kmanstudios

I did not know they offered that. I will have to check that out. Thanks for mentioning that!!

That is interesting. Is there any way that you can make the model available without violating any terms or conditions?

That is a very nice flowchart. I do find 3D Coat to be more intuitive than ZBrush though. A lot cheaper too.

By my tests so far, 2mm should be just fine for inset testing. How does it look in layer view? Can you post a screenshot?

Dim3nsioneer said it properly. Welcome to when my communication skills go kaflooey. Thanks for getting that straight.

Did you do a factory reset? That seems to have caused people troubles.

Yeah, the days of super large programs is here now. The Atari was a really hip machine. And, yeah, I remember when you could carry your programs AND files on one or two floppies. Yeah, I get corrected a lot here. But it is worth it to learn. Just yesterday I tried to remake a file for someone and made a goof on it. sigh........Dunno how smart I am though...I see guys here that just blow me away.

Man did you ever hit the nail on the head with this one! You're not telepathic are you? I could not believe the looseness of the language used in some progs and tutorials - and the web generally I'm just checking out your link, thank you kman. I taught 3D for about 17 years at a university. It used to frustrate me about how confused people would get when they would get half assed info from the internet and then try to break the old habits and instill new, solid fundamental habits, along with proper language. But, even so, it can get sloppy when speaking to people because we all tend to get used to speaking within one area of discipline. What we called texture is just materials/shaders in the usual virtual world. But texture in this industry is the actual detail relief of the mesh object. And, it can get a bit confusing. Good luck with Designspark. I know several people here have used it and really speak to its abilities.

3D Modeling can be a pain. Mainly because the language used by the makers of the software use sloppy language. Example: Specularity can be called, gloss, shine, etc. Example: Surface of Revolution can be called a lathe, revolve, etc. Although they all use basically the same paradigms when in certain modes of operations. Nurbs will always be like nurbs, mesh will always have triangles, etc. It is tough to recommend a package as each one can be the magic tool just because it suits a thought process of the individual who is using it. Person A can love program A but it is anathema to Program B and vice versa. Have you tried doing any tutorials for the individual packages you have tried to learn? Some are better than others. But one that lays out solid fundamentals really solves a lot of troubles for you. That is the problem with most learning materials you can find: They tell you how to make something by way of step 1, step 2, etc, but they do not let you know the "how" of it working so that you can build on it. Have you tried Design Spark Mechanical? https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/our-software I hear really good things about it and I did like the trial version of its high end cousin, "Spaceclaim."

Try cutting back on your temperature. I have found that going back about 5°C has done wonders for my prints.

Could be the model too. What material are you using? How deep is the text supposed to be?

Hey, I appreciate it :)I will have to look at the netfabb thing that he posted to see how it turned out. That thing was a mess. Sadly, too many people do not know how to model. That thing was a mess. I did do a double check on it and cleaned it just a bit further if you want to re-up the file. The same link works as I just overwrote the previous file. It was a bit of guess work with jutting angles and corners. http://www.kmanstudios.com/Nikon SB-600 Flash Color Filter Adapter (Vivitar 2800)_Fixed.STL

I have only tried a tiny bit with Cheetah or Armadillo. And, nothing that small. But maybe if you cut the temp back a bit? That would be my first try and then second would be to slow down the print speed.

you are welcome

I am not sure I understand.... These are PVA supports with no issues.

If you are on Cura 2.3 or later (that is when I started using Cura), go to the configure Cura under the 'Preferences' drop down. In settings uncheck the "Automatically drop models to the build plate." It may have been called something else in the past. But that will give you a lot of freedom to put in any value into the z field in the move type in box and it will hold that value.

You may be referring to the 'ironing' in experimental features.

Wow...the forum is really cranky today. It has eaten every one of my replies and just now would not display an inserted link properly. Cannot get fixed fast enough!!

Forum is really bad today...eating replies and now will not even display a link properly. Grrrrrrrrr Wow, that was a sloppy file. I am surprised you could get anything out of it. I went ahead and remade it by 'tracing' over the master file and snapping at its vertex points. I am not sure if it could have been fixed. I have no idea how anybody ever got anything printed off that. Here is the fixed file.

