gr5

If they are failing by a LARGE amount then yes, they could definitely be interfering with each other. But I doubt it as Ultimaker and lots of places have these printers side by side. Interference goes down by the square of distance so if you can move them such that they are just 10% farther apart that might be plenty to make the problem go away. Again - this is why you want to know if they are only slightly failing (probably one core somewhere is the wrong length) or if they fail by a lot.

So the difference in nozzle height of the left core versus the right core (when down) should be 1.5mm+/- 0.7mm. It could be that you are right on the edge. Or it could be failing by a lot. I would look at the logs. If you look in the log file you can see exactly what the printer measured for the left and right cores. This is from an old log file below - you can get these many ways - one way is to insert a USB flash drive and there is an option (I think in maintenance menu) to dump all the log files to the USB. These log files on your printer will typically have the last few days (weeks?) of data. You can very quickly locate just the "active level" portions by searching through the files for the word "peak" and "Preliminary" as shown here: Actually first search for "height difference between nozzles is too large" as that is the message that occurs right when the error happens. Write down the date and time and *then* search for "peak" and "Preliminary" and look to see if even the passing tests *almost* fail. So if it almost fails everytime and only fails by a tiny bit then your active leveling sensor is probably fine and you have other issues - maybe you need to regrease the core where it fits into the holder or maybe your cores are different heights! If it fails by a huge amount then maybe it is failing the lift switch change (unlikely as you would probably have many other errors if you did 2 filament prints?). First lets narrow the problem down to "only fails a little" to "fails by a lot".

@ahoeben I believe understands this pretty well. Maybe he can explain.

Or maybe the firmware is borked and you just need to reload the firmware one more time.

yeah the threshold is probably 2.5V so above 3V for normal and below 1V for closed is definitely close enough. Well you could check the other side of R111 or just remove that cap (C92) in case it shorted out (unlikely) but I think the mega2560 chip is dead. This is extremely rare. Bad news.

Did you go to the ultimaker.com/ER05 web page as suggested? There are some good ideas there. If those don't pan out, maybe remove and re attach the connector to J6? I guess I would use the below schematic and check out TP80. It should be 5V when the switch isn't triggered and 0V when the bed is down. If those voltages are correct then it's probably the "arduino" chip. Meaning you need another PCB.

It has been done by foehnsturm. A community member. It's not a simple process but I did it. I got it working and then removed it. But it did work pretty well. You will have to 3d print a mold for the silicone wheel and buy the sensor and connect it up. It's not too bad but will take a few days. The frimware is pretty good. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22632-flow-sensor-for-the-um2-and-even-perhaps-for-the-um3-call-for-pilot-users/ It has not taken off. It's just not useful enough I suppose? Maybe not dependable enough for all filaments? For me mostly I converted that UM2 to use a redeem controller. And my 3 um2go's - well the filament comes in at a steep angle and I don't think the filament sensor would work well in a UM2go unless the filament was on the floor. And I don't do long prints. Most of my prints are 30 to 120 minutes.

1) Please post your project file (which will include the model). Or at least post the model. I don't understand the shape. Is it supposed to be spherically curved? (in cura "file" "save project as"). 2) Putting the tower closer to the part doesn't just save time. During that travel time the nozzle can leak. The shorter the travel, the better.

"print thin walls" worked for your project that you posted. Note that having the letters stick inwards will have a better quality/readable text but this looks like a stamp so I don't think that's an option. Also if you print them on a vertical wall (make the stamp square and print vertically) that usually increases quality but only I suppose if it sticks out just a tiny bit (0.3mm). So assuming this is a stamp then just check "print thin walls" and you will be all set.

I think you will find the quality of letters and numbers increases greatly if you have them go into the part instead of sticking out. Also if you put them on a side wall of a part it's even better. I usually have them stick into the part by 0.3mm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k

I only have a few seconds but yes it could be too small. Is the text thicker than one layer height? Obviously it needs to be at least that. Also maybe it's too thin - try checking "print thin walls". Try setting line width to 0.1 as a quick experiment.

By the way there is also "infill" which is similar to support but inside the model and part of the final model. Whereas supports are removed and thrown away.

Ah. That's called "support". It is printed material to support your part. I'd love to see a screenshot of your part and maybe also the support. But why not let the librarian worry about support? Presumably they are using Cura and have done this before and know what does and doesn't need supports. One popular support option is "tree support". It would be really nice to be able to export that but I don't think it's possible. You aren't the first to ask for the ability to export tree support.

Beware of scams. A buyer on this forum lost a lot of money to a scammer recently. Photo of license is not good enough. This post does not fit the profile but still...

The walls can tilt a little. But they should end all in the same plane at the top. In other words it's that ceiling that needs to be flat.

Maybe @nallath could help you with this question.

Blender should be able to output your part as an stl file. Or if you have multiple parts, multiple stl files (select each separate part and extrude them one at a time ). Or you can export multiple parts into one big stl file (usually called a "plate of parts"). Or if your part has multiple colors and the library printer can handle 2 colors you export each of the 2 colors as a separate stl file and the slicer will put them back together. I mention multiple colors only because you mentioned multiple extruders.

