Dim3nsioneer

Does it make sense to buy one printer and make another printer out of it just by replacing every part? Isn't that just the most expensive way to buy a second printer?

If you still have some of the PLA left which came with the printer you could extend your test series to Ultimaker PLA. Be aware that there are differences not only between colors but also from spool to spool. @iroberti might be able to tell more about those effects.

@Eraser: @iroberti's picture shows the spacers I meant. Could you fix that pulley without screw in the meantime? If you need a new grub screw and have problem with getting it because it's metric you may get in contact with @valcrow. He is the Canadian distributor.

@Kevparang: Is your friend with the UM2 here on the forum? Maybe you could ask him to share his experience with us? Any structured feedback about issues with the Matchless products is welcome.

Why buying if you have a 3d printer to print them...? PLA is fine for those spacers, it won't get very hot there unless you completely close your printer.

Da es das, was Du möchtest, scheinbar nicht gibt: schreibe doch einen kleinen Contest mit einem hübschen Preis hier aus, dann schreibt Dir ev. jemand ein solches Programm. Einen weiteren Thread mit dem gleichen Thema aufmachen wird Dich vermutlich eher nicht weiterbringen. Waren da übrigens im alten Thread nicht doch ein paar schöne Lösungsansätze?

Can you please explain? What do you not recommend?

That's why I printed myself spacers with adjusted length so the pulleys stay where they don't grind.

Well, people like me who have two hotends (not necessarily for dual extrusion but as in my case for different filament diameters) use the steel coupler to adjust the height of the nozzle(s). An adjustable spacer as the one from @anders-olsson then helps to get a reasonable pressure onto each hotend. Personally, I like the spring and kept it for one hotend.

There is also an upgrade (I2K isolator) from 3dSolex which allows you to print up to 300°C after a firmware change.

When it is clean again you may want to check if the heater cartridge and the temperature sensor are still sitting properly inside the heater block.

are going to be there so looking at there machine as well Well, as long as you stay loyal to your UM2, it's ok. Just watching, not buying!

Download-Link is fixed.

Ahem. Big brother Ultimaker and especially small brother 3dSolex are seeing this...

Btw: I measured the 2.85mm by myself (with calipers). It's your decision if you trust me or not. The friendly woman from Ninjaflex at the AM show Europe explained me that Cheetah has been developed especially for Bowden tube printers. That's at them moment foremost Ultimaker and BCN3D's sigma.

The Cheetah sample I have from AM Show Europe is 2.85mm. However, I did not yet find the time to put it into my UM2.

There must have been a gap between TFM coupler and stainless steel coupler.

But they don't run on the first layer, do they?

How can I tell if I have this version or not? I can notice it before you mount it? By reading @Swordriff 's post carefully, especially the passage I emphased...

Disabling fans in Cura 2.1.2 works fine on my UM2.

Zusätzlich zu den von @Nicolinux geschriebenen Punkten drucke ich Teile, bei denen Bruch ein Thema ist, lieber mit nicht ganz 100% um dem Material etwas Platz zum Verteilen der Spannungen zu geben. Kann je nach Material aber auch der falsche Ansatz sein. Persönlich finde ich das relativ neue Cura-Feature der zusätzlichen Wand jede übernächste Schicht sehr interessant. Es ergibt eine gute Vernetzung zwischen Infill und Perimeter. Ein beheiztes Bett ist schon zu empfehlen: entweder das Ultimaker HBK oder ein Produkt eines Drittanbieters, das gute Referenzen hier im Forum hat.

@foehnsturm: Great use case! Is it more or less as flexible as a real human spine?

As @ultiarjan pointed out, a second-hand Ultimaker 2 which was well maintained might be a good candidate for you. If it has to be a new printer, then the Original+ would be the candidate. Advantage there is, as it comes as a kit, you'll know every screw personally which will help you a lot when you have to troubleshoot any hardware-related issue.

Don’t be too proud of this technological terror you’ve constructed. The ability to build an ISD is insignificant next to the power of this forum. Thanks for sharing those pics!

Matchless with 0.4mm and larger do have an internal structure; 0.25mm and smaller don't.