Brulti

You should probably post this question on the AMA thread so it gets asked to the XSTRAND people:

I'll start then! ? - How many printers did you broke during your tests? - Using the Mohs scale of hardness, what was the hardest material you were able to successfully print and what level of hardness was it? - Which of your currently available material gave you the most troubles during the conception and testing phase? - Do you think that 3D printing can one day become as easy and simple than the famous replicators seen on Star Trek?

If I set up a custom Material with 'Default printing Temperature' at 200°C and a custom Profile with the same parameter at 230°C, which of those takes precedence and will be applied, material or profile? Or is there no overlap in the settings, ie 'Default printing temperature' is only recorded with the custom Material and not with the custom Profile?

Mostly everything that would wear down a standard nozzle. I bought a handful of abrasive materials some time ago, then bought a 3DSolex Everlast after I wore down one of my AA cores. I'm currently testing laywood, also got some glow, some reflective material and bronzefill.

I can confirm that Cura clogs up memory on both Win10 and Win8, even when not launching a print or not going to the 'Prepare' screen.

That was quite interesting and informative, both in an historical perspective (now I know why 'Olsson block') and a more practical perspective (wear-resistant printhead that can print radiation shielding material ? ). What will be the price range of the new CC Ruby printhead?

You can edit your message to change it.

I have nvidia cards on both my professional and personal computer, no problems so far with opengl with 3.5.1.

No worries @yellowshark. No harm done.

?? I had to reboot Cura Connect recently, it kept telling me an old print job was finished and to remove it from the build plate. It was annoying, though it didn't prevented me from printing. A quick reboot o cura connect cleared the problem.

The printing time estimate is wrong on both 3.5 and 3.5.1. I started a print Friday that was supposed to take 1d 20h 47 mins. Sliced in both win8 and win10, on Cura 3.5 and 3.5.1, printed using UM PLA white and PVA support, standard settings with 0.06mm layer height. Slicing always gave me the same estimate on both computers, but it took about 5 hours more than what was estimated. I cannot post the stl as this is a print for a customer and I'm not authorized to share the file. First time that I personally see such a discrepancy between estimate and real printing time, I know others have had the problem from time to time. I've had prints, even long ones, take a few minutes more than the estimate, but 5 hours is a first for me.

Right click -> Select All Models followed by Right Click -> Merge Models.

That was my first thought as well.

Three thousand seven hundred twenty to one! Sorry... ? And you're right, I read a bit too fast, adhesion wouldn't fail in what you describe. @yellowshark I've never tried the 'print on by one' feature but, in the case at hand, I don't see how it would be possible to print 10 of such tall objects because the axles would hit what you previously printed. Plus the size of the printhead on a UM3, while smaller than the UM3E, would probably not allow the printing of so many objects together anyway.

Yes. There is a feature that allows you to change the infill density on part of your print, it's called infill mesh. Her's a video tutorial by @DidierKlein:

I never used Autocad or Fusion 360, but since the problem is the coordinate system, perhaps you could change the center of the two cut pieces in and place it as if it was the complete piece? Thus, for the cut pieces, the {0,0,0} coordinates would be located on the wall that will stick with the other cut piece. Then CURA should be able to merge them without a hitch.

@yellowshark I did mean one model at a time, I don't think that 'Print Sequence: One at a time' would work with those models: they're too tall. You can easily print one model at a time with little wait time in between prints if you just swap out the glass bed. That requires you to have two of them handy, which was an assumption that might not be true for @Fulv. @Dim3nsioneer I don't think that you can ever be 100% sure that the print will not fail, even if you take every precautions possible. You can lower the probability of failure, but never eliminate it 100% Mostly because there are also external factors that you cannot control and always a part of luck. Having tried several times to print multiple big pieces, and lost many hours due to unforeseen problems causing the print to fail, I'd rather loose 10-15 minutes between prints than 15 hours or 20 hours if it fails near the end, or when I'm not in front of my printer, and have to start again. Even more with PC since it isn't the easiest material to print with. But, to each their own.

Actually, since printing 10 parts together will not save you time compared to printing them one by one, I would advise you to print them one by one. PC requires glue, brim and an enclosure, it will be easier to print them one by one, and you will not loose the whole batch if there's a failure at some point. It's better to have to restart one part that failed two hours into printing than ten that failed fifteen hours into printing.

Ok, thanks for the explanation.

Sorry, my mistake, I didn't write that properly: I meant when I try to upgrade my Custom profiles for specific materials that are not UM-brand. I was doing test with Laywood with my Everlast 0.6 core, and every time I adjusted a setting for the Laywood profile and clicked on 'Update profile with cureent settings', Cura would create either a copy of the profile (named Laywood #2) or one named 'Empty' instead of updating my Laywood profile. I need to close and reopen Cura to have the changes taken into account in the Laywood profile, and the Laywood #2 and Empty profiles are still there.

Profiles are weridly updated with 3.5.1. I have a specific profile for my Everlast 0.6 core, and, when I try to upgrade it by clicking on the little arrow then selecting 'Update profile with current settings/overrides', Cura will instead create a new profile. This new profile will either have a similar name to the profile I was trying to updater or just be named 'Empty'. I need to close and reopen Cura for the update to be taken into account, although the 'Empty' profile is still there.

Blender could do the trick as well. It's free, open-source with a massive community currently working on the next version. You can find many resources online teaching you the basics, and even some books written in dead-tree form. It can be used to design objects to your exact specifications of size, and it can also go to the next step of animating. Just look at the movies that the Blender Foundation made using only Blender.

Do you have an enclosure for the printer? It's quite mandatory if you want to ensure good printing with ABS. Basically, for ABS, here's what I do: - use UHU glue stick and apply a liberal amount of it on the print bed, - place the enclosure over the printer, to ensure that temperature remains constant throughout the printing, - set a brim to help with adhesion. Once I figured this out, all of my prints with ABS came out perfectly.

Settings guide is still unreadable with dark theme on 3.5.1.

I fully agree with this. There are many paying softwares out there that aren't better than their free counterparts.