pm_dude

Hahah yes that would be correct. I followed every new topic that would pop in most sections of the forum and all the topic I replied to. That's what you get for enabling the auto follow on reply.

Ho no this also apply to every existing topic I was already following too...

Ho no!!!! All the forums I was following with notifications have reset with the change of forum. Is there any way they can be restored or do I need to go in every single sections of this forum to click the "Get Notified"? Cheers PM

utilisez 3DHubs.com

The bed is too hot for pla. You can drop it to 50-60. It will reduce caving in near the print bed. At that speed you can print colder. 200C or even 190C with some PLA.

All of the above. Really you dont need support here. Just cold, slow with good cooling.

You can do the same on the UM2. I usually give a little push on the filament toward the feeder (it works as long as the extrusion as not started). I personally feel the end of print retraction is too long and sometimes it causes the filament to stay stuck between the insulator and the heater block.

Great results. Does it have any impact on the print head size?

You can try with Cura 14.09 or 14.07 version to see

Thats TGlase. is it warping as much?

What version of Cura are you using? If you are using Cura... Since version 14.12 I noticed it changed some behavior in the way it starts the new layer. This causes the Z step to occur during a long traveling from end of layer A toward beginning of layer B. In previous versions the layer B would start very close to where the layer A ended. This could be the cause of the leg getting knocked out.

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#ringing

z hop is triggered at every retraction so it should trigger it if it's properly setup. If you cap the nozzle you will risk cooking the filament. Woodfill, flexible filaments and other metal pla will likely clog the nozzle.

how do you manage the oozing issue?

For me oil is not needed. Slow speed is adviced but it doesn't prevent you from printing thicker layers (anything up to 0.15mm layers work the same). I need to print at 30mm/s or slower in cases where a lot of thin walls are involved. I keep retractions enabled but they dont really work well (lots of strings). I usually try to unroll the needed filament in advance when possible. The secret for me was to have enough tension in the feeder (roberts feeder with the filament guide) and now it doesn't slip even if I pull on it.

I feel your pain . Nice output!! NinjaFlex is not really fun to print. I had a lot of prints to do with that latelly and more and more with the 0.25mm nozzle. Having prints with 0.3mm walls is kind of crazy. I'll have to test SemFlex soon.

A small note on the fan mount and aluminum cover. The cover vibrate and is pretty noisy. Its also becoming pretty hot and bend the fan mount next to it. I'll try to find Kapton film and try with that. The temp is extremely stable tough.

Hi Zews, Yes if you look at the pieces they contain the version number. The V4 was a previous iteration of that same design with some minor changes to it and in my comments I'm just stating that the V4 worked well for a while but that the V6 is better now. V4 pieces have been removed from the youmagine page by now.

First tests of the new fanduck with protection on the heater against the airflow. Still a work in progress: - 40mm Fans - Right duck is not at the good distance for now - Air duck is centered on the nozzle - Air flow shield is made with aluminum sheet (completely overrated ) A small example of the difference of with and without the shield. Without: the nozzle starts at 210C and after a few layers the nozzle could never exceed 200C because of the amount of air flow. With: the nozzle drop at 208C and goes back at 210C in a few seconds. Edit: shield will pretty much stay this way

Just use pause at Z plugin and abort your print. Edit: ha yes if you need to print more than one piece it wont work. Could be an interesting plugin to do.

You wont be able to print in on UM2 unless you change your firmware to remove the 260C heater limit

Thanks a lot. Makes sense. I'm now wondering if I should take a steel nozzle or 3 brass nozzle instead for the same price haha.

I'll be getting some abrasive filament soon and was wondering if steel nozzles would be more appropriate. I plan on printing: Stainless Steel PLA, Magnetic Iron PLA and Carbon Fiber PLA from Proto pasta and XT-CF20 from colorfabb. Do you think it steel nozzle will even work with PLA? How abrasive could it get on the block itself?

Oui si tu change la taille de la buse Cura va changer la vitesse E (feeder) pour avoir le bon volume de filament. Tu dois par contre refaire le gcode. Tu ne peux par réutiliser le même gcode avec une tête différente.

Pfff la physique...