zoev89

I try to make a barrel like object which is in principle a cylinder with a bottom (like a vase or a cup) and a thicker top. Whatever settings I try in cura I always get 2 passes on the sidewalls. When I try spiralize I still get 2 passes (inner and outer wall). When I try to design the barrel with thinner walls cura will skip area's. It looks like it will always print the inner wall and the outer wall. So how can I trick it to only print the outer wall. Only follow mesh surface does not do the trick since then the barrel will not have a bottom layer and also the top part is not filled in. When I make only a cylinder then I can't design the top part which slowly converges to a thicker part. So how do you design and print a vase?

Ik zie het al ben record houder in weinig gebruik.. Meer dan een 1/3 rol zal het niet zijn. Ik heb ook veel tijd nodig om de dingen inelkaar te zetten. Ik draai geen hub dus dat is wel zichtbaar.

I made the direct drive modification myself. I have been printing quite some hours with it. As far as quality improvement I don't notice that much. There is still backlash since the long belts are still there and possibly that is the biggest contributer. As far as the noise it does not make much difference. Sometimes there is less noice since the backplane of the printer does not vibrate with the motors and sometimes the high frequency pitch breaks through but that depends on the movement and the speed settings. As far as the force that the motors need to apply the situation has improved. When I move the head around by hand I can feel it is a little lighter but there is still some drag due to the fact that one of pulleys is wobbling. Did not upgrade the pulleys yet. My impression is that the motors are running a little cooler since I did this mod. Having the motors on the outside also helps cooling since I also print ABS where I close the printer. I switched the wires around so no modification on the firmware needed. How easy is it to do. Well you have to have some experience with tinkering. If you don't like taking the printer apart don't do this modification. If you feel comfortable taking the axis out and change the connectors then you will be fine.

I have been printing with 0.1 at 50mm/s without issues. Although later I had to lower it to 40mm/s due to a deformed teflon part (have been printing ABS as well which causes your teflon part to deform in the end). So it beats me why you have such large holes in the print.

What speed and layer height are you printing?

Likely you need to switch the direction. This can be done by swapping 2 wires on the motor plugs.

The promises are large. Implement your own slicer is not an easy task and there is no data that I was able to find how it compares against Cura or slice3d. And taking machine and material settings from a database does not sound attractive to me. There is quite a large variation in the same material causing you to print slower warmer or .. Also the model influences your choice in printer settings. If all is hidden... My feeling is, too good to be true, show some evidence (but I don't jump on every development). The concept of having a wireless access point from where you can print is very nice so likely this part will work well.

Even though it is not Ultimaker I do have mixed feelings. What do the users gain by all these expensive lawsuits. It only brings out the negative in this world, I hate that there is enough suffering in this world. I am glad that Ultimaker tries to be open and the people in the company are very passionate.

Just some thoughts: What is the status of your teflon part. Is the bowden tube clean. Can you by hand extrude and how easy is that. Is there a indication on the filament that it is grinding. Or do you need to tune the pressure on the filament at the extruder. Is the extruder wheel clean.

Strange I have not seen such a behavoir with the black um abs that i am using. Last weekend i printed a disk of 20 cm diameter without issues. For such an object the bottom layer had plenty of time to cool. What is the brand of filament you are using? What is the layer height you are using? Try .1 or .2 height. When the filament is hot enough without cooling it will fuse unless it is contaminated with oil or something. Is your flow good enough? I had a partly clogged nozzle and then i also got crums on the object.

Abs does not bridge as well as pla. Add more top layers and increase infill. I use .8 mm top with .1 layer height and 25% infill. At .2 layer height i would try 1mm top layer. Do not drop print temperature to much otherwise you get layer adhesion issues. I print at 250 degrees or even at 260 for faster results. You can try some fan but not above 50% i would recommend.

In the light of dual extrusion. The cyclops hotend of E3D is an interesting design. It will eliminate the second nozzle problems. Of cause both materials must melt at the same temperature. It is still experimental so I guess E3D has not yet figured out how to use it well.

This depends per country please state you location.