Damned forum ate my reply,......GRRRrrrrrrrrr *TWICE!!!* At least this time I copied it before posting. OK, I went into a file I am actually using and created some examples of what I meant. This is the setup file with actual measurements in mm. This is the resulting slice and you can see it picks up all the pieces as needed. In this case, the really tiny bumps (0.107mm) are meant to be just bumps to act as a slide stop. Will I need it to be larger? I will find out. But, you can see that the slicer did pick up the detail at approximately 1/4 the nozzle size. And, the lettering is very sharp now because it is slightly larger than nozzle size. And, this is only at 0.2mm layer height. This is an actual prototype print I made, that is smaller in physical size than the images I am showing above. The print was only about 0.2 mm deep and that is why I did offset the type just over nozzle width in the newer, larger model.

Define 'coarse.' It will always be limited in X & Y by way of nozzle size for wall thicknesses and in the Z by way of layer depth. But a subtle inset can be achieved because it is an offset of the outer wall and not limited by nozzle size. I may have to cobble up something that shows what I mean if this is not clear.

Until the UM3 series can be modded up to withstand those temps, I am stuck in envy land. But I am watching this thread to learn for the future. Thanks for sharing!

That made me laugh kman. You know the saying: Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...I'll turn 76 next January Did not know that saying, but I always lived by "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained." Pfffft, physical age has nothing to do with it until it is time to move. You are only about 9 years older than me, so I know you groan a bit when you have to bend over and squat and hear the pops and clicks, but the brain, it still thinks you are 18

That is a good idea in my thinking. But as a single printer user, let me 'splain my process that I have found good for me, at least: Slice prints Send to queue in the connect Each slice is something that will have a different colour or something that makes it stop until I override the settings Slice and send, slice and send, etc.... At each pause, I will change glass plates, wipe with alcohol, brush on PVA slurry and then override the settings to let it print I adjusted the active level settings to always to make sure the active level corrects for changes in glassplate thickness.....yes, it can be that critical, especially if your glass plates come from different sources (lotso' reasons for that) Rinse and repeat as needed

Echoing the above, start small and work your way up, you will find a lot of things to print, that you need to print to test the machine. Overhang tests Cubes...yes cubes to practice with different things and easy to check reliability Things that need PVA and things that do not If you start out like I did, you will burn through a lot of plastic just making the basic things to get adjusted to the process, like what you see in your slicer (an approximation of what it will print) and what will actually print, difference between layer height qualities for certain objects (Steep curves vs. Shallow curves), different infills and different wall thicknesses. It may seem crazy, but a lot of 30 minute prints beat the heck out of hours or even day long prints for fine tuning your process. Also, you have to figure in failed prints, which will happen from time to time. It lessens as you gain experience, but, it is tech. And, tech will fail at the weirdest times. "Murphy's Law" was named for a reason. Also, above, you can see that filaments are just like anything else: People will have varying favourites. But, starting with Ultimaker filaments are not a bad place to start and check a different brand every now and then. The Ultimaker filaments are what is coded for in the base Cura Setups and much easier to mess with when learning. But, I have used Faberdashery and ColorFabb. I like Faberdashery, but the fact that it is not on a spool really sucks for me. I also prefer the Colorfabb PLA/PHA stuff as it seems the most consistent from spool to spool and colour to colour. Do not be afraid of off brands like Matterhackers. They are not too bad and I use the heck out of their PVA. You will also start out with one idea and it will morph over time into different things as you gain experience. For instance, I started out with the idea that colour made no difference. That is because I started out using a model making sensibility: Piece it, glue it, sand it, paint it, finish it. But as soon as I discovered how to make translucent objects to use in lighting, I gots boatloads of colours in the transparents and translucents, and in PLA, PETG and whatnot to see which ones work well. And, finally, have a ball!! Have fun!! And, stick around...there is so much to learn and I keep learning just by reading almost everything in every thread to find and draw parallels. Even though I am on a UM3E, I find great info from any printer and response as it is still all the same basic philosophy.