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You show an all text output but I hope you are using pronterface which is a GUI. It has a home button shaped like a house. You can move the axis by clicking the arrows. Is that what you are using? The temperature error may have been caused by you putting UMO+ firmware on a UMO. Make sure you have the UMO printer. So is the nozzle heating up properly now? I'm guessing yes. So is the display still not working? You can print through pronterface if you want but it would be nice if you could get the display to work. If you can connect just fine through pronterface but the display still shows nothing then I would try to adjust the contrast on the controller. Here is the assembly manual for the UMO. You can use this to check things like the temperature sensor connections (often one of the wires falls out on top of the print head). https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012029639-Assembling-the-Ultimaker-Original So assuming: 1) printer homes all 3 axes 2) printer heats up the nozzle Then please show a photo of your feeder - people often get confused about how to close the feeder onto the filament. It should be VERY tight against the filament. Try heating up the nozzle only using pronterface to 200C and then try turning the gear to push the filament through the nozzle. Make sure you can get filament to squirt out the nozzle. If that is working then your feeder is probably closed properly and you can try leveling and then try making a print. To level set Z position to zero by homing it and the nozzle should just touch the print bed. If not then adjust the 4 leveling screws. Move the print head around to make sure the print bed and the nozzle are coplanar (such that the nozzle just barely hits the print bed everywhere. Then try printing something. Start small.

I have an S5 but not the MS. My best guess is you are printing PVA and the filament has absorbed water. Even though you have humidity control for the PVA, it's enough to keep it dry but not to dry it once it absorbs water. The next time you do a PVA print look in cura how many meters you need, then unspool that mount, put it on the heated bed under the spool and set the bed to 70C for 4 hours (or overnight). Put a towel or blanket or some cardboard over it. Then try that filament and see if your grinding goes away. Or if it's not PVA and not Nylon then try printing the second core slower. Just go into the TUNE menu while it's printing and you can lower the speed for only the second core to 50%. If that fixes it then maybe you just need to get a new core for the right slot.

Yes. Make sure to heat shrink insulation or some other way to insulate it. If it shorts out it could destroy the FET on the PCB that switches the heat on and off.

Well it's usually the wiring at the bed. But it could also be underneath the printer where the cabling attaches to the PCB. Do you have a friend with a multimeter and knows how to use it? You should invite such a person over for dinner and debugging. This kind of thing takes 10 minutes to isolate. If you don't then assume it's the connector at the bed. Take the bed apart by removing the 3 leveling screws. Keep careful notes about how it goes back together. There is a hidden washer underneath in the grease so examine it carefully as you take it apart. Sometimes you can just remove the cabling and put it back in. The heater is the larger 2 cables. Usually you have to reflow the solder where the connector connects to the heated bed. Similarly at the other end, sometimes you just have to remove the cables, possibly clean them if they are covered in black carbon, and then put them back in. If you have a volt meter you can test how far the 24V travels - does it make it out to the connector but not to the heated bed? You could also disconnect the heated bed and make sure the resistance is correct. Somewhere around 4 ohms I think? If it's over 10 ohms then something is wrong. I doubt the bed itself is broken but if you bent it severely it could break one of the traces.

It looks like you are talking about an Ultimaker 2. You probably have the same issue. One of the heaters isn't working anymore. Try going through the menus and heat up just the nozzle. It should start increasing in temperature rapidly within 5 seconds. If that seems to be working then try the bed. That takes more like 20 seconds to go up 1 or 2 degrees. So step 1 is to figure out if it's the bed, the nozzle, or some weird software state. If it's a weird software state you can try doing a "factory reset". Be warned you will have to relevel the bed after.

I think something was lost in translation? Maybe try google translate?

This is great. Be warned that if you upgrade Cura you will lose that work you did so document what you did very well. Also be warned that if you upgrade your printer firmware you will lose the change you did there as well (although that seems much simpler).

