Labern

Too many things to read, not enough time

You can buy different spray cans to get this finish. Search: Hammertone Paint Aged Iron Spray Paint Stone Spray Paint Or you could do what cloakfiend does and metal plate the plastic

Its actually best to do a google site search. But the one on the website you just click on the magnifying glass in the top right corner.

I think it does depend on how old your printer is as I'm sure it's only on newer printers.

Changing the color only works on UM3 as other UM's only have single color LEDs. .

My web shop But 3D solex or any of his reseller's have them.

I would also like to have the ability to save a post. You can bookmark a topic and follow a topic but sometimes it's just one post you want to save. Having a folder that you can name full of saved posts would be nice. But this doesn't stop good topics slipping by unnoticed.

I didn't realise it also had a ambient temperature sensor. Where does it measure this temperature? Inside the print chamber or where the electronics boards are?

And for um2go?

Nice.

The materials in demo are the 350gram rolls that you can see in the materials section.

I would like an extended but with dual prints a tall object may take a very long time to print.

The hot end mass is heaps smaller the UM2 so not as much power is required to heat it. This also helps with oozing etc.

Yes I missed you @daid Thanks for posting this and can't wait for the next topic. +1 for manipulating Led colors

Yes you are correct and that's why Ultimaker have multiple printers on offer for different price points and requirements.

You may not NEED all of those but the combination of all the features should make it a lot more reliable and easier to use.

Yes they'll care. Especially when you look at how many cores you need on hand to print different materials, and at different nozzle diameters (If UM release them) I run 2 printers 24/7 at my company and swapping them looks convenient, but a complete stock of nozzle cores x diameters would cost more than the printer for all the materials we stock. As mentioned before, you don't need multiple nozzles for different materials, it can handle them all without atomics in-between. The heat zone is also smaller the Olsson so there will be less left over plastic on a material change. And if you want a clean start then just do atomic when changing. Also stainless nozzles suck. Hardened steel is better and it looks like Ruby is far superior again.

You can easily convert the 3d model into a 2D format that you can import into inkscape

You don't need to go into all that effort of having Python script. Just use inkscape with the laser plugin. It generates your gcode for you. With laser on/off etc.. extruder doesn't move and you tell it what command turns laser on/off. This depends on what you control it from, led or fan PWM. You cant power the laser off PWM. This just gives a signal to control the output power of the laser. The laser needs external power supply that has a relay switch it from the PWM signal and you read the PWM signal to adjust the laser current. I would suggest you buy the jtechphotonics board as it does all this for you.

In the picture it looks like it has my fan shroud

Oh right. Time to get started. I'm sure that this time I'm going to be right; It's clearly a lawn mower! Hmmm so the blade must be hidden underneath??

I'm surprised no one is speculating about the fuzzy images shown on the website yet....

Wohoo, Finally A new Ultimaker

I am with Gr5 on this one. I find it very good. No layer bonding issues. Flexible and strong.