Well stl files are the standard - all slicers can read an stl file. You can export your part as an stl file and any slicer out there can read it. One problem with your posts is the way you use the word "extruders". I don't think you are using the right word here. Do you mean colors? filament types? gcodes? I'm thinking you mean the gcode commands. You don't want to put those into a model file if the library is doing the slicing. An "extruder" is the part of the printer that heats the plastic and squirts it out. Some printers have 2 or more extruders so you can do multi colored prints or one material may be dissolvable support material to support the part while printing.

How to remove them manually first you have to find them - not easy! Install "repetier host" software (I believe it works on windows, mac, linux). Save the gcode in cura when you are happy with everything else. Open the gcode in repetier host ("file" "load gcode"). You should have a split screen with the gcode shown graphically on the left and actual gcode on the right. In the graphics window use mouse drag, and shift mouse drag, and scroll wheel to zoom in on the top layer. In the right window scroll to the very end of the gcode and then click on the last line and use the up arrow held down on the keyboard and scroll through the ending code rapidly and look on the left and watch the little yellow line move backwards showing the last layer. Stop when you get to that line that goes across. Unfortunately that is 3 printing movements - not one - due to the curvy nature of things I suppose? Or maybe you have coasting enabled? Anyway: G1 X216.737 Y165.461 Z134.656 E990.47352 G1 X211.437 Y164.251 Z134.699 E1011.94589 G1 X209.329 Y163.815 Z134.716 E1020.44822 G1 X163.772 Y165.461 Z135.081 E1200.5052 G1 X164.682 Y164.52 E1205.41692 I included an extra above and below. It's the 3 middle moves that need to be changed to a non-extruding move. The x,y,z values are where to move the nozzle position. The E value is how much to extrude. You want to stop extruding for those middle 3. You can just delete two of them and have it move right to the end. In this case the move is mostly in X direction so you can just look at that column. From first to second in moves only 5mm, then 2mm then about 44mm (to position 163). then it's a short move to position 164. So here's the fix - I got rid of the first 2 moves (not mandatory - you could instead add a G92 before each) and then I added the G92 just before the last move - that tells the printer "hey I know you think the extruder is at position 990.47352 mm because that's where you just moved the extruder to. but actually you are at 1200.5052 so you don't need to extrude any on this next move". I hope that makes sense. You have to repeat this for 10 sections of the gcode which would be extremely hard to find without repetier host. G1 X216.737 Y165.461 Z134.656 E990.47352 G92 E1200.5052 G1 X163.772 Y165.461 Z135.081 E1200.5052 G1 X164.682 Y164.52 E1205.41692 A nice thing about repetier is you don't have to open a text editor to make the changes but can make the changes right in repetier-host and there is a very tiny save button above the gcode portion. You can also see that those blue lines go to a lighter cyan indicating it's now a non-extruding move.

There is another option! You could fix the cad by hand. It's only 10 lines you need to remove. manually. hold on...

Okay I see the problem. It looks like this is a clay printer? And you have spiralize turned on which is great for cups and vases and similar shapes. But the top of your object is tilted. So those lines are part of the wall. If you change "color scheme" to "line type" in preview mode you can see that those lines across the top are red which means they are wall. spiralize disables the top layer (I guess you can't print those as clay probably would just fall into the dish). Here is what you get if you disable spiralize and enable one top layer: I don't know how to fix this other than making the top flat. With the top tilted cura sees that as a wall even though the wall is more horizontal than vertical. Spiralize and "no top layers" and "no infill" is a hack and limits what types of prints you can make. For printing plastic I would model the part in CAD to have no top and it would have the wall thickness modeled in CAD and I'd disable spiralize and turn top layers back on. So in cad you would remove the top and thicken the walls and give ceilings to every wall (very very thin ceilings). You would also have to "enable thin walls" and you might actually want to use the beta version of cura arachne (version 5 beta) which can do I believe single-pass-walls. The only other way to get single pass walls is to do what you are already doing. But now you won't get such a beautiful and perfect contour print as the walls will be two passes (again, unless you use cura 5 which is in beta but seems to work okay - there's a new beta version coming out any moment now I think - maybe it came out this morning).

Those aren't travel lines. That's either infill or top-skin. Could you please post your project? In cura do "file" "save as" and post that file to the forum. Project files contain your model (stl) and all your settings including printer settings, profile, overrides, model position, model scaling - basically everything I need to recreate what you show above. I think there might be something wrong with your model? Maybe. Or it's a settings issue.

The feeder is pushing hard on the filament upwards into the bowden. Typically with 2-5 pounds of force. The hot end is at high pressure and so pushing back with a similar force. These 2 forces combined are both pushing upwards. Sometimes this upward force can push the bowden right out of the printer. But normally not. Still the filament is pushing up mostly near the top of the arc of the bowden. Quite hard. Typically 4-10 pounds of force. Enough to lift the printer up into the air if the forces weren't also pushing down on the printer. So the filament is rubbing against the bowden. This causes friction. The bowden itself can get old and rough on the inside. It's good to replace the bowden. Maybe very 1000 to 3000 hours of printing (once every year for a printer used 8 hours every day). Even if the bowden is perfectly new this extra friction is part of your budget. When you use up all the budget the feeder stepper skips back a step or the filament simply slips through the feeder and you get underextrusion.

T0 T1 (je ne parles pas francais)