ultiarjan

I used to print ABS on an enclosed UM2 with a E3Dv6 hotend. This hotend would block if the temperature in the enclosure got to high. I did not do many enclosed prints on the UM3 jet but it looks like the CORE of the UM3 can handle a much higher enclosed temperature, I'm not 100% sure but I think on the UM3 I had the enclosed temp stabilizing around 50c. I drilled a few holes in the plastic topcover to let out some of the hot air. I measure using this 5 euro meat thermometer, just hang it over the edge of the printer.

Apparently 110 is at the max of what the bed is capable of.... for what material do you need 110? even for ABS in never go over 100. So if you really need it, stick to something like 107c but maybe reconsider and go even lower, saves also a lot of heatup time. Also I assume you close the front of the machine, assuming you use ABS? this also saves a lot of issues and heating time.

There is a search (top right) but it doesn't work all that well so your better of just using google.....

yeah, I was surprised how easy it is, depends on the type of router you have ofc. but with a "fritzbox" router it's a matter of a few minutes.

Yes, I'm using this super simple setup. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel The only thing is that if you really want to use the full bed of the UM3, the head will stick out of the front about a cm, but I don't think I ever needed that...

not really, on github there's also per part a pdf with a drawing of it, and the 3d model to easily find the partnumber. I agree it would be nice if the "photobook" would also be published on Github.

It's on github..... the BOM. Resellers also have a spare part list in PDF with photo's of all parts, that's indeed a bit easier. The main issue is there is no part number (afaik) for just the pre-assembled feeder.

I did buy the feeder in parts. But you should be able to get a pre assembled feeder at um resellers according to @SandervG. But some people here reported they could not get it from there reseller. Ultimaker is pretty unclear about this.

Oh, and what print speeds and temperatures do you use?

If you use PLA don't turn the bed up to 80c, it's really not needed to go higher than 60c. About the warping, normal bed leveling (with a calibration piece of paper) should be fine. The most important thing is to have a CLEAN plate of glass, clean it using soap or a bit of alcohol. When you apply glue make sure it's just a very thin layer, use a bit a glue stick and then use a wet paper towel to spread it on the bed a bit more. About the small cracks in the print, please check you feeder tension, is the indicator in the middle? for average tension. And check if your spool of plastic can rotate freely.

Hi, This summer I bought one form Carl / 3Dsolex, just because I was curious about it. I run it on one of my UM2's for a few months now. And though I'm probably not the most interesting person to give feedback as I didn't really torture test the device I have two remarks concerning the bondtech. I find the Quick Release to be useless with the short spring you deliver with it. I always have to almost totally unscrew the screw to be able to use the quick release. People tell me I can replace the spring with a longer one... it's still on my to-do list but I think you should really deliver a longer one with the feeder. 2th and more important issue is the driveweels get polluted with plastic over time, and it's a pain to clean them. It's expected this type of drivewheel to pollute more than the knurled wheel of Ultimaker, and the front one is pretty easy to clean, but the one in the back is a pain in the @$$ to reach ( any tips here? So overall do I like it? yes it's a nice piece. Do people need it? well I guess most UM2+ users don't, I think the new + feeder works fine for 99.9% of the users. For people with the old UM2 feeder it's a very nice option, specially since Ultimaker is making it much to difficult for people to just buy the + feeder (some re-sellers sell it, some don't...)

The brim is actually printed out of PLA every time (aka core 1 material). That's the default setting on my cura. you are allowed to change settings Seriously I agree when choosing a pla pva profile the default brim and support should be on pva

I assume you use pva for brim? I do.

I gave it a little more thought, and I think I would like the material/core change part of the firmware to look like this; Unload material; (just unload, scenario; you want to take out nylon, or PVa to store it, but don't want to do another print now) load material; just load material, the correct core is already loaded. change material; only change material, you want to keep working with the already loaded core. change core; this is a bit more complicated. I see 2 options, the 2th is probably the best; simple; Always fully unload/change the material, assuming in 99% of the time you want to change material when you change a core (not true if you change from 0.4 to 0.6 f.e) -plus; no risk of reentering material with a string on it, you can cut it to a nice tip again. After change core, ask question, do you want to load material Y/N. less simple; Start with a question, "do you want to fully unload material Y/N" and based on that do a "short retract" or fully unload of material. After change core, ask question, do you want to load material Y/N. Anyhow the "change core" part of the menu needs the option to at the same time change material.

yep, thats indeed the latest stable version

I know the UM3 software is still 'in the making' so let's collect some user experience to improve the firmware. Here's a few of my findings on changing cores and materials; scenario1; Changing a CORE; - change core2 - heatup, unload material (just a bit) - take out BB core - Put in AA core * WARNING: "core not compatible" - click continue - "place a printcore" (he hello... printer, there's already one in) Now there's no way to get out of this menu, you can try to remove and place again, wont help.. only option is REBOOT. Suggestion: let me simply overrule the warning, and preferably directly manual select a different material. scenario2; When I first unload a material, and then directly after that 'change printcore' the printer will warm the core again to remove the material that's not there .... waist of time, but ok I'll wait... I place a new core, the printers tells me to remove it (????) I do that, and directly get a 'max temperature error' Can not get out of this, need to reboot... and about updating firmware; If you go to update firmware, the printer will update even if the installed firmware is still the latest. I would like to see if there's a new version available and only then decide to update Y/N

Are you sure you installed the "stable version"? and not the test version ? Asking as according to my knowledge there has not been an update of the stable version in the last weeks....

What is the "Tinker-Firmware"?It's an alternative firmware for machines of the Ultimaker 2 series. Think it's already clearly stated it's for the Ultimaker 2 series.

@SandervG did anybody already report the arrow at the right bottom of the page (to move to the top) does not work anymore? Not in Chome on windows7, also not in chome on android.

LOL that may not be very good for the part's strength.... guess I would prefect to model a few holes in CAD...

Indeed, and on top in the case of PVA support the unwanted residue will leave holes in your print after dissolving. I would advice against turning it of for PVA support prints. For PLA/PLA multicolor prints you can try turning it of. Specially if you also print with lower temperatures (less oozing) you can get good results without a tower.

Did you get the part from Ultimaker? It's not Chinese eBay stuff? If so return it.... I'm sure ultimaker/reseller will correct it for you.

I'm afraid you're not the only one with frustrations on spare parts. And although the processing speed when Ultimaker sold parts directly was not always the best, for some parts it can still take a long time, probably even longer. It's my impression the Ultimaker supply chain is pretty time consuming, re-sellers getting stuff from country distributors,getting stuff from Ultimaker.... fortunately some re-sellers keep stock of most of the smaller spare parts, Makerpoint in the Netherlands has a pretty decent stock, but also they don't have everything. I do think for stocked parts, at least in the Netherlands, the delivery time is pretty ok now.

sorry, no, think you best contact there support.

If you have small support structures or support starting on pla it might help to play with increasing "horizontal expansion" on the support. But it does make print times even longer ...