ultiarjan

Think he's referring to a + feeder, so no set screw but the nylon gear. Think this gear is known to have issues moving on the motor shaft (I never had any myself) and is already replaced by a version thats a bit longer. @SandervG can you share the partnumber of this new gear? so people now what they need when communicating with the re-seller... and I think I'll get some just in case...

Changing nozzles on an olsson block is much easier than on a V6. The V6 (3mm bowden version) is indeed a bad idea for PLA. The ONLY reason I can think of to use a V6 is when you need to print very high temperatures. I'm convinced for most people the UM2+Olsson block is a much better and user friendly solution.

Maybe this is the issue; During the bed leveling procedure on the um2 you need to use the rotating dial on the front to rotate and move the bed up untill its 1mm from the nozzle.....

I think the E3Dv6 is a pain. Changing nozzles is much less practical compared to an olsson block. The V6 3mm bowden is terrible with PLA. In short I think for most people it's a real downgrade compared to an 2+olsson block. If you still have an old Ultimaker2 feeder you should upgrade the feeder, but you don't need this kit for that. Both the Ultimaker and the Titan can be bought separately. I never used the E3D feeder. If anyone want's the E3DV6 3mm bowden, you can have it, I still have one I don't use.....

how does it affect heat conductivity?

This works for me .... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3

it is 60....

FYI, got confirmation the plate is anodized aluminum

Was thinking about doing that. 30.- is fine as long as I don't need to much iterations....

It's a "GO" clone I made on my Shapeoko3 ... 5 cm extended and 10mm thick wood... great machine to experiment with as it has no covers anywhere

yep, still have them ,thanks. what would your guess be as to what material the plate is?

Update; The bad: print quality is poor The good: I'm pretty sure how to solve it. In the current design the CORE is fixed in 2 ways. The plastic is more or less fixed in the head, and the top shaft is fixed by magnets. This means there's too much play at the nozzle, as the real fixation is only at the top shaft. To solve it the metal part of the core needs to be fixed in the bottom plate of the head, just like it's solved in the ultimaker3. It means it's a bit more complicated as a 7mm thick metal bottom plate is needed (or something like PEEK, but that's much more difficult to get) Stuff I plan to do; - check how hot such a bottom plate will get (try a quick draft in aluminium) and check if it needs cooling, and/or try to measure the temperature of the plate in the Ultimaker3. - option 1, simple CNC'ed aluminium plate (preferred) - option 2, have it printed in metal if cooling ribs are needed.

Try again, send them an e-mail, they should be able to sell you just the feeder, if not now then very soon.

First I would not buy a feeder of aliexpress but just get it at an official ultimaker reseller. Yes you can use the old um2 motor but you need to modify it a bit. You need to cutt of a bit of the driveshaft. It's easy to do with any metal saw. edit: you also need a D shaped drive shaft, some UM2's have been shipped with a round shaft, in that case you need to file it to a D shape (or just get a new motor) You also need to double the e-steps settings in firmware. Also very easy to do when you use @tinkergnome firmware you can just do it directly on the printer menu.

sure, you need more heat; try bed 90-100c extruder (depend on type of ABS) with 0.2 layers I guess minimal, 240c but probably even higher. enclose your printer; minimal the front, but better also the top; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel

I can make it even easier... I'll upload the design files of the head... but it will have to wait till tomorrow. EDIT; if you want to have a go at it and want to use my files for measurement just send me a PM, I'll wait a bit with publishing as its far from finished

successful proof of concept !! the first print is done...

I think it would make much more sense to upgrade the UMO to an UM2 head first if you want to make a magnetic changer setup.

Each head uses its own set of fans.

There's a few things you can do; - lubricate the axis with some sewing-machine oil. - check the alignment of the axis, read how to here; https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles - take out the head, and slide an axis manually thru the bearing, to feel if the bearing is not damaged.

I did NOT fully enclose my machine, so I don't need to worry about the temp of my electronics. But if you build in the total machine it would be the safest I guess if you could separate 2 area's, and have two temperature controllers / fans, to keep the bottom electronics cool. You don't need to worry about the stepper motors, they can handle some heat. Heating the feeders could be an issue depending on the materials you use, if they are to hot they can grind the filament, for PLA it could be bad, but if you have active cooling you can ofc keep a lower temperature.

Super !!! Will it also include FULL profiles, so not affected by future changes in the base profiles?

Has been requested by many. S3d can already do it. Hopefully cura will be able to also do it someday.

I tested it and the ABS did not stick AT ALL to the PVA, bad combination.Nylon however works great so that may be a good alternative if you can't use PLA.