Labern

I have used it a lot and find it really good. No headaches

What bottom layer speed do you have? Print speed? Nozzle temp? Bed temp? What height do the fans reach 100%

You mean like this one?

You can order one from 3dsolex Or one of the re-sellers found on This page. It is called the TFT coupler and is very good.

Hello everybody, this is Lazack. I'm new in the forum and I'm the proud possessor of a UM2 Ext. I bought it from a guy who forgot to send me the Magnalube grease. The problem is that here in Italy they don't sell Magnalube. I was thinking to buy this product: http://www.amazon.it/Exustar-880086-Grasso-per-cuscinetti/dp/B000RW5IOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458054576&sr=8-1&keywords=Exustar+grasso Do you think it may duly replace the original grease? Thanks in advance for your help Regards Lazack Yes you can use any good quality grease as long as its not 2 thick.

Sweet. Let me know how the upgrade goes. I'm looking at getting one myself.

Don't remove the side panel. loosen the pulleys as you explained. Just make sure they are nice and tight when you put it all back.

I hated the UM ones in the beginning but now I dont mind them.

There are 2 settings that can cause this. One is in the advanced menu and called top / bottom speed. If this is set to 0 then it will print at the normal print speed. If a number is entered it will print at that speed. The other setting which can cause it and the problem it think you have with the ears is called minimum layer time. If one layer will take less then this time it will slow the print speed down till it takes the amount of time set in this layer time setting. This is to try and prevent the printer from putting down another layer when the previous layer is still hot. This setting can be good and bad as the hot nozzle travels slowly and it can over extrude. So you can adjust this but you may experance over heating. The best way to fix this it to either print 2 items at once (if they are small) or print a small tower next to the print.

It includes the kit

The Original grease is called Magnalube-G, Its a really good teflon grease. You can buy small amounts of it if you want to go with the original grease, Just google search it and find some close to you.

There is protection for the heaters. If there is a problem with the temp sensor the it will stop the machine, alarm and cut the power to the heater. The machines a pretty safe and I leave mine going all night all the time. The main problem is if you enclose the printer unsafely, but if its in it natural state then i don't think you have anything to worry about if you are still concerned there is a unit that you install above the printer that has a smoke alarm that cuts power to the printer if it detects smoke. Its not for sale any more but you maybe able to rig something up.

You need to change it while it's hot. I normally go to the move material screen. This heats the nozzle and you can retract it a little if you prefer. Change the nozzle when up to temp then insert new one. Then you can prime it to make sure it's working good before you try to print.

No sorry. I scrapped the results as the model I tried was to small to see its shape properly. Also the base wasn't good as I was adjusting settings to find the correct temp. I was mainly just seeing what it does as like what you said, you can see it in layer view.

Yes i tried it. Took a while to get the temp right but it ended up working ok on .4 nozzle. You just need to make sure the outside of the nozzle is clean otherwise the strands can stick to it and drag along as the nozzle moves. I then tried it on .8 nozzle but couldn't get it to work. I want to try a large print to see how it goes but i think it will take a bit to find good settings.

I have some that are slightly cheaper found Here Same as the 255c 3Dsolex ones

If you get another feeder motor you can have one size on each side of the print head. You just remove the nozzle on the side you are not using. You can see it here

Well I guess this is when the 3MF files will make things a whole lot easier in the new cura.

In cura you can do this with the swap at z plugin and you can do it in S3D. If you a printing a hole which is standing up ( or passing horizontally through the part then you don't want to thin of layers or the over hanging parts will not end up as smooth as when you use thicker layers.

Or a gear knob for in the car and have the sides fuzzy and the very top smooth with the gear number pattern.

Cool. Its a bit nerv racking on you first long print. Will it make the distance??? My longest is 24hours. Turned out ok but my settings could have been a little better.

Yeah I always though lady's hand bags should have det cord in the straps. So if some one snatches it you just blow there hand off.

What is the initial layer height set in cura. is this the same as what you use in slicer?

There has been grinding by the feeder. It looks like the print had heaps of retractions, This could have caused it. It can also be caused by a nozzle block, the feeder motor getting to hot or a tangle in the filament roll. If you insert it back into the printer then you may need to push it till its passed the part with the grinding. there maybe a slight defect in your print when the damaged part reaches you nozzle but you probably wont notice it.