Torgeir

Hi Brad, I'll PT you the config file and the log file. Torgeir

Hi Brad, I've also tried with Win10 and Cura 4.13 (beta) plus Cura 4.12.1 with no success. Here's a screen dump of message. The two files "appear" to be the same, but haven't investigated.. so not that sure.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, this is interesting, I've looked into this for some time and can see this is a panel made for an air craft "simulator" or maybe an "experimental" aircraft? Those tiny letters should really need a 0.25 nozzle in order to print nicely.. But would not this letters be more easy to print if they are immersed in the panel? If you're using black filament for the panel you can add white paint into the letters and make them more visible. Also, you should try the last version of Cura (4.13 Beta), as it print this kind of object much better. This HUD panel is much easier to print than the "Audio -select" panel. As Greg "says", there is a little tuning to do, but look much better now, great progress. Way to go.. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @danz409, Well, this one do not fit you printer very well. You'll need a 24 V heater and this "thermistor" is not as accurate as the PT100 platinum thermistor. (This is the one used in UM2). The better choice would be to upgrade to "the Olsson block". You could use the same heater and temp sensor as on an standard UM2, well if the wires is not ruined.? And sure the firmware need to be changed for the E3d kit.. I bought this kit in Japan, just because it was cheap, -but I'll never going to install this on my UM2+. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @oskars, Not a problem at all 🙂.. I do not think your new fan mount create any problem here. What we're seeing here is "kind of" typical for a standard UM2 printing this model for "filament flow test". The problem might be a reduced diameter where the coupler meet the flange of the Olsson block, so if the torque is a little to hard -the pressure and "some" high temperature may lead to squeezing this critical part of the coupler. If you try to feed the filament by pushing it by hand, it should feed easily, if not check the coupler. Check the coupler passage and the nozzle/housing for "old" collected debris (by using atomic pull). The tension of the special steel nut, holding the nozzle and delivering cooling to the upper part of the extruder. Tip: (Put a little marker on this "special nut" and the base plate so you can check that the nut stay in place.) You also need to use copper paste (to improve the heat transfer) where this nut connect to the base plate of the aluminum "house" containing the cooling radiator. You've to screw this nut until you feel it just met the stop, then turn it a quarter of turn more (90 deg.). This is what I'm using, -sure I print regularly at +255 deg., C. There is a little spacer, that can be printed an installed to space up the aft cooling fan from the aluminum rib. This little "modification" really improve the flow through the radiator. Yes, I'm been using this from day one. Another thing you can do, is to install the black feeder the reverse way, yes turn it 180 deg. This will make your filament go the wrong way, but this can be corrected by swapping two off the wires at the stepper motor connector. This will move the grooved groove from the outside to the inside of the bent filament that runs through the bowden tube. The result of this is less friction, that's reduce the force needed to feed the filament. Since you did not upgrade the feeder unit, this might help to get it working again. That's a bit to do, -but will "normally" work.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir. Ps. I've been writing about all this before, I've to look around a bit.

Hi @oskars & @GregValiant, Well, thanks for the invitation.. 🙂 First, I would not use "PET" as -a first material to refer too after all this modifications. Just use the good (old) PLA as reference for testing in general.. You still have an UM2 that's upgraded, -but it's still not an UM2+ (as your feeder is still the original one)! So your E-step should NOT be changed, you should use 282, as you have not changed to the UM2+ "feeder". OK.? This is just my "briefly" thoughts. Thanks Torgeir

There's only one more thing to try and this is using the Arduino -doing a direct upload of a HEX file. Well, -as far as I can see.. Torgeir

Hi @GregValiant, I'll think you "somehow" hit the nail here, -as (most of) all those new printers want to use Cura as a slicer. With your first printer, fighting the problem of finding/selecting the right firmware -might be a though task to perform for people with their first 3D printer. Torgeir

You guys really tried, -but sometimes nothing work or seems to be right, -keep up the good work. All the best. Cheers Torgeir

Thanks for the feedback. Torgeir

Aha, just tough about the same idea, you'll only need the two temp sensors connected, the two connectors going to the display / controller and power input. The menu should come up asking you to start setting up your heat bed, hmm something like that.. Great, will be interesting to see what happen. edit: And the two safety straps. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @Massassi, You may try to use Arduino software to upload a HEX file (containing UM2+ firmware), if you know the Arduino "software". However, I'll think you should as your supplier for a new functional main board with proper UM2 firmware. Sure, can guide you -but this is something for you to consider as you bought this card from an Ultimaker dealer. Thanks Torgeir

