Labern

My shrouds sits lower then the metal one so it's the same height as when using the original nozzle.

I actually didn't ask Someone offered to do it for me.

Yes the standard block does draw heat away if it touches. My fan shroud is designed with the Olsson block in mind so it doesnt touch. Noted about the hole. Ill fix that. Here is a pic of a flow test done on my shroud. Thought you may be interested. The Original UM shrouds velocity is about 0.6m/s

For anyone who is interested, Here is some pics from a flow test done on my Fan Shroud. The Original UM shrouds velocity is about 0.6m/s

Don't worry about getting extra belts and pulleys. It will come with a hot end pack so will have a extra nozzle. If this wears out then get the Olsson block from Here so you can change the nozzles in a few seconds and to different sizes. Just buy it anyway cos its worth it. The main things you will need are. PTFE couplers. But if you buy This then it will extend the life heaps. Oh and you print This it will also help. Glue stick Sewing machine oil heaps of filament. heaps of Coffee as you wont want to sleep once you get the printer. Then print this and This and your printing life will be heaps better.

I haven't test the strength but I love the look and feel of XT-CF20. When it prints right it's my favorite filament. Just 2 expensive.

I have to pull out at 70deg on mine. just drop the temp till it doesn't stretch and retains the shape of the nozzle

I currently have 2 UM printers. A UM2 and UM2go. My UM2 came a printed perfect from day 1. I had an under extrusion issue on one print after about 1 week so i printed Roberts feeder and its printed fine ever since. any other issues were due to my settings or fancy filaments. My UM2go came and had a printing issue but was replaced. I received a replacement today and it seems to be printing great. As the printers have a lot of mechanical components, they require regular maintenance. I don't think Ultimaker express this well enough. Screws can come loose and sometimes its good to give them a once over to make sure they are all tight. Things like the shafts require light oil etc.. Yes they can arrive with a few loose screws but that's why a good check over can help make sure it will run right. It depends on whether the problems you have are due to mechanical, electrical or settings issues. you may have a faulty printer as parts may fail or you maybe able to realign, tighten, oil etc to get it to run well. Or possibly you have a few print setting off ( but it doesn't sound this way)

I cold pull at 90deg on my Olsson block, but i pull PLA at 70deg, so my temp sensor might be out a bit. Has your PTFE coupler deformed a bit? as it might catch on the edge when you pull up.

I know that this doesn't answer you question but It would be great to see some pictures of your hack. I'm sure others would like to see it also.

Just tape the new sensor to the old one and pull the new one through as you pull the old one out. just pull slowly and every now and again push or guide the new one through if it gets caught. its quite easy to do and you dont need to remove the inside panels. just make sure you tape it so there is nothing sticking out. undo all the clips the hold the cable to the bowden tube to help give you some more room.

There are a few issues that can cause things like this. How Many hours has your printer printed? the PTFE coupler can deform and not allow the filament to flow properly. It can be a nozzle clog that needs a few atomic pulls to clear or you may need to push a fine wire up the center of the nozzle when its hot and rub around the inside edge. Could be the feeder tension isn't enough and is slipping. and lots of other things that I cant remember right now. You can try removing the bowden tube from the top of the hot end and pushing some filament through by hand. see if there is much restriction there. if ok, look at how deep the imprint from the feeder is on the filament. if there are light marks the you can increase the feeder tension.

What you are trying to print is not that easy and takes some experience to master to get it looking really nice. have a read of this as it may help: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/17/highqualityultimaker2/ To have it looking nice you will need heaps of cooling and good clean retractions. I would recommend printing slow and as cold as possible. you can have travel moves fast though. you can sink the model into the bed in cura and only print the top section to test your settings as this is the worst part. once you get that looking nice then try printing the whole object.

In Cura you can switch to layer view, This shows you layer by layer what its doing. so normally you can see if there are issues with your settings or model. Is this your own design or can you share a file so we can see what its meant to look like?

Also check your model in cura layer view. Make sure there are no missing layers or problems with your model. It could be a layer of under extrusion, but as @DidierKlein says, Providing more Info help others understand your issue.

I don't think non ultimaker printer are supported yet. but they will be included in future releases. Its probably best to stick to older versions for now anyways ill the new cura is running a bit more smoothly.

I would think it's the shaft of the linear bearing. You could loosen the 4 thumb screws the holds the hot end assembly together and push the bearing on its own to see if that's the issue. Or alternatively you could loosen the grubscrews on the pulleys for that axis, move it and test then try then tighten 1 at a time is its moving freely till you find the problem pulley. Make sure none of the shafts has moved sideways and is rubbing on the side of the machine.

Yes this is one of the advantages that makes up for any cons.

I have been using it for a long time even printing with XT with no deformation of the bottom. Just a little on the left side. I printed mine with XT-CF20. The bottom is closed to stop the temp error and some have even asked for a more closed in design then the one pictured. Personally I'm not a fan of printed shrouds so I'm in the process of getting metal ones made. It's just taking a bit longer as I have been busy working on other things.

Yes I was mainly talking about the issues people have with the fan shroud. I have had some issues with the longer heat zone that I didn't have before on some prints.

@ultibeet I also went down this path and ended up with no free replacement. Apparently they asked the community and we wanted something different then what Sander stated earlier in the thread. That's why new printers come with a hot end pack and not the 2 PTFE couplers and nozzles mentioned. I think this was another statement that was made before any policy was actually put in place. The flexibility of the Olsson block is great. Its has a few draw backs though but I think the amount of flexibility over weighs toughs.

The Ultimaker team have always said that PLA doesn't work on all metal hot ends, I guess you now know why.

Are the geared drive wheels driven of the extruder motor?

It is funny. Good thing about young people is they can adopt very easily and haven't been taught many bad habits. but older people it can be a bit of "can't teach an old dog new tricks" kind of thing and it's easier to learn things that are similar to what they have already been taught. I just can't believe there are so many users of openscad.

this is from oozing while traveling. Here: is what causes it and how to fix it.