Dim3nsioneer

@msurunner: Assuming you mean the UM HBK. You drive it with both power supplies and do not have the Ultimaker shield power connected to the new pcb, correct? But you have made the logic connection with the cable which is mounted to the heater 3 (or bed heater) clamps on the UM shield pcb and by a connector to the HBK pcb, correct too? You also made sure you didn't mess up the connections on the heater pcb (print stage)? Then, as @zoev89 suggested, please check for a voltage signal on the heater pcb. If you get one and the bed still doesn't heat, you may check resistance between the connectors of the heater pcb when the printer is switched of and the heater pcb disconnected.

The best thing you maybe can do is to download the UMO HBK Marlin version from the Github repository and modifiy the configuration.h file with your tweaks. Then you can directly build and upload the firmware with the Arduino Software. In order to find out how you have to modify the configuration.h file you can download the zip file of your current configuration from Robotfuzz-Marlinbuilder which also includes a configuration.h file. But you cannot use this file directly out of the same reasons you already figured out. If you are working with Windows I can recommend Winmerge for comparing the two configuration.h files and move information/settings from one to the other.

So, you stuck with it? The modification and adapter were just means to mount it? Did you notice any difference in print quality? It's still in, yes. Difficult to say if print quality improved. I had an issue at that time which ruined the print quality (horizontal banding caused by the bang-bang mode of the heated bed). However, mounting the anti-backlash nut did not solve the issue. After the issue was solved I left the anti-backlash nut in. Quality is - hm - just perfect, as usual on my UM2... The modification and the adapter were necessary as I didn't want to drill any holes into the aluminum plate.

Yes, I used the exact anti-backlash nut on my UM2 which has the same heated bed. But I had to dismount the black part of the nut and mount the UM2 nut instead. And a printed adapter piece was needed.

You may try to add G0 X110 Y100 after the G28 command in your start.gcode.

I think this is maybe something where a community solution will be much faster...

What printer are you using? Assuming it's any kind of Ultimaker with short belts: Did you make sure they are tight? Are the steppers well audibly and visibly skipping steps? When the printer is switched off, can you push the print head around with your little finger or do you feel enormous resistances somewhere? Did the issue show up right from the beginning or after successful prints? If the latter is the case, did something happen to the printer?

Or you could do percentage of Basic Speed (e.g. 150%) and show the actual value in gray outside the control: Inner Shell Percent of Basic speed ___150___ (75mm/sec) I like + (X)mm/s rather than a percentage because I usually don't exceed 10mm/s over or under the set speed. I usually set it as +5 for infill -5 for outer perimeter regardless of speed. But I guess it's personal preference. You would get non-integer weird numbers if it was a percentage of the speed though. Perhaps in addition to this feature, it could detect your maximum volume extrusion required and warn you if your temperature is too low.. so at the default current settings, it should recommend you increase the temperature to 230C since it will be doing some parts at 85mm/s. Relative speed is something for Pink Unicorn. As nearly everything is built out of plugins, it should be possible to have the inputs as relative numbers. This will also have an impact on traditional plugins such as the TweakAtZ (which anyway needs to be rewritten for PU). I like the concept of having a basic speed and relative offsets. Maybe it should be selectable if the numbers represent mm or percentage. The additional feature you suggest would have to work with a threshold setting somewhere in Cura as different hotends/nozzles/nozzle sizes will have different thresholds. And don't forget different colors...

Roll them over a known flat surface (I used the stone top of my kitchen counter). If you realise you have bananas, replace them. I think they should not deviate from being straight by more than 0.05mm (assuming a usual print layer height of 0.1mm). I bought rods from Misumi for replacing the original on my UMO. They are not cheap but very straight.

I'll be there on Thursday and Friday for pretty sure.

If the word I put in italic would have been 'will' then yes. With 'may' there is not too much information in it... :(

For once, my login worked on first trial... @SandervG : Do we also have to transfer old missing pictures by ourselves or will this be done by Ultimaker? I would prefer the second as then old post don't have to be modified with new image numbers.

