Labern

This is a problem with small tips or pointy bit. There are a few ways you can try to eliminate this. Its all due to not enough cooling. The best way is to print a small tower beside you object so that it allows time for it to cool before putting the next layer down. If the item is small you can print 2 or more at once. There is cool head lift that you can try. In my experience its not as good and can leave blobs on the side of your print from oozing. There is a minimum layer time that you can play around with. It slows the print speed down when the layer is small, this help prevent hot plastic being put down on top of a layer that hasn't had enough cooling. The problem with this is because its moving slow, the hot nozzle is still touching the plastic which tends to melt it anyway.

You can Contact support from Ultimaker. you can quote the part number found Here or you can contact one of there re-sellers Here

It's ok on my windows pc but no good on mobiles.

Yes XT is a type of material. XT, PET and CPE are all very similar. Ultimaker supply CPE If you try to bend PLA it will break but you can bend XT a lot more before it will break. It also has a higher Glass transition temp which means that you prints can withstand higher temps. if you leave it in a hot car it wont warp.

5% is way to big

What about stretchlets? Like this Even boys like them cos they can flick them like rubber bands. you can also set it to auto print a bunch of them.

I'm just wondering if any of that can make its way through the bowden tube. I'm a bit tired so so not sure if I'm thinking right but with the driven rollers having a bigger circumference, wouldn't they try to feed more then the drive wheel?

How long have you been using it for? Have you found àny wear on the ninja flex?

This can happen on failed prints or it could have leaked if you didn't have enough pressure on the white PTFE coupler. Do you have any photos?

I found that if they are all loose you can rotate them so the screws face the same way. But yeah, not the easiest to get to.

Isn't that what Malaysian airlines does?

Fair enough. Better then swimming I guess.

Ultimaker have a stl that you can print to use to square everything. You loosen all the pulleys, clip on the aligners then tighten the pulleys. There is one on youmagine here

Haha looks like it's veins are popping out

@swordriff I sent you an email about 1.75. Would like to get some extra info.

There is hobbiton where you can go through the Hobbit movie set.

Yep, Xena, lord of the rings, the hobbit (filmed about an hours drive from my place) and the upcoming dam busters movie. Oh and most bollywood movies if you are into indian films. Christchurch is a weird place for a stop over.

Great thanks

Also the Ultimaker community is a great source of information and if anything goes wrong or you want to learn or ask a question, there is always someone willing to help.

Will this be in English and will it be filmed?

Here Where are you located?

What retraction speed is your printer set on, if it's to fast on a lot of retraction this can be the result. Default is 25mm/s which is normally pretty good.

@Dim3nsioneer is correct, the nozzle takes a while to heat up, I normally go into tune and raise the nozzle temp as the bed is heating to make sure it's upto temp in time. And make sure the bottom layer speed is slow. Like 10-15mm/s

If this has resolved the issue then contact support with a before and after photo and ask for a replacement temp sensor. That seems to have been the problem! I replaced the thermal sensor and started a new print. So far no stringing and better looking walls.

Normally you can tell if the print is really hot on PLA as the part has a gritty feel and looks like this sample that came with the printer. In the holes it has stringing.