some electronic skills. If so it's actually pretty trivial to fix. Take the bed apart - remove the 3 leveling screws. Memorize or photograph or write down where the washer and stuff go. The hardware at the 3 points is identical. Take the bed apart and then check out the connector. There are a few types. The older types fail more often and the connector is soldered to the board. If that is your case then remove the cable and reflow the solder at all 4 points although the sensor is the smaller traces and the smaller wires. it could be that just removing and inserting the cable will fix the problem as the problem can occur at the wire portion of the connector. The problem can also be at the other end of the wire under the printer. Or it can even be on the traces of the circuit board - you might have to run two small wires from the connector to the pt100. That has happened to one or two people. But usually reflowing the solder at the connector is the solution.

Technically it's none of those. Ultimaker got a slightly customized one with some connectors removed and a USB connector swapped with a different type of connector. Someone at Ultimaker told me the board is basically this one: UM3 / S5: A20-OLinuXIno-LIME2-n8G for €48 (aka olimex lime2 with these features). I'm not 100% sure that's all correct if you go to olimex.com they explain the numbers. A20 and lime2 are definitely correct. 8G is the overall memory and that's enough. n is for nand memory, e is for eMMc memory. I have a demo S5 that came with the eMMc memory but you will want to get the "n" type as that is what the latest firmware expects and does better with. But you will need to remove some parts and change the USB connector. You can steal the USB connector from your old broken board. or maybe you can't??? You can save some money by ordering the UM3 olimex and put it in your S5 but you have to change something in the eeprom. Also if you order the board from olimex it won't have the printer type saved into the eeprom. I have instructions on how to save the printer type into the eeprom here: gr5.org/unbricking/ Jump down to the part "can't I just buy"

You can do either but the Ultimaker one will come with the correct electrical connector. It looks like you are in Europe. Contact the reseller that sold you the printer or any reseller in your part of the world. If you don't buy from Ultimaker I'm going to guess 10 euros each in bulk (10 at a time) and 20 euros each if you buy just one. If you aren't in a rush and want to save as much money as possible consider trying aliexpress. Ultimaker charges about 30 euros for these for the UM2+.

Ultimaker sells I believe only 2 types of support material: PVA (soluable in water) and Breakaway (it snaps off when the print is done). I'm guessing you are talking about PVA? it's transluscent - foggy. Almost clear. PVA needs to be kept exceedingly dry. Even just one day out in normal air is enough for it to absorb significant amounts of water from the air. One tiny desiccant pack won't help much either once it has been exposed to the air. One sign the PVA is too wet is it snaps and pops and hisses and you can actually often see steam coming out at the nozzle tip while it prints. The PVA ends up being snowy instead of clear because it has tiny steam bubbles embedded (hence the snowy look). If it's only a "little" wet you won't notice the noise or steam but it will still be snowier than usual. When PVA is wet like this it expands too much and so it overextrudes. Enough to get lots of stringing and other issues like "not sticking well to the bed". It's easy to fix with heat. In cura look up how many meters of PVA are needed for your print. Unspool that much, place on the heated bed, put the spool on top (no need to cut the PVA). Put a towel over all that and another blanket on top of that and heat at 70C for 4 hours. That should be enough to get you going on your print. To dry the whole spool, dry it for 24-48 hours (not necessarily all at once). Going forwards keep it in a 2 gallon zip lock with LOTS of desiccant. And recharge the desiccant every month. I buy it in liter jugs and store it in a container with a lid that stops the desiccant from coming out but allows air exchange. I use color changing dessicant that can be reheated (dried) in the microwave.

Update - here's an easier way to disable this feature:

Great news, Smithy created this wonderful tool:

You shouldn't need to take the head apart - it's unlikely it's the bearing in the head but it could be. Those are linear bearings - designed for a rod to slide through but not rotate. They contain ball bearings inside. Instead, remove the head by the method mentioned above (just takes a few seconds) and then slide the rods back and forth through the head to feel the resistance. Again - no need to take the head apart. More likely the problem is one of the 4 X-axis bearings pressed into the wall or one of the two sliding block (x axis sliding blocks) bearings. If you have the X stepper out then that makes it even easier to feel the friction issue. If there isn't more friction in X than Y with the X motor out then the problem is in the stepper which was your first guess.

Also beware that some bearings seem fine once you remove the load. All those belts are applying a load because they are pulling pretty hard.

I watched (and more importantly listened) to the videos. The "bad" sounds are surprisingly mild. I was expecting nasty bearing grinding sounds (sometimes a ball bearing breaks and you get shrapnel in there and then the other bearings start to grind up). So that didn't seem like the issue but it's hard to say. The stepper is almost certainly fine. It is supposed to have a lot of resistance to get over the first hurdle of magnetism and then it is relatively easy to turn. You can feel all the magenetic bumps when you turn them. These I think are 200 steps per rotation so you should feel 200 tiny magnetic bumps where it resists turning and then wants to turn 200 times per rotation. This is normal. I would say it's the stepper driver except for your most important clue: "X axis its hard to push". If the X feels different from the Y then there is certainly a problem. So there are quite a few things to check: 1) The 4 axle bearings situated in the walls of the printer. One of those could be bad. 2) By the way did you try adding a drop of oil? Normally you add one drop to each of the 3 rods associated with X axis movement. 3) The sliding block bearings - I've had issues with these before when one of the rods that passes through the blocks had gunk on it. These are just simple brass tubes (no ball bearings - no needle bearings) as they have to slip rotationally and linearly both. 4) The rod through the head. Trust the friction. You will know when it's fixed when the friction of the X axis is reduced. First I'd check #4 that the two rods going through the head are perpendicular. Sometimes you lose a step and the setscrews for some of the long belts need to be loosened, the rods made perpendicular and then retightened. Then I'd remove the print head. With zero tools you can snap the 2 rods out of the sliding blocks, then rotate the print head 45 degrees and it comes out and can be put aside. Test movement to see if there is still friction. If so then isolate - start loosening the set screws for the long belts to isolate each side and test #3.

Yes. You don't need a printer to run cura. When you launch it, you can choose among many many printer types although the experience is the same for most of the printers. Then get a model to slice from thingiverse or design your own part and open the model with cura and slice it.

Nice job @Smithy. For other people out there: I tested the linux version on my S5 (version 5.7.2) and it worked well. I have done a few prints and both features (disabling active leveling and not waiting for cooldown) work and have saved me time already.

Can't you just collect both error messages and if one is successful and the other is not then say it was successful. If both messages give an error then you can say the command was not successful.

You need to do that on every layer. And if the part takes up a huge part of the bed you have to be careful not to touch down too close to your part. And if the part is tall enough it will eventually be sticking up through the gantry when you are drawing this "purge line". But what you *can* do is disable prime tower. You get these tiny "sausages" when the nozzle that isn't in use extrudes a little bit. One on each layer but if you don't care about having perfect quality it's fine. And if you have a um3/s5/s3 they are pretty dialed in now (for the basic pla/pla and pla/pva profiles) that you can pretty much get away with no prime tower.

The S5 does "active calibration" every time you start a print. It squishes the first layer down extra hard on purpose because if you don't then the part is more likely to come loose during a print which can cause a "head flood" which is very nasty to repair. It looks like your second bowden is missing which is fine if you are doing single-filament prints.

Oh I just checked. It's nethier. It's "Save project...".