That's all very nice and good but a lot of work it seems. There is a MUCH simpler solution. First of all realize that the profiles are not some magic thing. nylon with glass fibers prints at the same exact settings as plain nylon. Most profiles are not heavily researched. So here's what you do: Select AA 0.4 core. Select any generic nylon. Set "line width" to 0.6 (all the line widths). Slice it. Print it. There will be a complaint about the wrong kind of printcore. Ignore it. Okay - I just realized this is my advice for UM3 printers with 3dsolex cores that are programmed as AA 0.4. The printer might not allow the ignore step? I'm not certain. If that's a problem then I can help you reprogram the CC core to look like AA 0.4. But I don't think that is necessary. I think you can just tell the printer to ignore the fact that it's not the expected core. So the premise behind all this is that the "generic nylon AA 0.4" profile difference from "nylon GF CC 0.6" profile by only the tiny change that you change line width from 0.4 to 0.6.

If it's only the first layer that is underextruding then you need to relevel. Did you do the leveling procedure? You could just skip the leveling procedure and instead rotate the 3 knobs on the bed CCW (as seen from below) by about one half of a full turn. Maybe less. When you are an expert you can do that on the fly while it's printing the bottom layer. Leveling the bed is somewhere in the menus but I forget where. maybe under Bed or Maintenance.. I think it's next to where you can set the bed temperature. It's not hard to find. Or maybe you *did* follow the procedure but just levelled it a bit too high (nozzle too high off the bed). Either way you need to turn those 3 knobs counter clockwise as seen from below to raise the bed up about 0.1mm or .2mm. Each full turn raises the bed 0.5mm. Turn all the the same amount if you aren't going to be running the leveling procedure.

The only thing I know for sure is that the gap in the walls, the "delamination issue" is underextrusion. That is a very common sign of mild underextrusion. Even if the part looks perfect everywhere else. And the part doesn't look fine everywhere else - I see underextrusion on the top layers as well. You can find the ratio of the gap to the lines by measuring with a micrometer on a blown up version of your images and figure out what percentage underextruded. I'm going to guess 15%. It's nice to know it's in the print core only although that isn't 100%. A good feeder should overcome some of the deficiencies in the core. Just to further eliminate the feeder - I recommend fighting the feeder. So lift the lever and pull the filament half way down the tube then on the touch screen do "MOVE" material to energize the feeder and then fight the feeder by pulling down on the filament. You can even turn the dial in the MOVE menu while fighing it. Try to get it to skip. You shouldn't be able. The S5 feeder can pull about 15 pounds or about 7kg. This is rough. 5lbs of force should be enough (barely) for good prints normally. 10 pounds is excellent. 15 pounds is nominal. So do this quick test. Maybe grab a weight so you can compare the amount of force against a known weight. Or you can grip the filament to a weight and let the weight do the pulling. Also hopefully you are doing default temps and speeds. Printing too fast or too cold can cause underextrusion. And it could be partly a bowden issue. You should replace those every 1000 hours of printing or so I think. That leads us to the core. Really I expect it is buildup on the inside of the nozzle in that narrow passage. That passage that is only 0.4mm in diameter may now be 0.3mm. I'm not really sure how to clean that out. Cold pulls comes to mind but that gunk can be stuck. You could take the core apart and burn out the nozzle. It will be weaker (the brass no longer tempered if it gets above around 500C) but the brass is stronger than necessary anyway. I have a youtube video. Anyway, if it were me, I would just increase the flow to 110% and increase the temp by +5C. All of which you can do from the tune menu live. This should help you get another 100 hours of prints maybe. Or you could use a hypodermic to scrape the inside of the tip of the nozzle while it is hot on the printer or right after a good cold pull that leaves the nozzle tip empty. Another possibility of course is the temp sensor. Any increase in resistance (contacts where print core meets the printer for example) will make the temp look high which means it will print colder than desired. You could try this video which is for PLA to get an estimate of the temp. I don't know any other way to check the temp. PLA softens at a much more consistent temperature than you might expect:

Es gibt nicht viel Unterschied. Einer wird von 3dsolex und der andere von Ultimaker hergestellt. 3dsolex verkauft seit einigen Jahren Teile. Ich habe das 3dsolex-Teil und es ist in Ordnung. 3dsolex.com

If things are working well with pronterface and swapping ribbon cables doesn't help then I would play with the contrast on the ulticontroller. But you have to remove the cover. There's a tiny potentiometer in there.

