Labern

The 1mm away step is not critical. It's just a visual check on all 3 corners to make sure on the next step the nozzle won't hit the glass of the leveling is way off. I think there is a video somewhere. Maybe in the phone App or on website somewhere? But you can quickly adjust it as it's printing the skirt by watching the printed line and adjusting the screws instill you can see it's printing right. @Gr5 has a guide on how to do this.

You can't change the stepper driver on UM2. Only the old UM0.

Option of a bigger build volume. New silent step control board with more smarts. Closed-loop stepper-motor control with step-loss compensation. Light weight direct drive. 5 extruders, system like the mark 2 with ability to have other attachments other then filament extruders. Enclosed with temp control. Smart filament sensor that can compensate drive slippage, detect run out etc. Failed print camera detection also to detect if head is out of position if a pulley has slipped. Failed print recovery. Auto part removal for production runs. Stiffer bed on ball screws. Light weight stiff gantry. Touch screen with a ton of options for adjusting on the fly or customising printer setup manually. (Options were less on um3 compared to um2 where it should have been more like tinkerware.) Nozzle tip cleaner on material change With ability to set tip clean intervals for single extruder prints. Hot swap spool changer for filament run out. Phone notifications on printer status. Probably missed a few things because I just woke up. And make all this cheap enough so i can afford a print wall .

But could you afford it

If you haven't seen it then I would suggest having a look at THIS guide to help trouble shoot your issues. If you have an Olsson Ruby nozzle then XT-CF20 is easy to print with. ABS is not really suited to 3D printing but by all means use what you've got.

That's normally when the bed temp is to high. What are you using on the glass to help the AND stick? Also is there a specific reason you are using ABS? It's not the easiest beginner material to use. It's also not as strong as PLA or other materials plus layer adhesion is not that great. So unless you really need ABS I would suggest starting off with PLA first.

What version of CURA are you using? There have been many changes in loading times over different versions.

I heard a rumor it's really good at toasting bread and you can schedule it to be ready for breakfast in the morning. The cores can spread whatever topping you want.

For UM2 I use tinkergnomes firmware which has a preheat feature which I start as soon as I turn the printer on. For UM3 I select preheat as soon as I load Cura. I know this isn't the biggest help but it does reduce the time a bit. Having the front door does help with stopping cold air slowing it down so it's only really the available accessory from UM or you could find a full enclosure kit. Some people put towels on the heat bed which helps but only when preheating or it may crash.

It would be a cool addition to the UM3 app to be able to read the tags. I have unmarked spools so can't confirm what the material unless I load it into the printer. But I would also like to write my own rags somehow.

You can read all about it here

The print thin walls seems to do them as a separate feature compared to a standard wall. Which means if a wall progressively gets smaller it will print all walls down to the nozzle size then print the thin walls as a separate pass. This creates a lot of imperfections in the print. To get the best quality results it needs to progressively print all walls thin or not in one pass so it's not broken up into different moves. Will this be something that's possible to achieve later on or is it limited by how the programming works?

In CURA 2.7 It seems you can set support infill layer thickness to double the layer thickness which will help a bit.

I have a 3D solex core for smaller nozzles but haven't found it to be the best. I wouldn't slow down the travel. Keep it nice and fast but you might want to slow the print speed and lower the temp. I know you can have infill set to double the wall layer height using 2 extruders but not sure if it works on support. I don't have access to check at the moment.

You can print at 0.02 but in my experiments you get better results at 0.04mm

when you say deep do you mean low? like 0.02mm? PLA is by far the easiest to get small details as you can get it really cold but still retain the layer adhesion. also doesn't ooze very much.

What settings did you try? and are you using the UM 0.4mm core?

Yes, it is safe. People print with the bed temp over 100deg all the time for materials like PC. I have printed a lot with UM Nylon and the default bed temp. What issues are you having with your print? Pictures?

You can. Under settings there a tick box to enable this along with other viewing options

You want to make the time smaller not larger as it will end up like your photo. Try 5 seconds. You may find it's one of the linear bearings for your z axis that binds at certain heights. If you unscrew them then slide them up and down the shaft you may feel tight spots.

That's great. Just make sure you keep the filament in a sealed container with some desicant to keep it dry.

As the model is getting smaller the higher it gets it might be effected by the minimum layer time then over heating. What is this time currently set at?

Nylon comes in transparent and black. It is effected by moisture and does swell a bit. This could also be polycarbonate which has a bit of flex. Tolerant to impacts and not effected by moisture the same but also comes in transparent and black.

So is this what the print in your first post is meant to look like? Did you put the tension of the feeder back after drying it? And did you also revert all the CURA changes back to default after drying?

It looks like your wall thickness is so wide that there is no infill. Reduce your wall thickness to 3 lines