Labern

@Proxes You can find it on youmagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2 Alternatively you can search "test" in youmagine

Yes this has been there a while. you may just have to wait til the first of July Not sure if its fixed in the new upcoming cura version though. You can just turn the printer off after aborting it and push the filament in by hand before you start the next print.

Yes you can. quite a few people print with it. there are some found here: http://www.blackmagic3d.com/Nylon-s/1815.htm if you click on the one you want then select printing parameters tab, this will give you recommended settings to use for that filament. Use those settings for starters then adjust from there to get the desired results your after.

The smileys don't always work :( I have seen some that didn't work on the original post but did work in a quote when someone quoted the post.

If you provide a photo or stl of what you are printing and your settings you used in cura. This can then help us know what problems you are having and the best solutions for resolving them. Different designs can require different settings to get the best result.

I have the same problem with my Ultimaker robot with moving parts. The gap between the body and head has this issue. Still ended up printing ok but not the best situation.

Generally you don't need to adjust it and shouldn't adjust it at all. If you reduce the bed temp there is the likely hood that the print may come unstuck from the bed. Especially if you turn it off. Having the temp to high on parts with low overhangs can cause them to be ugly. Have high temp at the start help bed adhesion. but if you need low temp there are still ways to make sure the parts are going to stick. I never adjust mine and don't need to, If you have the correct settings then there is no problem. Don't worry about leaving it on during a long print, It wont harm anything, But if your worried about running costs then find another hobby

I tired the IPM with Ultimaker PLA. Low temps with a quite a few retractions and it failed straight away and had to change back.

There was a conversation a while ago where someone was complaining about how its canter-levered out and not rigid enough then someone from Ultimaker R&D mentioned that they tried having it supported from both ends but the quality was worse. But it agree with Blizz, it tends to only judder while going over bits like curling and "hills"

uploaded new design on youmagine with all @Duriel suggestions. thanks for the input https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud#!design-documents

hi @labern , a new update for your fan support , to delete " Heater error" on the first layer with 100% fan, what do you think of that ? Do you think @duriel can publish it on youmagine ? Thanks Attendons la réponse et sinon je t'envoi mon mail en MP. ++ Hey yes of course he can. I'm surprised @duriel has had heater errors even on the first layer with 100% fan. Was it not protected enough? as i have been printing 100% fan from first layer a lot printing mini things and haven't had a problem but I understand that everyone's set up is different. I can easily make additions to my design if required, But its good to see that this can be of concern as I am about to proceed in making metal versions and something like this can be included.

A low roll of filament can also cause it as the filament is tightly wound and doesn't like going through the bowden tube.

This test is meant to be done at 230deg so anything under that will have problems. Increasing the E motor current can make it more hot and end up melting the filament at the feeder. The "tocking" sound is due to to much pressure build up and it skips backwards to prevent the material from being ground down by the feeder. So if this is "Tocking" regularly when printing at the correct temps and speeds means there is something causing to much force for the feeder to feed the material. This can come from tangles in the roll or something else after the feeder. I recently had the same issue in a new machine and found the PTFE coupler was the problem. If you have performed a few good atomic pulls and is clear then you may want to look at what else in line could cause the issue.

It's probably the ptfe coupler and may need to be replaced. But also check and make sure the 3rd fan at the back is on 100% of the time. If this stops it can cause these issues.

You have been printing to cold then and need to up your Temps. There maybe something that causing it to click back. You may need to do an Atomic pull to clean the nozzle. I would recommend printing Roberts feeder. But the test came out fine so try printing your earlier piece at 225 and see how it goes. Then fine tune from there.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2

you definitely need to go hotter at those speeds. like 220 or 225. I would try this speed test first. just load the Gcode onto the sd card and print it at 230deg https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3-s-test-it-here this will show up if you have a problem. if it prints fine then its your settings that you need to adjust.

Speeds I mean

Sounds like you have under extrusion issues over certain Temps

Set all speeds to 50mm/s (except initial layer) and see if it's ok, then adjust speeds from there until you get the results you want

Have you reduced the infill Speed?

Not available on the new forum yet, but it's on the to do list. Look here for list of upcoming improvements https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15753-forum-improvements

Are you talking about the filament Spool? This can sometimes get tangled. You may need to unravel a bit and remove any tangles. When you install a new roll this can easily be done by mistake so should be checked before printing. Some people lay the spool on the floor and so it makes it easier for it to unwind. Another thing that helps is Roberts roll holder. It can be found on youmagine but this won't remove any tangles.