As many other UMO owners I was looking for a clever way to fix the 8mm x/y rods without getting a lot of abrasion resulting in black greasy dust at the endcaps and no play of the rods. The solution was actually presented in 2013 by Ultimaker on the UM2. The pulleys fix the rods with spacers from the inside. In order to make this working the bearings have to be kept in place by the side panel. The panels on the UM2 have an opening just large enough to let the rod pass at assembling. The UMO frame is different. There is just one big hole for the bearing and nothing that would keep the bearing in place - except the end caps. Sometimes the distance between the two end caps of one rod is larger than the rod itself. The result is significant play which ruins print quality. Quite a number of modified end caps deal with the problem by using e.g. screws to fix the rod from the outside. But even with special screws which have a ball at their tip one always gets abrasion. What do you need? 1. A little bit of time 2. Printed spacers 3. 'End caps' with an opening for the rods How do you do it? 1. Measure the distance between the outermost pulleys and the inner wall of adjacent wodden panel. This gives you eight numbers. 2. Add 0.7-0.8mm to each of them. This is the difference in thickness of the bearing and the wodden panels. 3. Scale the length of the spacer to these eight modified lengths and print them. 4. Print eight exemplaries of the open end caps (you may try to use the wodden end caps with hole you mounted on the inside of the wodden pannels, then you just need another two; if you have a direct drive which keeps two of the eight bearings in place from the outside, you don't even need any of the open end caps). 5. Remove the print head and all rods but leave the bearings in their holes. 6. Clean the rods (if your rods rather ressemble bananas, this might be a good time to replace them ) 7. Dismount any endcaps which may be still mounted to the wodden frame. 8. Mount the open end caps on the outside of the wodden panels. Do not mount any open end cap on the inside! 9. Re-assemble the rods: a) Slide a rod in from one side b) Slide the first spacer over the rod on the inside of the bearing (make sure you take one with correct length for this position) c) Slide a pulley over the rod; don't forget the timing belt! It should look now like this: d) Slide the corresponding x/y block over the rod. e) Complete the 'sandwich' with the pulley on the opposite side and the corresponding spacer. f) Push the rod into the bearing on the opposite side. 10. Fix the rods by fixing the pulleys and re-mount the print head. And then, enjoy friction-less and accurate printing...

Yes, it pauses... I'll consider the idea for the TweakAtZ plugin which will probably survive the change to the Cura Pink Unicorn version.

Hi Raffaele Welcome to the UM forum. Your idea is good. Many users thought about it in the past including me. The idea is actually to identify if a certain travel move in combing mode is on top or gets overlapped by the next layer. It would have to be realised in the Cura slicing engine, not in a (post-processing) plugin. AFAIK the CuraEngine works on a layer at a time and does not care about the layer above or below (@daid and @bagel-orb, please correct me if I'm wrong). So it might be something for the far future.

Uhm... I lost you somewhere. So did you actually try the other nozzle?

What happens if you preheat the other nozzle (do you count them as 0 and 1 or as 1 and 2?)?

Klingt mir ähnlich wie hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2?page=55 Falls Temperatursensor und/oder Heizpatrone etwas Spiel im Olsson Block haben, hilft etwas Kupferfett zur Wärmeleitung. Die Fehlermeldung kommt eigentlich nur, wenn die Wärmeübertragung vom/zum Heizblock sehr schlecht ist.

As I understand it both power supplies are connected when the effect occurs. I suggest to disconnect both PSUs and connect the printer via USB cable in order to check if the Arduino is still ok. If it is, next step would be to connect only the 19V PSU but with DISCONNECTED z-motor.

Have you run either the dual extruder upgrade or the hbk alone before?

@SandervG : Not every post on this forum is intended to be liked by you. :PBut I guess you figured that out in the last few days... But I give you an alternative wording you may like: 'UM demonstrates that open source hardware allows for modifications with which the nearly impossible becomes possible'. Better? about the meeting: I'm fine either way...

Another question: Can I somehow search within a certain topic? E.g. when I want to look for 'shot' in this topic... edit: the emojis don't seem to work properly...

If it's just a question of the orientation of the motors (no direct drive), uploading the newest firmware with Cura will solve your 'issue'...

The Cura picture is missing somehow... Do the two walls not touch each other all around the circle or just in two diagonal quadrants?

Automatically.