Smithy

No it is just on/off This is easy, when you change filament you usually do a unload and load. During the load the nozzle is primed as long as press OK on the printer. So let it prime as long as the color is fine and not mixed.

Da wir nicht in der Kristallkugel lesen können, wäre es hilfreich wenn du uns ein paar mehr Infos geben könntest. Ich nehme an du druckst über USB, versuch das ganze einmal mit der SD Karte, was sowieso die bessere Variante wäre.

The same way as you use the UM cores. I guess the warning is normal and you cannot avoid it. Cura just sees a non UM print core and thinks the profile you want to use is not compatible with this core. But I am not 100% sure if there is way to suppress the warning. It is not intended to remove the nozzle from the UM core. Of course it works by force, but I have already read that it is then very difficult to reinsert the nozzle again so that everything is tight. So try it, but don't use the core if the nozzle is not again in its correct place. Otherwise material will ooze out and fill up your print head.

Here is a video how to change the nozzle:

I am a little bit confused now, first you asked about ToughPLA, now it seems you already used the Core. I know you have to be very careful when unscrewing the nozzle on the 3DSolex Hardcore, you have to use pliers to hold the block and then unscrew and screw the nozzle. Otherwise you will break the Hardcore! When you are not able to screw it back all the way, then there are good chances that the print core oozes again. But don't use too much force to screw it in. Try to clean it, maybe you need to heat it up again to be able to get off the material. And when everything is ok again, then you can just use the hardcore as any other print core on your printer. It is basically a print core with exchangeable nozzles from another company. That's it, no more magic.

Can you save our Cura project (File -> Save) and post the file here, then we can have a look at it.

Don't stress please..... Thanks! 🙂

Fantastic idea and great feature! It was always annoying that the seam was not really straight in some models. Will give it a try the next days.....

Prüfe einmal ob der hintere mittlere Lüfter funktioniert. Der ist für die Kühlung der Heatbreak verantwortlich und wenn der nicht mehr geht, führt das zum verstopften Hotend.

Can you please be a little bit more specific and elaborate what you mean exactly? What do you want to adjust and where?

Yes, I guess the printer was still connected to the PC.

Normally it is a small blob in the corner, but there was a bug in the firmware which caused the prime blob to never stop. It happened not always, but I got it several times after I canceled a print job. Then the next job had this issue. After a restart of the printer everything was fine again. I don't know it this bug is already fixed in the latest firmware. So to be on the safe side, I suggest to restart the printer (power cycle) after you have canceled a job.

Looks strange and I guess your model is not watertight or has some other issues. It seems your model is not really solid everywhere. Try to repair the STL file, with the 3D Builder included in Windows 10 or use the netfabb online service.

You can write your own plugin, but be aware that you are limited what you can do with plugins. A good starting point is the GitHub page https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Plugin-Directory and then check some example plugins. I never wrote a plugin for Cura, but I doubt you can put the buttons like you show on your screenshot.

🙂 For the UM3 it is enabled per default, the S5 has it disabled per default. So if you print a skirt around your object it is not really needed to have also the prime blob, but it doesn't bother me, so I don't really care about it and on the other hand a little more priming before the start always helps.

It is called Prime Blob and ensures that your nozzle is primed before starting the print. You can turn it off if you want in the Cura custom settings.

You cannot find it online, contact your reseller.

Don't worry about the coupler on the Um3, it is built in the print core and you cannot change it. Your link shows the Um2. I printed PC with 280C without any ö problems.

Why does your screenshot shows "not supported" in the profile? Do you use strange layer heights or line widths? Do you use the AA print core? Another reason could be that your middle fan is not working. Check that, the fan starts automatically as soon as the print core is over 40° and should run all the time. This fan is responsible to cool your hot end in the upper part. Other reasons could be, tangled filament, feeder issues, or something like that. But I would first check the middle fan.

I have not 3DSolex Hardcore so I don't know why or if even it is not recommended to print ToughPLA with the HardCore. But, why should you ruin your UM PrintCore with ABS? As long as you don't print abrasive materials you can print every material with the UM AA core. Or do you print reinforced ABS with GF or carbon? In that case you should use the Hardcore or the UM CC core. Basically ToughPLA is a material which is stronger than PLA but has the same glass transition temperature. Each manufacturer uses its own name for it, so don't be confused, it is more less the same.

When you get a sizzle sound during printing PVA, it means that your PVA spool has absorbed too much moisture from the air. PVA is very sensitive and should always stored in a dry place. Never leave your PVA spool on the printer. You can try another spool of PVA or dry your spool on the heated print bed over night. Before you print you should also clean your nozzle with some Atomic pulls.

I don't know if the Buildtak works with the S5, but be aware that you cannot disable the active leveling on the S5.

Es gibt dazu ein eigenes Projekt welches schon mehrfach wenn nicht hundertfach erfolgreich umgesetzt wurde. Allerdings nicht mit der "russischen" Methode mit einem Y-Splitter. Lies dich einfach ein und wenn du Dual drucken möchtest, dann solltest du es so machen wie es dort beschrieben ist. https://magnetic-tool-changer.com

Not 100% sure but material related settings should go into material profiles. So you should create a new material in the settings and then select this custom material.

You will not find a generic chart for PLA because each manufacturer uses different components zu mix the PLA. So best you check the website of the manufacture to get the needed data sheets. i.e. Colorfabb PLA https://colorfabb.com/files/FKUR/TD_BIO-FLEX_V_135001_en.pdf https://colorfabb.com/files/FKUR/MSDS_BIO-FLEX_V_135001_en.pdf