Swissengineer

I know it is one more parameter, but at least the temperature is controlled instead of now depending of the room temperature, wind, humidity, etc.... Much more stable environment. By the way this is why we have interns....

Also, after spending 2 hours cleaning our printer, please remove the dead space below the printbed where only scrap plastic goes and you can't reach to clean! And as said before, please, ultimaker, please, close this da** printer!!!!!!!!! Why was it so difficult to put a door and a fan controlling inside temp?!? Also a better UI would have been good....

I also see some bad Brim, you should do a bed calibration. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21330-what-does-a-successful-first-layer-look-like

How does the filament look? If you see any grinding, it might be humidity like they said. The error is probably because he removed the printcore without going into the menu and removal printcore procedure. Priting with PVA is not a simple task. Make sure to always store the spool correctly. Like my friends said, if the filament has too much moisture then the only way is the heat it up at 50-55°C for 1.5 - 2 hours inside a cardboard box to trap the heat. (Tomhe words) Also as they said, if your printer is in a high humidity area, a long print print may ruin the spool, then you need a feeder box with desiccant. Also, in your case B.A.M. might be better than PVA but you need to check. Or maybe no support at all depending on the overhang angle...

Like the idea! but how about PLA printing? Also the dust build up worries me...

Wow awesome!! I was also planning something similar for our company, maybe a smaller version, can you share the CADs?

By the way @SandervG when is the next AMA?

Google translate

hello, I'm having this issue since the introduction to cura connect. I'm running latest firmware and software versions. When I connect to the direct IP adress of our UM3E, the work in progress is completly wrong! And in Cura is the correct name, but the progress is also wrong. The only correct thing here is the screen of the printer!!!!!!

waiting to see the video!

wow that's big!

up

I don't think their goal is to change the filament size, that would be a lot of effort for nothing, and they already have the 0.25 core...

Hey guys, I started experimenting with B.A.M. (+ ABS), but I was surprised to see that I can't go lower than 0.15 as layer height for standard profiles. What is the limiting factor here?

Nice rig but why win8.1 ??? why?? worst windows in history! cheers

Are you sure your problems are with the printer? or the interface between the chair and computer....

I've also got another idea, if you don't need a really really fast connection, you could use a smartphone as controller, and one arduino for the crane with a bluetooth shield and a small controller board like in the video for the stepper. I think this would be the simpliest way.

I think you should start first with two boards, one master and one slave, connected through an UART communication. Your Master board with your touch screen , and your slave board with the motor and other peripherals. Then when everything works perfectly, I would add the wireless feature. Wireless is not as easy as it sounds, and can be a pain to program and a pain to debug, so first be sure that everything works before going wireless. Finally I would not go into 2.4ghz necessarily, you have many other options that can be much simplier , like zigbee, bluetooth, radio etc... To resume: Go to the essentials first! Make sure everything is set up, all you registers that are exchanged, all the electrical parts also and finally go wireless. I forgot to mention that , it exists some modules that enter with a simple UART then transforms it into a complicated wireless protocol then back to an UART in the other end.

Something to consider is that you will not have a feedback with usual RC controls. I would also add mechanical switches to know where your start is (just like 3d printer if you noticed, every time the printer starts , it gets its zero position going to the mechanical switches.

is this what you want?

I didn't get what you actually want to do with the electronics part? What do want actually (electronics speaking), drive a motor (dc or brushless)? or a servomotor? please attach the links of the components you are thinking of so I can explain to you. or even better a small schematic (on paint) with just the electronic parts and how they interact with each other

Thank you guys for the shared files, but I was really disappointed when I saw the schematics.... sorry ulti but schematic is crappy, black and white? really? are you in the 80s? No titles, no comments just rectangles with part numbers, so if I want to understand I need to look into every component... this is not really professional.. Only a few things that caught my eye when I looked at the schematics: - NE555 ?? this thing still exists? - ADC ref Resistor divider... I'm going to cry... - why you guys don't get a 230V heater instead of using 24V and having a huge psu?? - 10k pull downs on psu line??? what?

Actually , I took a look at the schematics, but I lost patience to try to understand the ulti schematics all in black and white...

Not yet, did not have the time, but I have plenty of ideas for how to do it

An year ago I had to choose a 3D printer for my company (with no price limitation), and I chose an Ultimaker 3 Ex because : - open source - open hardware - open software - Not a a company that started open source then was bought by the biggest 3D name (stratasys) then closed everything for the user, with no compatibility with other filaments brands, no 3rd party brands parts (like solex -_^) - awesome community (that really helped me when I started) - support filaments like PVA with a real dual extrusion - good repetability - good reputation - no regrets the things I like about the makerbot is the awesome look, enclosed printer, HMI, and filament roll placement, I cannot tell about the print quality because I never used one.