Smithy

To extend or setup everything else, you should take a look in the printer definition files. Additionally the build plate you see in Cura is just a picture, so even if you extend your build volume, the picture remains as is. But as far as I know the grayed areas are build dynamically depending on the printer definition. I am on a Mac and the printer definition files are within the application package. You can copy the UM2+ profile from there and place it into the user configuration folder (definitions). Otherwise you would loose your profile after a Cura update. You have to search for the folder in Windows. The folder is called definitions and the file you want to copy is named ultimaker2_plus.def.json

It's a pity that the UM3 was not considered, because it has to struggle with the same problems as the S5. I would really like to be able to print accurately with the UM3. Otherwise it sounds like an improvement if it works as promised. I am curious 🙂

Are you using the correct firmware? So in your case the UM2+ firmware.

Yes it is, you can find the source code on Github, fork it and build your own version if you want.

The middle fan is responsible to cool the hotend and turns on automatically. Depending on your mainboard in the UM2, the fan starts immediately when you power on the printer or when the nozzle has a temperature higher than 40°C. So if the fan makes too much noise, then a new one can help and I would buy an original one from an Ultimaker reseller. If you have an older mainboard installed then the fan starts after power on and there is no workaround for that, except to change the main board to a newer version.

I would contact your reseller and they should send you a new fan. The noise you describe is not normal, I hear on my S5 just a normal fan noise, nothing more.

Deine Underextrusion muss auch nicht vom Printcore kommen oder hast du es schon mit einem anderen versucht? Schau dir einmal den Feeder an ob der sauber ist, vor allem die Zahnräder. Die Bowden Tube kann es auch noch sein und gehört gewechselt wenn sie zu alt bzw. zu viel Reibung erzeugt.

Please post feature requests also to Github. It is not guaranteed that feature requests will be noticed here.

🙂 That's really funny, but very real.

Ich glaube nicht, dass deine Probleme mit dem Verschleiß vom Printcore zusammen hängen, aber teste es selbst, es ist ja eh ein 2. 0.4er AA dabei. Meine persönliche Meinung ist, dass die Printcores wesentlich länger halten als man glaubt, also an die 500-1000h glaube ich nicht wirklich.

Of course it is always good to connect the DryBox and the feeder to the Bowden tube, but in practice this is not necessary. I simply use my polyboxes without any additional connection and have no problems with it. I am therefore not sure whether it is worth the effort for the conversion.

The part fan is usually set to 0% for the first layer, because you want little or no cooling there, so the first layer adheres well to the glass. The middle fan is responsible for cooling the print core and cannot be controlled via Cura. This fan starts automatically as soon as the Printcore exceeds 40°. If the fan is not running during printing, you should try to fix it. If the middle fan does not work, the heat in the Printcore climbs higher and higher and at some point no more filament can be transported.

Currently this is not possible, it is only working for material profiles from the Marketplace. What have you set for Material Type? If I remember correctly this is the key, so this field should be set to the material you select on the printer when loading.

Yes, like all materials that need a quite high bed temperature. But I have learned if often depends on the shape of the model. I had a model which I printed with ToughPLA and had terrible problems to get it off the glass and chipped it several times. Other users reported they have no problems at all and the parts comes off itself when the glass is cold. With another print (model) and ToughPLA I also had no problems. So give it a try, start with glue stick and if it doesn't stick, try something stronger, but I am sure a glue stick will not be enough.

Have you set the fan speed also to 100% for the first layer? In Cura are separate settings for the first layer and the rest.

That's something only Buildtak can answer. But the Filafarm Switching System is working for the S5, because it is not sensitive against the hot nozzle. I have this system on the UM3 and active leveling works fine with the plate. https://www.filafarm.de/collections/wechselsysteme/products/switch?variant=12254570217583#

Angeblich soll da noch einiges kommen, aber ich glaube nicht mehr daran, weil die App hat sich eigentlich schon lange nicht mehr weiterentwickelt. Ziemlich sinnlos finde ich, dass die Pushmitteilungen beim Start und Ende eines Druckjobs kommen, aber wenn z.B. der Filamentsensor beim S5 meldet, dass es ein Problem gibt, dann kommt keine Pushmeldung. Ich denke jemand hatte einmal die Idee wir machen eine App und dann ist das ganze wieder eingeschlafen.

For Colorfabb HT you can use the CPE+ settings for a good starting point. For bed adhesion you should go with something stronger, like Dimafix, 3DLac or UM adhesion sheets.

The best way is to setup you materials correctly in Cura. When you add a custom material, you should duplicate a generic profile which the material is based on. Then the GUUID of the material is the same as the generic material you select when loading and then no override message comes up. I wrote some time ago a deeper description of that topic:

Not tried yet myself, but S5 with CC Red core is fine to print such materials. Let us know when you have results!

Ich vermute deine Schrift oder deine Details sind zu dünn. Wenn du mit einer 0.4er Düse druckst, sollten die Details mind. 0.4mm dick sein, sonst kann es dir passieren, dass sie gar nicht verarbeitet werden. In Cura gibt es eine Einstellung "Print Thin Walls" die kannst du versuchen, damit verarbeitet Cura auch Wände die dünner sind. Das muss aber dann nicht heißen, dass das Ergebnis gut wird. Bei so kleinen Sachen solltest du dir eine 0.25mm Düse zulegen, dann tust du dir leichter und das Ergebnis wird schöner. Weiters langsam und so kühl wie möglich drucken.

No problem, here we go.... EngineeringProfile_S5.curaprofile

I would first check the hardware, tighten belt, pulleys, and so on. Check if the head can mode smoothly when the steppers are disabled and you move it by hand. Maybe you need some oil on the rods, or wherever your printer need it. Then check the slicing settings, print slow < 40mm/sec and check the result again. Maybe you print a way too fast and your printer cannot handle the speed.

I am running 4.3.0 but some settings are hidden. Just use the search field to make them visible.

I guess this is a Benchy, so it should be not a failure in the model. Which printer do you have?