Labern

No I am not meaning on the top of every screen like the temp. Meaning more along side the print progress. But at the time I did not see you had this in the side menu, now I watched again I have seen it. I really love your firmware, it has a really great look and menu is really simple

It would be good to add a few more useful items on the main screen like current Z height.

The previous advices are good. If you are just making stuff for your self and not for long term use then I wouldn't worry to much as long as it's cleaned well. I have worked in the food packaging and processing industry for 14years and I you knew how everything is handled and made then you wouldnt worry much about it. Ultimaker has to be careful on advice around using prints for food just Incase you do end up getting sick. And If you are one of those health fanatics then you shouldn't be printing anyway

It's the first time I have seen a video of the booth and I know all the faces. I like the all cardboard look.

The warning needs to be etched into the glass

So that maybe why I have had trouble with adhesion lately. The sticker came off mine. Thanks for the info, it would be good to have this explained on some of the guides. The sticker is mentioned but it's not mentioned why.

Also make sure you have no air bubbles.

I have also been thinking about this for my um2. It would be good to have wifi access to it also and a pi camera for remote monitoring.

You stick it to the glass, so sticky side down

There is adhesive silicone that you could use. The good ones have a primer that you use to prep both halves before glueing. They can be really strong.

I would think that it's a deformed PTFE coupler. You will find info on how to check it and change it in the support section of the website or on the Ultimaker app.

Check x ray mode to see if there are errors with the model shown in red. What is the diameter of the hand rail? And what sized nozzle are you using? A 0.4 diameter cylinder won't be sliced if you use a 0.4 mm nozzle, the cylinder needs to be slightly larger, like 0.45. So set your nozzle size to a smaller size and see if it works.

I think buying a spare glass panel would also be good with this kit, ( I just happen to have one ) This way you can have one set up with the adhesive sheet on it and the other without. Then you can just swap out the glass if you want to print TPU etc so you don't waste a sheet.

The sides are what holds your printer together. Do not remove them. You could cut out holes to be more like a UMO if you really wanted.

Nice. This would be really great.

On the github for UM2go

I kinda modified the UM2go carry case STL to fit a UM2 but I never finished it. I also have a CNC but my time is being spent on other projects.

Hey. Yeah it was a typo. Ok thanks. The STL seems to measure 16.93 where you have indicated.

I just took a few measurements off the spacer and it seems to be 16.93mm not 19.8mm. Is this to cater for shrinkage when injection molded?

Thanks for this, is great timing to make sure my UM2go+ is set up perfectly. I may make a fancy one in my CNC mill

spoken like a true programmer, incomprehensible to layman's like me

Weld-on acrylic glue is awesome. Melts the surface of pla and bonds within seconds so no prep work required. Helps if you rub the parts together while glue is still wet to help dissolve the layer a bit for stronger bond. I have used other acrylic glues and they work just as well.

Is there still much development being done on the forum? implementing some of the ideas that were brought up quite early on? I'm not having a gripe, just a general question.

I'm loving the direction Cura is heading in. Just a few things I would like. If you have settings hidden in the feature tree then the ones shown should trump what's hidden. Eg. Speed, if you have only print and travel speed shown then infill, shells etc should be same as you set print speed. I like to adjust top bottom layers but number of layers not by distance but I like to have the distance shown just so I can see how thick it will be. But if I change the amount of layers, the distance won't change, then I don't know which one it will actually use.

I love nGen and never had any stringing issues. I use normal settings but temp about 10deg hotter then pla and no fans. Love the print finish, looks so much nicer then pla and prints really well with small nozzles.