ultiarjan

no idea whats goes wrong with the tower... but I had good result printing both the raft and support in PVA (with Nylon+PVA)

Based on this limited info no idea, but maybe first check if there's something wrong with the machine or the file? Did you try to print something else? just do a quick 1x1x1 cm cube to check...

Sure. Here it is; http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948045

Indeed, your only option is to get a new core, but I would not trow the parts away. In time there may be 3th party alternatives or refurbish kits for which you can still use them. I don't know of any such initiatives now, but it just seems logical that someone will pursue this....

And even for abs I think you don't need an heater. The bed will provide more heat than you need. Heating the bed before print will heatup the chamber already.

If you have the 2, just take the firmware of the 2+ (the 2+ has a geared feeder, so the stepper rotates the other way around) If you take the tinker firmware you can also easy change the e-steps to adjust for any gear ratio, just in the menu on the printer. https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Unless you give it a single extrusion profile? something like that is needed anyhow to provide the full bed size for single extrusion, would be nice to ad one-at-a-time as well then... so at least it's available in single mode

WOW !!!!! first print as part of the beta.... needs a bit more calibration, and a bit less temperate.... but looking damn good for a first print....

I'm having a hard time getting the sensor out of the block, but I heated up the nozzle, turned off the machine and measured the resistance. It didn't change. Still 108 ... what is going on?!? Here's the reading in ohm vs the temperature.... https://www.yumpu.com/cs/document/view/44793898/pt100-resistance-table-micropik if you don't see any change in resistance when temperature is changing it's probably defect ....

oh... and out of curiosity... why are you doing this to that great machine? are you printing some strange and exotic material? as for any normal use that enormous mass you build into the head is like totally crazy IMHO ... and besides the mass the distance between axis and nozzle seems extreme.... I just can't see this setup produce any reasonable results....

you need to calibrate because the mass of that block is soooo much more than the UM2 block. And what heater do you have? With the big block you may get better results with a 35 or 40 watt heater (it helped me when I used a E3Dv6) You run auto PID to find the values for your hotend. Send the Gcode directly by connecting to the machine by USB, use software like Simplify3D or pronterface, and write down the values you get. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning I think its best to run it at your most used temperature. So if you mostly print at 250c you use gcode M303 S250 When you use the @tinkergnome firmware on your UM2 (which you should, its the best) you can directly set the new values on your machine; advanced/preferences/temperature control/extruder Download it here; https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

To be clear I have no problems with ultimaker pva. It prints easy and reliable. That said the first 30cm orso did go bad on me multiple times while the rest of the spool is fine. So I have no idea what else would cause this than humidity. Im in the Netherlands and room temperature is normal. No means to check humidity but I see no reason why it would be abnormal. For me it's no issue at all to check the start of the spool. Waist is very limited.

Thats very much true, even with my setup with PVA in a container, the PVA gets super brittle when left in the bowden, so I need to unload the materail after use. When I start using it I just check the end by bending it (if it breaks its bad) I sometimes have to cut off like the first 30 cm because it's gone brittle...

And if somehow you feel the bowden does not stay in place like it should, just cut of 5 mm from the end, so the 'teeth'in the headconnector have a new place to 'grip' the bowden.

lol

Exactly, I'm thinking if you always print the same model in PVA/PLA and test adhesion (ofc best by measuring the force, but overcomplicated) by pulling it appart you get an idea... I'm just assuming UM materials people tested a lot of PVA and materials combinations, if only when selecting supplier(s). Did they find f.e. differences in adhesion between the UM PLA colors?

LOL If that all3dp review is impartial it's at minimum inclomplete/uninformed. I stick to the standpoint that an olsonblock is soooooo much easier to use for 99% of the users. Like neo said the ONLY bennefit I can think of for the V6 is the higher temp. And the 'spec comparison' is just misinformation.... like neo points out every nozzle will also fit the olsonblock. So for me it comes down to; Easy-less cheap : UM upgrade kit Cheap-less easy : loose Olson block + UM+feeder (or Titan feeder) + other parts you may need, like new axis...

Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK. If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change? And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

I use 1 spool per box. Just place it next to the machine. I don't care about the automatic rfid spool reading.... Picture is 1 spool nylon. 1 spool pva. Material feeds through a short piece of bowden. Feed left box into right feeder.

To add something about PLA/ABS, since you ask about the UM3. The UM3 is perfectly capable of printing ABS. The cores can handle a higher temperature compared to the UM2. So in terms of flexibility in the types of materials to use the UM3 is better. For ABS you want to close the front (and top) of the printer, but thats very simple to do (same as on UM2) Only exception in flexibility is if you want to print a lot of abrasive materials (like metal filled filament). In this case the UM2 is a better option as changing nozzles is much cheaper than changing a complete core. Although my gut feeling is this is only a temporary advantage as I expect 3th party cores with changeable nozzles will eventually become available for the UM3.

I think the best way to improve adhesion between PLA and PVA is to try different brands and colors to find which combinations stick the best. We should probably all document and report on the combinations we tried.... And maybe we should make some sort of standardized test for this.... @sandervG do you know if UM materials people have a test method / print for this?

Picture may explain.

These UM2 solutions also fit the UM3; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips It's just that if you want to use the full buildplate of the UM3 the head sticks a bit out of the front, so you would need a front door that's offset from the front panel +/- 1 cm . But I did not bother as I never need the full build plate ....

The default build plate temperature is pretty low in Cura (80c), which is probably based on Ultimaker ABS, but most likely a higher temp will help with most other ABS'es. I usually go for 95-100c. The printing temperature default can also be a bit low if you use non-ultimaker ABS. If you use the same adhesion material as on the UM2 that should not be the issue. The only other thing I can think of is the bed leveling. Is you first layer ok? I printed ABS on the UM3 with no issues, I do enclose the front and top of the machine.

- they have a version thats supposed to be better with PLA, the V6 lite, but I think it's only in 1.75, and has a limmited temperature range, so no upgrade v.s Olsson block - I did not suggest to go for the Titan..... I hear good things about it but never used it myself. No need as I think the + feeders from Ultimaker I use on multiple machines do a fine job.