Labern

I had the exact same issue on a print yesterday. It was hissing and piping on the first layer before it stopped extruding. I started again dropped the temp to 200 deg for first layer and as it picked up speed on second layer I increased the temp to 210. 3rd layer was close to full speed so went up to 225 deg. I think it was due to a bad roll. Left overnight it had snapped at the feeder.

This is under extrusion. What Printer do you have? Cant give advice if I dont know what you are using as there are many causes of this.

They aren't shifted layers that was an example of how the layers fall off during the print I just threw it back on top, sorry for the confusion and thanks for the tip. OK Cool. Well It could be a problem with the Z axis as it could be dropping a bit causing an under-extruded layer. Some people have had there stepper motors over heat causing similar issues. Or could need a good clean and grease. Is the problem only on this model? Have you looked at the model in X-ray mode to see if there are any issues shown in red? Do you hear the feeder skip back during the layer that doesn't stick? 230deg seems quite low for ABS, I don't print with ABS but its normally printed around 250 - 260 from what I have seen. The PTFE coupler needs to be very straight or it will not sit flat against the nozzle. this can cause a few issues. I would suggest that you head over to 3D Solex and replace it with a High Temp coupler that is more suited for ABS.

Looking at the one on the left it looks like you have shifted layers. You can read how to fix it HERE

Something that small you should be able to print with both nozzles at the same time

looking neat now..

Common People, Deadlines getting close. Cant wait to see some more cool entries. @SandervG you need to make things like this sticky on the community page or like a little advert on the side on topics like you have with the UM2 comes with free Olsson block one.

Dunno, Never sent anything to Greece But i have no issue with it if you want me to look into it for you.

Yes you are correct with the spacers, I have grey ones that you can see in this picture I would recomment putting Kapton tape on the fan shroud shown in yellow as per this photo this photo credit of Bob-hepple

Those blobs are from oozing as its traveling and is a form of stringing you can go through this article HERE Lower layer heights extrude the plastic a lot slower then higher layers. So the plastic has more time to heat up and therefore expands more. Some filament is worse then others. This means that you can print a lot cooler. You may have a bad roll as Ultimaker has had a bad batch go through or you may just need to test you printers limits. Some printers have a temp sensor that out a little. Printing two towers like in the article is a good way to learn what works best and uses only a small amount of material to test.

I was thinking it might be a good addition to also add a clip to fix the wire to the back of the main bed plate to avoid tension on the tape it's covered with, not sure if its needed but I would keep an eye on it... Yeah. I was going to have the wires come out the back and have a clip but the wires come out in the center where the spring is for the rear adjuster. I will come up with something though

You could got to 3d hubs and find a hub in your area that can print in XT or Nylon and get them to print it for you. The cost will be displayed as you go through the hub selection process.

Print temp? Speed? Travel Speed? Retraction length? Layer height? Listing quite a few specs kinda helps. Or screen shots or cura settings.

Spring replacement spacer. To stop the spring tension pushing on the PTFE coupler and deformity it. It's also good to stop the nozzle pulling up during atomic pulls and any movement during retractions. I normally have my fan shroud on there but it's being used elsewhere

So I just received my Heat bed kit yesterday and have Installed it and so far its awesome. So much nice printing straight onto clean glass. Got sick of sticking tape on all the time. Didn't take long to install and was really easy to do. Just stick it on and plug in the wires. I Put on some Braid as it doesn't come with any just to keep it tidy and looking like a factory UM2

Can't remember the term but there is a option to render the thread or cut the thread before you apply it.

Fusion 360 is the easiest I have used.

Onshape is pretty much the same as Solidworks but without the overkill features. plus you can use it for free.

Also the slow text input is the worst. drives me nuts

Not really a latest print but more of a work in progress I have the use of an Extended while I'm waiting on some parts to arrive and couldn't resist adding a big Ultibot to go along with my tiny Ultibot.

Haha, just read my message, stupid phone auto correct. Keeps stuffing up the text on this forum. But I guess you figured I was meaning desoldered and soldered.

I desolate red the wires from both fans and resold red the one with the plug on the new fan. Just peel the sticker back a bit but It's easy to do and the neatest option.

Sweet Thanks I'm not used to printing big stuff and didn't want to waist heaps of filament trying this out. the overhangs start quite high so it would take ages to find out And if your team have got good settings, why not use them Thanks

What is the width of the combs? If you nozzle is 0.4mm and the width of the comb is 1mm then you may have a problem. You can see that the combs are not joined together and not joined to the base. I wouldn't have thought it would effect the joining to the base but there might be some issue there. If you don't have the Olsson block to select the correct nozzle which is a multiple of the comb width then you can Either change the model so it is, or manipulate the nozzle size a bit in cura. A 0.4mm nozzle can be set to 0.3 or 0.5 in cura and still work just fine, but better yet. Get an Olsson block.

Some people do have bent ones as they can bend easily, Mine looked like yours once after a print got knocked off and bent it. But as Robert says, Just bend it back. As for air flow. There are quite a few printable ones that work a lot better then the standard one. You just have to find one the you think will work the best If you want to stick with the metal one though the simple extension bracket is a good way to go.