Right you are, it's coasting. Did you ever try using:"Make overhang printable"? Also "adaptive layers", may improve overhang problem much. All in all, use Cura in analysis of the sliced project -before printing as it will save lots of time.. Torgeir

Hi @leedav11, Welcome in here! First, what version of Cura are you using? The first picture "may" show how Cura show lines when Combing is used, -I'll think. The two latter pictures, looking from underside show overhang that's made by a little high temperature.. As this part has an overhang close to the heat bed, it may be heated to much due to the extra radiation from the heat bed. If you turn off the heat bed and using "blue tape" to print on, this might be much better. Another way, reduce printing temp and increase the cooling fan flow may also help. This is just general things, but if you attach your project file, -there is all the information needed for a closer look. In here is lots of people that might have "your type of printer" having more insight around this "problem" using this printer. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Massassi, You have to use Cura and update the printer using a USB cable, the printer will "normally" connect to Cura and then you can do an upload. Here's two pictures (using latest version of Cura 4.12.1). Here is next menu after pressing "Manage Printers..." Hope this help. Good luck Torgeir

Thanks for the feedback. 👍 Torgeir.

I'll just comment your model, -as this model will be a real challenge for any 3D printer of our kind. So, question is: Is all those details needed for an authentic look? Or is those just made by some scanning and "automatic processing" software? I ask this as a "cleaner" model would be "kind of" easy to print, compared with the "authentic"(?) model you're trying to print. Also it would slice much faster in Cura (4.12.1). Thanks Torgeir

Hi @DaveCatt, try RS Components: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/?cm_mmc=World-Selector-Page-Online-ReferralMainWorldList_-CountryListrscomponents.com They are an Ultimaker dealer. Just check out them. Thanks Good Luck Torgeir

Oh., man, "Gunnar". I'll think, we've discussed this issue a while back. We just discussed this and you said there is no need for this relay, -only needed in the "wood" versions (for fire protection).. I'll hope this is the problem, -it will be an easy fix to do. 🙂 Thanks Cheers Torgeir

Hi @FancyboyGinswillington, I've come to think about a failure I got on my UM2E+. Got the same indication as you had in the beginning. In order to get the printer working, I had to re switch the power switch sometimes several times to have it working.. One day this was not possible, -just as you describe. Anyway, after some fault tracing I found that the 24 VDC power relay was not working. So first thing, check that this relay is delivering power to all stepper drivers and to the heaters. If this one fails, the failure you have will be the same. I'll think the power supply switching circuits is more or less the same in all PCB versions of UM2 series (except Connect). Maybe this could be your problem. Good luck. Torgeir Edit: Forgot your random question. I'm never afraid of this as I have installed two fans (2 * 12) VDC in series, which keep the PCB "cold". But you have a good point there .. 🙂

Hi @FancyboyGinswillington, Does the Z stepper move at all? I would do a factory reset first. Also the stepper driver might be the one failed. If you have the PCB with "the" original five stepper drivers (the extra extruder E2), it might be possible to redict the Z using this "free" E2 driver. (There is a complete wiring for this UM2 to be used, -as you're familiar with electronics..) Thanks Torgeir Edit: If you measure the voltage at the other side of the R111, you will see the switching voltage for PA7. If this voltage is zero all the time due to a short in the cap, then it is easy. ref: @gr5. So not needed to pull off the Cap. Good luck.

Forgot one thing.. I'm assuming (🤔) that the firmware detect "a loss" of this sensor, -and will not continue printing before the error is fixed.. So, even if you deselect it, there is still an error preventing the printer to work.

Hi Eric, Greg already guided you and sure this will/should (?) be an easy fix. Here is a link to a site in Sweden, giving details about how to release those small pins. https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Just roll down a little and you'll find the same type of connector, but here only 2 pin -just the same locking type and series. Anyway, good luck. Torgeir

Hi there @kmanstudios, Sorry to hear about your mishaps. Let's see a picture(s) where the broken wire is located on this sensor and maybe someone can shear some more info about it. -Even if the wire is broken, -there might be a fix for it.. 🙂 Regards Torgeir.

Hi @SilverDynamic, I doubt this is an error due to firmware update, -but this very much looks like a faulty forward fan (the one cooling both nozzle "cold" end). If this fan stop, due to collected filament stringing blocking the fan or due to an electrical issue. The heat creep up into the upper tube and softening the filament to early. This issue block/reduce the feeding and will lead to under extrusion that finally may stop all feeding.. This is a known issue. Good luck Thanks Torgeir