jofleck
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Ich würde wie zerspaner_gerd auch schon angedeutet zu Octorprint greifen da du hier ein paar richtig coole features erwarten darfst. Wenn du keine Lust auf eine manuelle Installation hat, kannst du mal nach OctoPi suchen. Das ist ein fertiges image für den Pi. Du musst dann auf deinem Rechner lediglich eine Datei auf der SD-Karte des Raspis editieren in der du WLAN Name und Passwort eingibst. Auf diesem Wege hast du dann auch sämtliche software für Webcam etc. direkt mit eingerichtet. Einziger Nachteil (und Vorteil zu gleich): Du kannst nicht mehr den UltiGcode verwenden denn das geht nur über die SD-Karte. Du musst Cura (oder welchen slicer auch immer) auf reinen Marlin Ccode umstellen. Das heißt solche Sachen wie retractions oder die Temperatur werden auch vom slicer verwaltet und nicht vom Drucker selbstständig durchgeführt.
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Finally I decided to order a few things to build my Mark2 machine?. I played around with the Cura profile and noticed that the build volume even in single extrusion mode is limited. Is there a trick to unlock this area when printing with only one extruder, or should I use the normal UM2+ profile when printing large parts with only one extruder?
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This filament wasn’t good at all for me. The diameter was variating a lot, buildplate adhesion was horrible (warping) and the color (in my case red) was a transparent red color. Maybe RECs facility had a bad day. I ordered three spools in different colors and all of them had the same problem except the transparent color
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Awesome! Thank you Just for my interest. Why did UM change the feeder motor in the Um2+ upgrade to a less acurate motor (1.8° per step instead 0.9°) ? First I want to have a Mark2 setup working for using PVA in the second nozzle. If this works I'm sure that I want to try more ?
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Any recommendations which motor exactly? I tried to find an original e-stepper in several UM reseller shops but I dint't succeeded ?
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Hey Folks, a few months ago I upgraded my Ultimaker 2 to the + version. So I noticed that I can use my old printhead (with Olson block) for the mark2 upgrade, right? So I need only the feeder. Which motor do I have to buy? I don't want to use the old feeder stepper. My plan is to buy a second UM2+ feeder at AliExpress. But I don't know which Nema stepper I need exactly. Can you help me?
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Thanks guys ? Well, I think I have a lot to do the next weekend with playing around with my settings.
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Currently I'm using PLA filament from 3djake.com (they are selling their own brand which I use and other brands). Im really happy with it. The colors are good and strong and the surfaces are good too. 1kg costs something like 22€ which is really cheap. (notice that the spools are bigger then the usual 750g spools) . Currently I'm testing their own PETG Filament which costs 30€ per kg.
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So the nylon presets are even hotter than the CPE settings. I tested to print the filament with 210°C and noticed that the layers are not sticking together. So the temperature label on the spool must be incorrect. Thanks ?
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Hey Together, I ordered a spool PETG filament from 3djake.com own brand. On the spool there is a recommended temperature of 195-220°C. On the website they recommend 230-250°C. The Cura default CPE setting (240°C) is working well. So printing too hot is not good due to toxic fumes etc. So what is the best temperature to print with PET-G Filament? Maybe someone tried 3DJake filament yet?
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go to http://<ip of your printer>:8080/?action=snapshot -> You should see a snapshot go to http://<ip of your printer>:8080/?action=stream -> You should see a stream If this works try to reset cure connect in the menu of your UM3E. Maybe your printer just returns a wrong or no stream url
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Is it possible that you accidentally switched on the vase mode?
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Hey guys, I upgraded my Ultimaker to the 2+ version. When Im changing Filament and the feeder is running fast, you can hear the the gears. Our UM3 at work doesn't make this noise. I've made a video for showing this problem: Are these noises ok or is something wrong with my feeder?
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Hey folks, I own an Ultimaker 2 Since 2015. Now my hotend is really worn. The plastic parts are broken, the temperature sensor is temporary fixed and Im using a printed Fan shroud for the Olsson block which breaks after each second replacement of the teflon coupler. So I decided to buy the Extrusion upgrade kit to get rid of these problems. The UM2 is a good working reliable printer and I see no reason to replace this printer. I want to keep using this printer as long as possible because I'm a student and can't afford a new one in the next three years. So the UM2+ is available since late 2015 and I'm asking myself how long official replacement parts will be available? Do you know something about this?
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Hey folks, I resolved the problem. Maybe someone has the same problem. So here is the solution: I installed Cura on another Computer and tried it. On this machine everything worked fined with the default settings. So I enabled all settings and compared them with the settings on my primary computer. I noticed that the initial layer temperature was always 20°C hotter than the normal temperature (This setting was hidden). In my Case 230°C for the initial layer was to hot. When the printer began to retract about 20 (!!!) layers later, suddenly liquid filament dropped out and after this I had underextrusion the next few layers. I have no explanation why the initial layer temp was alway 20°C more. I reinstalled Cura and deleted all corresponding files. Now its working like a charm But really, really interesting that a to hot temperature can affect the print even 20 layers later....