Many people have plugged the two ribbon cables in backwards without damaging anything. I think the red line on the edge of the ribbon cable helps with alignment but I don't remember the details. Typically the red line is for pin 1 which is often marked in very tiny writing on the circuit board or on the plastic connectors. Or both. I think the connectors actually only go in one way. But the cables can be accidentally swapped. Is this primary school or university? Try again with pronterface. Make sure it is set for COM3 (actually that may change each time you plug it in but typically it stays the same if you plug into the same usb port each time on the same computer). Make sure the baud rate is 115200 (or the next slower speed - 57600 - try both). I think maybe you hit "connect" somewhere. When you do connect it will suddenly report lots of information such as the version of Marlin that is running and lots of parameters like max speed, acceleration and many other things. Then you can move a motor or check the temperature of the nozzle or turn on the nozzle heater. Extruder will not rotate unless you "allow cold extrudes" or heat it to 190C.

Good job! You make it sound easy but I know that rebuilding Marlin is a pretty big deal. I'm glad you were able to follow my (long!) instructions and then get it installed onto your printer.

That's great. I don't think you can do better than that. Now are you using the "engineering" profile to print with? This profile gives you some pretty good improvements (at the cost of beauty as you will get more ringing but it won't be measureable with a caliper so -- better dimensional accuracy). If so then I would stop messing with the printer and correct remaining errors in CAD. The errors you see may scale or they may not. Probably both - some of that 20.23 error is a scaling error and will be 40.46 (exactly double) if you print a 40mm cube. Some of that error will not scale so it won't be exactly 40.46. It could be that most of the error doesn't scale. Unless you do at least 2 different sized prints you won't know if the error scales or not. So if you really need accuracies better than 0.2mm then you really need to fix things in CAD. This is how it is done with injection molding. The engineer hands the injection molded company a "perfect" cad model and then they are experts at adjusting the model to work with injection molding. They even have to change crazy things like the angles of surfaces. 90 degree angles in the original cad need to be changed to a different angle so that when the part pops out of the mold the edge is 90 degrees again. Unfortunately this is true with 3d printing as well. If you want that kind of accuracy you need to fix it in cad. No one likes to hear this but it's the best solution. Trying to adjust the scale by changing "steps/mm" on the printer or trying to scale the part in Cura will result in more problems then it is worth. For example all vertical holes in all your parts need to be enlarged by about 0.4mm. This will be your next frustration with dimensional accuracy as it's a huge discrepency between CAD and what you get out of the printer. This is true with all FFF printers (printers that melt plastic and squirt out of a nozzle). It has to do with how 3d printing works and the properties of thermoplastics.

