Labern

Its the minimum layer time. the minimum layer time slows the print speed if it would normally take less time to print that layer. It can be a hard thing to correct. you can use cool head lift, print a small tower next to the print to allow for more cooling or print 2 items at the same time.

I would think you would notice if the bed is moving to much. Unless the step count was changed in the firmware then I dont think that would be the issue. Try printing This It may help show what your issue may be.

I received my replacement printer a few days ago and It doesn't have the problem. Yay for me, stink for you guys. Just hope they find the problem with the old one a report back. At least they have a sample printer.

The travel speed can be really fast. I have mine set to 250 Its the infill speed along with others that you want to keep the same as the print speed.

That too yeah. But if they weld two ends together you probably have to apply pressure to create a bond.. I have tried this a couple of times by hand when my filament was about to run out, but I always ended up with either a weak connection that didn't make it through the feeder or a blob.. which didn't make it through the feeder. I assume this device will probably do a more precise job, but still.. Also, does it cut the filament for you? It needs to be a pretty sharp blade if it were not to leave an edge. Yep I couldn't get the welds good myself. There are enough print issues without adding this to the mix which I can imagine creating more hassles then what its worth and people will put it to one side after many failed prints. If you look close in the video you can see defects of colors blobbed onto the filament as its coming out.

The problem is most different materials require different temps, so it would be good with ones that print with the same temp/speed settings. changing the temp on the fly wouldn't be 2 good as you may get a layer of under extrusion etc. also I don't think you would get a crisp color change as there would be a bit of mixing in the nozzle, you may even get streaks of one color going through.

That's great to hear, Have fun printing

It looks like Creatr Xlabs are still working on this. I had a look on their website and it seems that they hope to release it in October 2015. Would be interesting to see what they come up with and what it can handle.

you can request a sample on this page. its not the file you are after but its a free sample.

Yeah I have seen it, it looks sweet

didn't think of that, but I may convert so not worried there. I just want something to play around with to see what i can come up with. Using parts that you can buy fairly cheap would be good.

Oh, Is the with the printrbot ones?

So you can buy the Bontech mechanical kit for $84.90 or get the Printrbot gear head extruder for $20, and you pretty much get the same thing. Hmmm mes thinks i would go with the Printrbot one.

That's true, I have seen one that use a worm gear so it didn't matter if the distance changed. I may have to find the picture.

You could have the non driven side swing out like roberts feeder. you would just need to make sure the gears mesh properly. the swing out section would be quite large but you could get it to work.

is your picture showing a spring loaded belt tensioner. if so on retractions this will move just as much as play in gears. if you have the right gear profile the play can be very small.

Is the print bed lowering down to far during the print? if not It could be under extrusion.

@macua85 Yes there is. If you put M302 in gcode near the start to allow for cold extrusion

This may help show the correct heights https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2-the-olsson-block?page=68#reply-113220

if you need to adjust the nozzle further down you rotate the round metal part with the holes in it.

Nope, You keep the screw tight. Its there just to stop the heater block from rotating. The set screw is meant to slide up and down in the hole of the alloy plate. It may have got stuck on one edge and that's what @IRobertI is saying. If you wriggle the heater block it should come unstuck and move down.

We have the ability to save topics under our profiles on the forum, Can we also have the ability to save a individual post? Some topics are quite long but may have 1 post by a person that you would like to refer to at a later date or has useful info that would be good to collect. It would be really cool to be able to set it up like the photo album where you can create categories to save them under. like print settings, trouble shooting, or awesome prints.

Yes your nozzle is sitting way 2 high, Should look like this, and have about 1mm gap on the inside from the heater block to the bottom of the fan shroud

You need to protect the heater block from the air flow as you will get temp errors