ultiarjan

For pla/pva I would advice against that. As the bonding between pla/pva is poor the change of a failing tower is pretty big when you make it smaller. 2 separate small towers seems a beter idea but cura is not supporting that atm When you don't use a tower at all its mostly ok with pla/pla due to the lower temperatures. But with pva you risk small holes in your item due to pva pollution in your model.

so safest thing for now is always keep flow on 100% in cura, and whatever you do in the printer will be correct.

You need to download the "studio" software. Unfortunately they have a very annoying software policy, and changed the rules of the game after many users already bought the product. They moved a lot of functionality into a monthly subscription package. The basic version should still be free, you need to register your scanner to be able to download it. https://fuel-3d.app.box.com/v/studio-software-manual

lol 5 days..... now I'm curious what it is you printed... just did a successful 22 hours Nylon+PVA... myself

agree it should be safe to run all night.... you'll have to specially with the dual on UM3 +20 hrs is normal. I would advice to install some decent smoke detectors though..... and don't leave it on when you're on holiday

And next time (well lets hope there wont be a next time...) don't take apart the hole head but just take out the 4 screws holding the metal fanmount and take off the fanmount only. I usually use a bent paperclip to hang it out of the way on the Y axis.

Yep, you need a bit more patience..... I have no idea about the ETA, but I already have a very early (closed)beta (probably not even a beta...) that already has monitoring and remote shutdown.

probably a hardware issue? loose pulley? does it look like this? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted

http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xx:8080/?action=stream type this in your browser, replace the xxx by the IP of the printer. not sure if you see it on the printer when it's not in DEV mode, otherwise login to your router, it should show a list there.

Yep, and a sort of tight fit in the plastic..... we'll see, just a first attempt... if I find the time we'll know more next weekend. I wonder too, I'll place a temp sensor inside the setup when I do the first tests..

Funny concept, never saw something like this. I recon if you want to apply ink a setup with a little sponge (like those dust filters) filled with ink seems more effective. Some material like Nylon should absorb ink, but my gut feeling says it will not be to good for the print result ...... but it could be fun to try.... will you give it a go ?

Yeah, the UM3 plate should fit the UM2, the position of the bearings is the same. not sure about the screw touching the Z endstop, but thats easy to adapt if needed. Not sure about the retract, can't check now, will do later

slow but steady progress, time to start printing again.... bearings will be pressfit, there's space for (a stack off) magnets to hold the top tube of the core firmly in place. I use 10*5*4 block magnets. I left some space at the right side to use a mini screwdriver to "unlock" the tube from the magnets. The fan-mount design is borrowed from @labern as it's my favorite design.

what do you mean by this ??

You can link directly into the video stream, also from your phone; yourIP:8080/?action=stream There will be a phone app for control, but for now in closed beta. For both options you need to be on your local network, so find out how to setup a VPN, took me only a few minutes, but how easy it is is depending on your router.

Yeah sure, you can just enter a code manually on the layer-height you want or use the tweak at Z plugin in cura.

Ik zou even wachten tot er meer bekent is hoe je aan de UM2 setup van foehnsturm komt, is inmiddels behoorlijk doorontwikkelt. Het moeilijke Z calibreren is opgelost met een hoogte verschil tussen de nozzles, icm z-beweging in de firmware.

And you can check if there's not debris stuck in the inside of the feeder; http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder

Hallo Shiren, Er zijn 2 opties om succesvol met dual extrusion te werken. De meest eenvoudige betrouwbare optie is op het moment de Ultimaker3, maar daar hangt natuurlijk wel een prijskaartje aan. De 2e goede optie is het "magneet wissel systeem" voor de Ultimaker2 van @foehnsturm. Binnenkort beschikbaar voor betatesten, het is nog niet helemaal duidelijk hoe en wanneer dit beschikbaar komt maar verwacht meer info de komende weken. de lange history hier; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer Het heeft geen zin om een 2e nozzle in je Ultimaker 2 kop te bouwen, Z calibratie is een drama, koeling een probleem, zonder lift systeem gaat het niet werken, kortom zonde van je tijd.

it usually helps to bend the filament end a bit more straight when you push it in.

Yes for sure you can, but you need to inconveniently go through the menu's. Things are soooo much easier if you just use the @tinkergnome firmware. Your main settings always show directly in the display, and you can directly adjust from there. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33324-changing-bed-temperature-during-print-2 you can simply install the firmware using old (15.xx) cura

Actually the um3 deals with a hot chamber better than f.e. the e3dv6 imho. If close the front and top when printing abs. Leaving a few holes in the top cover (just a plastic box) to not overheat it. I'm not exactly sure anymore but last time on the um3 the temperature stabilised around 50c. For the e3d this would already cause a block

when doing a save as STL, choose the options button in the bottom of the screen. then set the resolution higher, play with it a bit to find what you need for your model.

To be honest I don't really understand your problem, can you explain a bit more what happens? maybe with a photo? The home position is determined by the physical position of the homing switches on XYZ, so they will not change, you probably mean something else?