Okay - yeah that's pretty bad. You have an "Ultimaker Original". Not a plus. So you need to exit cura for pronterface to work. They can't both access the USB at the same time. You didn't show me pronterface in the video. I hope you already know that. Okay so no text on the screen. Sometimes the contrast is off on the screen so badly that you see nothing but I suspect that is not the problem. Contrast control is only accessible if you remove the wooden covering of the ulticontroller. If you spin the knob and push on the knob you typically hear clicking and beeping sounds but that can be disabled. It might be that the previous owner disabled that feature but I doubt it. So here is the first idea - it's possible the two cables are backwards. The 2 ribbon cables going from the printer to the controller. The cables can be inserted 4 different ways. By the way never leave the bottom cover off the circuit board with power on! The fan is very important! First download the pdf manual for the printer here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012029639-Assembling-the-Ultimaker-Original OH MY GOD THAT MANUAL SUCKS! The original manual - I can't find it. It was online only. It was a wiki. Anyone could edit it and any errors would be undone by ultimaker staff. Don't download that manual. Okay well just try swapping the 2 ribbon cables underneath the printer. Often people disconnect those for transportation. I would only power on for 5 seconds at the most (takes 1 second for display to fully boot up). If that doesn't help then switch the cables back. If it's not the cables then it's the arduino. The arduino can function all by itself. I would remove the arduino and order a new one. They cost maybe $10. Maybe less. Make sure you get the same type. After you remove the arduino you can inspect it to find out what type of arduino it is. Even if you don't plug power into the printer, if you plug in the USB that should be enough to run the arduino and to power up the ulticontroller display. And even if the display is broken, the arduino should respond through the USB cable. It is possible the Arduino is fine. Cura doesn't work very well through the USB cable. Pronterface works great but you need to have the right baudrate. I think it's 115200? Something similar to that number. Try the top 3 fastest baudrates. Make sure the COM port shows up in windows device manager. When you plug the USB cable into a computer you should hear the windows sound that a USB device was just connected. The same sound as if you plug in a mouse or keyboard. If you don't know this sound then do it right now - unplug then replug in the mouse (or keyboard). Then do this with the UMO and if you hear the sound then that's a good start. Go to "device manager" and look for a new COM port that appears when you plug in the UMO. If that doesn't happen then you may need to install a different arduino driver. Do a google search on "which arduino usb driver should I be using?" or something like that. There are literally millions of people who use arduinos through usb cables and there is one driver that doesn't work so well. So it's not to hard to find info using google. Anyway if the COM port shows up then your arduino may be fine. It will be like COM3 or COM6 or COM11 or similar. Values above around COM6 won't work with Cura usually but work great with printrun/pronterface. If after struggling you can't get a COM port I would buy a new arduino. Note that you will have to install the UMO firmware onto the new arduino. Through the USB cable. You can do that through pronterface or through Cura. Make sure you install UMO firmware and not UMO+ firmware (or UM2 firmware).

A print sliced for a um2go will print just fine on a UM2 (although somewhat towards the corner). There may be a more serious reason. Possibly the spacing between the nozzles is part of the gcode and that may be different on the S3 versus S5? I doubt it. Or maybe the gantry height is different which would mean there would be a few rare gcode files that are printed "one at a time" meaning 2 or more parts printed one then the other but on one of the printers the part is just tall enough that the cross bars will knock it over when it goes to print the second part. The acceleration excuse... is complicated. If you turn off acceleration and jerk control it doesn't matter a huge amount as the printer itself has safe defaults. But the profiles do have tuned values to reduce ringing if you have accel and jerk control enabled. Also the time estimation to complete a print may be different on the 2 printers if they have different accel/jerk defaults. if. Again - minor issue but customers complain about the seemingly smallest things. A huge reason is most likely testing. Testing the S5 profile on an S3 is a pain! And doing vice versa. There are already hundreds of profiles to test. Imagine doubling your work testing S5 profiles on S3 and the other way around!

It's better if you split each problem into a separate thread. Include photos of the part that isn't working as there are different versions of things like the temperature sensor in the nozzle. Screenshots of the problem in Pronterface might be helpful also. Actually a single photo of the bottom of your printer and a single photo of the entire print head will be helpful. If I don't respond within 12 hours send me a direct message with a link to your topic.

