Labern

Its the nature of the design. The end of the thread gets damaged as its tightened into the element and temp sensor.. If heating doesnt work and you wont use it again then use some vice grips on the screw and a spanner on the block and wind it out. I might squeal a bit but it will come.

I agree that CF-20 is a gimmick, not all that easy to print with either on a smaller nozzle. My selling point was the matte black / charcoal look. I don't paint stuff and shiny black didn't suit the parts I wanted. Interesting results though There was a company making continuous fibre filament but think it was only for their machine and it's still just going to be as strong as your layer adhesion.

Have you checked to see if the 3rd fan is working? (One at the back of print head) On new machines it should come on above 40 degree, old machines come on straight away. If this isn't working it can cause similar issues.

In the picture it looks a little warped. Maybe just the angle of the picture though. Is it flat?

There is a design that is more enclosed. You can also adjust the fan on full at height so they come on a bit slower. Also don' t have the shroud to low

Just checked, You pause the print then select change material.

Yes this can be done. Its in the tune menu. I think while paused you can select change material. Not all printer firmware's have the option and i'm not at my printer to check. If you have Roberts feeder then its very fast and simple. You can even use the plugin and set Pause at height so you can change it while paused and do multi color prints.

what version of cura are you using? Some versions allow you to select in what order the infill and outer layers are printed in. In the new BETA version you can also select different line widths for infill and outer walls.

Cool, Looks good. Would be good to see how it goes. I have printed mine in XT-CF20 and have a layer of thick Kapton tape on it and have found that it works well without deforming. But its good you have something better that should withstand the heat. Good that there are still people in the chat room. Im still waiting for @SandervG to put one on the new forum

You will also need a blade that's only sharpened on one side.

Already am:( thanks for the suggestion! Still have my belt problem though, the belt on the back (the long one) is really lose, and the one on the right hand side (long one) is slightly lose as well. How can i tighten these? Thanks! To tighten it you undo all the pulleys on that side to allow the spring tensioner to pull it tight again.

I have re-drilled by hand some of mine in the passed and got a few more months out of them. If you drill from the top down the bit will be guided nice and straight.

Yep. It's pretty cool for newbies

this is demonstrated along with pictures in the Ultimaker app under maintenance / lubricating the axes App can be found HERE

Changing the speed makes a big difference of the sound. But you will still get a sound. If you make sure your bowden doesn't move on retractions you maybe able to reduce the distance a little bit.

Oh i thought they were just a reflection. I guess its just uneven glass. Have you tried flipping the glass over and printing on the other side?

it's soooo close... Yay

Looks cool. Next time you photo shop it, remove the defects from you model

C:\Users\Owner\AppData\Local\cura

Do you have a file that we can try?

Looks like it's a bit over extruded. Have you tried lowering the glass a bit?

It goes over the actual nozzle and goes between the nozzle and fan shroud to stop melted plastic getting up underneath.

I'm just waiting for your Project nallath I want something different to play with.

Acrylic adhesive works really well. the solvent in it melts PLA so you get a really strong bond when set. you just wipe on a small amount

it maybe due to the point of the tail, you can change the settings for the support if you click on the 3 dots next to the support selection. you can change the x-y distance and maybe the fill amount until you get the required result.