Hooking up a 12V fan on a 19V power can only work if you have a very robust 12V fan. Only if you are 100% sure that the 12V fan can handle it then you can do it. You will not be the first one finding out that the new 12V fan is not robust enough resulting in a smoked out fan and a blown darlington transistor on the UM board. If you have the skills to replace the darlington on the board you might want to risk it... I would not do it. I would simply add enough diodes to drop the voltage to 12V. About 11 1N4001 diodes could do the trick for you and they are cheap. Once the 19V is dropped you can parallel the fans. I would make sure that you use 2 of the same fans and not mix fan types. Do not put 2 12V fans in serie on a 19V power. If one of the fans spins up first it can get to much power.

I would not put 12V fans in serie. If one of the fans slows down the other fan gets too much power. If you have 12V fans you would have to reduce the 19V with diodes or a power zener. Using a resistor will not help since the regulation will not work well any more. WIth a resistor you will find that is has difficulty spinning up and then runs full speed. In my case I have a separate 12V dc dc converter that powers the fans with a additional fet to do the speed regulation.

The voltage on the fans at the UMO are 19V. That quite a trouble maker.I changed it to 12V...

Ik heb wel de assen vervangen want het blokje wat je toevoegd kan bij mij x/y uitslag beperken (gewijzigd hotend). Ik had uiteindelijk maar 1 as nodig want de oude Y as kan je in de X richting gebruiken want die steekt ver genoeg uit. De assen van Conrad waren 'zacht' genoeg om met een gewone ijzerzaag te zagen. Wel zijn deze assen niet altijd recht, ik had er een met een afwijking dus door hergebruik van de oude Y as was ik gered.

I have a Evolution (like Skint mentioned) and I can say it is a wonderful airbrush. The other nice thing about it is the amount of additional things that you can buy for that airbrush line. I bought mine at Airbrush Services in Almere in The Netherlands so I can not say anything about the support in the US. I also bought a silent compressor and I can recommend that as well. Of cause you can use bottles but in the long run it is expensive and the pressure is not constant. Having a silent compressor is a joy to work with. Please not those compressors are heavy so if you want mobility than the choice could be different.

This is my contribution of this weekend. A bicycle chain clothes protector. For the small disks (16cm) found on tandems it is difficult to find a protector. Here is the idea: It is mounted using 3 tie raps. Now lets see how long it holds and if it does its work.

Ik print om de zoveel tijd ABS en naast de printer is de geur toch sterk aanwezig. De ruimte zelf valt wel mee. Maar als je de kamer inloopt dan ruik je duidelijk dat er ABS geprint wordt. Dit wordt iets minder als ik mijn afzuiging aanzet maar blijft aanwezig. De een heeft een beter reuk orgaan dan de ander maar ik vind het niet prettig om lange tijd in dezelfde ruimte te zitten waar ABS geprint wordt.

In case you can't get it fixed (don't own a um2 but getting to the max x or y is also difficult) rotate the part 45 degrees and you will have room enough to print it I would guess.

Be careful with reducing the print temperature since with ABS you get layer adhesion issues. My feeling is that 230 is too low for good layer adhesion. So bridging capability improves but your component would be weaker. Depends on where you need it for. At higher temperature add more top layers or increase infill.

I covered the printer this way It is simple and made out of old acrylic plates.They are a bit thin but do the work. It keeps it warm or when I not use the printer for some time the dust out. Nothing air tight and when I print ABS it stinks.

Geen ervaring mee maar ik zie http://kunstofshop.nl/ nu ook filament heeft geen gekke prijs. Ik heb wel eens plaat materiaal bij ze besteld. Staat duidelijk de toleranties vermeld dus dan weet je wat je koopt. Hoe goed het spul is geen idee ik heb alleen nog um filament en colorfab gebruikt.

I have build a bed myself and I have turned the machine off at mid print number of times. The difference is my bed is controlled with a separate switch (like a solid state relay). It is also powered with 24V and I have a DC DC converter to 19V like the UM heated bed kit does (I presume that it does that). In my case none of the 24V can leak into the UM board. Don't know the schematics of the heated bed kit.