Yes. You want to use pronterface. Also known as printrun. It allows you to control every individual part through a USB cable. So install pronterface on a PC or mac - preferably a laptop because you need to connect the PC to your printer through a usb cable (you can always pick up the whole printer and bring it to the computer). Get pronterface here. It's free: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ It's not an install actually - just copy the files anywhere and double click on "pronterface". Then do "connect" and if that works you have HUGE control over your printer that you didn't before. Home the axis and then type in gcodes like this: G1 X100 So some things are easily controlled by clicking a button. Other things you need to do gcodes. Here is a list of the gcodes. UMO and UMO+ has Marlin firmware. So when looking at these gcodes only pay attention to ones that are supported by Marlin: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

You shouldn't have to unscrew anything on the feeder. The bowden comes off on both ends and you can use another piece of filament to push existing filament through the bowden if you can't reach any of the filament. Also if you lift the arm on the feeders now you can just easily slide filament through the feeders.

Beware that under the bottom are deadly voltages. Be careful under there. Did you follow Erin's advice? She's probably the most knowledgable person on the planet regarding this particular issue. Seriously. She's built and repaired S5's. She's helped hundreds of people fix them. She works for the company that assembles every S5 sold in USA. So take her advice very seriously.

Ultimaker printers have very high acceleration and jerk because the print head is light weight compared to most printers. This reduces overextrusion on corners. Corners can bump out if you have low acceleration because as the head slows down at the corners, the pressure in the nozzle doesn't reduce fast enough so you get bumped out corners. If you measured the bulged corners and that was the issue than speed up accel and jerk by unchecking and the printer will use the defaults which are much faster. The downside is now you get lots of ringing as I said. Anyway you weren't measuring the corners. So I'm still sticking with my pulley theory. That is a very common problem. If the pulley is drilled in the center within 0.3mm then that could easily cause errors of 0.3mm. 0.3mm is pretty damn tiny error for a pulley that is being drilled out.

I have ubuntu 18.04.6 LTS and Cura 4.12.1 has been fine but I haven't tried 4.13 yet. I'm glad Ultimaker is fixing this before I even tried upgrading. 🙂

Something like 99% of "cheap" 3d printers out there use Marlin firmware and the same CPU (atmega 2560) and the same USB chips and drivers. Including I'm sure FlashForge and definitely Ultimaker. Something about the hardware or software (not sure which) is a bit unreliable. Yes you can do 500 prints in a row without issues on some printers but other printers made by the same company have seriously high error rates over USB when printing. Because of this Ultimaker gave up and stopped officially supporting USB printing. I have to agree with them - maybe you think it's a pain to walk that SD card over to your printer but it will save you so much headache. Also if you have a windows computer - god - they tend to reboot for the most annoying reasons some of which you can not control such as operating system updates, security updates, critical updates. Yes in theory you can turn off screen savers, lower power savers, and windows updates but they always find a way to screw you over and reboot when you step away from the machine. Then there is adobe updates, and every other software on your computer that might just decide to reboot your computer in the middle of a print. Then there is just slowdowns in your browser if you are working with the computer while it prints. Another great option for some people is raspberry pi and octoprint. For about $25 you can get a cheap raspberry pi. It is a complete linux computer. Put octoprint on it (lots of instructions out there) and connect that to your printer with a serial cable. The Raspberry Pi is now on your network and has it's own web page. You can control your printer completely through that web page - set temperature, set hundreds of parameters, and you can print an STL file and even watch what layer of your print is being printed live. For some reason that I don't understand, Raspberry Pi is MUCH more reliable than any laptop or desktop windows computer printing through USB. I haven't verified this but I hear a lot of stories.

Wow that sound frustrating. I have to tell you that most people don't have this amount of pain with leveling. If I were you I would definitely switch to manual leveling. There is a tool here to switch back and forth. note that, at least for my version of the firmware, after I do a manual level the next time I print it hangs up at the start trying to warm up so I have to power cycle. I think it has to do with the fact that the bed is still warm? Nah - that doesn't make sense. Also you have to manual level pretty much after every change in cores unless you are very careful not to touch the 3 leveling screws at all after the first manual level. how can you do that? You just don't touch them, lol. If you do move to manual leveling and you want to stop leveling every time you change cores you can ask me again later and I'll try to explain better I suppose.