Labern

I find XT only brittle when its overheated.

Well I have given up on 3d printing all together at the moment. Got A new 2Go and haven't been able to get it to print properly from the start. Wasted to much filament trying to fix it and support is trying to help but no success. So i have lost enthusiasm to print. Its hard to share stuff when you cant print stuff.

The new gopro 4 session would be a good little camera for a quad http://shop.gopro.com/APAC/cameras/hero4-session/CHDHS-101-master.html

Its a lot smaller than I thought it would be. How well does it print?

Enable combing. When this is enabled, the head will travel over the the print to the next point. with it off it will just go straight from one point to the next.

you can slow acceleration under the motion settings on the printer, this can help. I have mine set to 1200 you can also adjust jerk if needed. when printing slow adjust the nozzle temp as low as possible to help improve the quality. at 30mm/s I print at 190deg nozzle and 50deg bed at 0.1 layer height. Not sure about your adhesion problem though. A thin layer of glue should be fine for that print but printing on painters tape helps with things like the toes if you don't want brim. Here are a couple of my frogs that were printed quite slow

This is from the pulley slipping as it wasn't tight enough. you can read this guide which will show you how to correct it. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#protrudingaxes It can be a good idea to loosen some of the pulleys to allow them to rotate and help the belt seat properly into the pulley so they don't ride up, making sure you tighten all the grub screws really tight again.

So I thought that maybe the blobs were only showing on the outside when it was traveling in one direction as it previously would change direction every layer. So i tried spiralize. As the model has 2 outer contours it still changed direction but you can definatly see its every second layer So after Valcrow modified his model for me I tried again. with it only traveling in one direction now you can see its every layer. would be interesting to see if having it only traveling in clockwise direction for the outer contour would show the same defects?

So I took some close up shots of some of the Zebra stripes and a slowww mooww video of the same face as it was printing. I found the showing the pulleys was the best place to film as it shows the movement better. its not very good quality video but when watched closely you can see the movements. As you can see it is actually only producing the zebra stripes every second layer. and they are little blobs where the line is a bit wider.

260 is actually to hot for PLA as it burns it and can carbonize in the nozzle leaving hard deposits. I would recommend only going to 240deg. If you have been printing with Higher temp materials like XT or ABS then use them for the atomic pulls as you can then increase the temp to 260 without burning them.

Something else @IRobertI can add to his guides

I'm a bit far away to attend these meetings and have previously checked the videos as I have been interested in the topics, only to find they don't hold anything useful. Its interesting to see glimpses of some of the creative ideas some people have come up with and would be cool to see a bit more on those 2. Having video really helps show some things that can't be written in text and will help people like me on the other side of the world feel a bit more involved with what's happening and also help with learning more about my printer's

Interesting, they really should send instructions with that stuff.

you don't open the gcode in cura, just save it directly to the SD card. Its hard to see in your photo but it looks like your bowden tube isn't fully down into the white PTFE coupler. New machines?

i think its because this is the default category which is pre-selected. maybe it should be blank to make people select one.

Its all good. At least you got a like. I got nuthin

You mean like i suggested here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/12740-cura-settings-post-insert but you explain it better.

Wall thickness 1.6? nozzle 0.4 x 4 = 1.6 Ich kann nicht Deutsch lesen so weiß nicht, eigentliche Problem ??

Well then that may be your problem. I'm not sure what version board came with the feature but you may be stuck with it always on.

Ultimaker does seem very vague on a lot of these things.

@NBroenner There may be a burr on the inside of the hole where the counter sunk securing screw goes, stopping the sensor and element from reaching the end.

Also check all the pulleys are tight with no grub screws sticking out.

The UM2go's have a new circuit board that allows the fan to be controlled. eg on and off. As older printers didn't have this option it wasn't included in the firmware. So FW 15.02 didn't have this option so the fan turns on as soon as the printer is switched on. the feature was included in the new firmware 15.04go so that's why you see one turn on at 40deg. the 3rd printer may have an issue. upgrade all printers to the new firmware and see if it resolves the issue of with the one not going. If it still doesn't work then check the wiring. You need this to work or you will end up having feeding issues and it will shorten the life of the PTFE coupler. Make sure the solder joints on the fan are still connected, then make sure the plug is connected properly with no loose pins. If all ok the check the main board under the machine to see if it has a loose wire or broken solder joint.

sweet man, Let me know when you get in smaller nozzles. I have been searching for ones that are smaller.

I keep 1 bit for atomic pulls and some times if I'm printing a part with very few retractions then i just shove it up the tube and push another bit behind it. its worked ok for me so far. to lazy to weld them