Labern

Thank you! Didn't knew that. I really know very little about cooling, among many other stuff. Also this is my very first mod ever Changed the design to make the air 1cm taller and printed again. This time faberdashery with 0.07 layer and as @anders-olsson said 30mm/s. The print it's really nice. Clearly my fans now lack a bit of punch on the left side. My fans are 414F 4.7 CFM (no idea what this means) and the ones arriving monday are 414H 7.9 CFM (sounds like almoat the double air?). So hopefully with thia new fancap and the new fans I might finally make a perfect robot. Clearly looks much better. But also it needs more cooling. Or a better fancap. Looking good. CFM means cubic feet per minute of air flow, so yeah, the higher the better. These fans won't compress much air, so if you calculate the open area of the fan, then make you outlet this size then it should be pretty true to this reading. If you make it smaller you will hear the fan slow down and the flow will reduce heaps.

Ok cool.

Have you seen the parts available here ?

Oh cool. Well I hope you find all the parts you need. Some people here may be able to help you locate some .

it's something that happens from time to time and can be a battle. A lot of people use Roberts feeder and Spool holder to help prevent these issues. I no longer have the issues after using these.

@ultiarjan is correct, I don't use tape or glue with pla. It sticks well on a clean heated bed. Your settings look fine. 40% is quite a lot. I normally go with 20

Isopropyl alcohol. As @gr5 mentioned, there is a wax coating on the tape. This needs to be removed.

Make sure you don't touch the tape as the oil on your fingers can effect the adhesion.

Then you need to make sure it sticks. Did you clean the tape with alcohol? You may also need to adjust the bed up a small amount.

Was the print stuck to the tape and in the same place at the finish or did it move?

This is a hard question to answer as what can work for me make confusing for you. It all comes down to what type of design you want to do. Most cad software are specific to a certain type of design. So decide on that first. I recommend trying as many as you can to find what works for you best and Google for "how to" tutorials. You will need to learn how to use some features so it helps if there are a lot of demos. I found onshape worked best for me. It's based on solidworks and that's what I used in the past. It also has videos showing how to use every feature and how to draw some objects. But you may find design spark or fusion360 is easier for your mind set.

I haven't really used the new Cura so cant answer some of your questions but what filament did you use. It looks like you have a few layers of under extrusion. This can be from a lot of causes. May have been a filament tangle or various other things. When printing gears like this, sometimes when it's a bit loose, you can just increase the temp a bit. Say 5 or 10 degrees and this can tighten it up nicely.

You may have to mush moisture in your filament, moisture makes it expand a lot and can cause these jams, also wait for the printer to fully cool before turning it off as the rear fan needs to cool the insulator down.

I don't think they have resolved the common dual print issues. as you can see that the dual kit has experimental next to it. I think you will experience all the problems that Ultimaker had and why they didn't release it. It that's ok by you then why not buy all the Ultimaker parts to turn a UM2 into dual print. then you can stay with ultimaker but have Experimental dual print.

@bob-hepple Hope it works out good for you. I'm waiting for a quote back to get some metal ones made. If it doesn't break the bank I may need some testers

Well my old printer was returned and a new one is on it's way, So hopefully some good quality prints will get me back in the mood.

i'm not saying you haven't fixed your problem but Mine came from the factory and had this issue. Even the test block printed using the printer had this issue. So i'm guessing the would have installed it correctly. I also replaced it using the method you have described but the problem was still there. Different slicing did make it show more then others.

@neotko you need to increase the air cavity under your fans. the air needs to build up some speed and pressure before it changes direction to blow on your nozzle. you may find some of the air is not flowing properly as it reflecting off the flat surface under the fan.

It should be OK. You will know when it's drying out to much as the shafts blacken off a bit. Oiling is a part of regular maintenance so just do a quick check before printing every time.

What did you clean the bed with? Make sure you use achohol and don't touch the glass. Is you temp to low. If it's not hot enough it acts like a gewy rubber band and pulls off. Check initial layer height. Make sure it's not to low or high. 0.3 is default Check to see if you feeder is slipping.

It states the correct size shaft required so you would need to check that it would fit. I'm also interested in those geared drive wheels.

If it's only to increase torque couldn't you just use it on the standard UM2 steeper? If you problem is slipping and not lack of power then it would still be an improvement.

you can buy the kit and print the housing. they also have stl's for UM2 its a lot cheaper that way

a;so try and keep the filament in a sealed container or make sure it stays dry and dust free

I just put a slight bend in mine in the area where it touches so it would fit. now it works good.