Smithy

My mistake, I meant exclusive. If the object is fused together, then a positive expansion makes it more worse. Negative expansion = shrink the whole model = clearances gets wider Positive expansion = expand everything = clearances gets smaller The model works, I printed the same some months ago on an UM3. I cannot see something wrong with your settings. I don't use z hop, but I don't think this is the reason. Do you use a quality filament? Some cheap ones have a non consistent diameter and could cause such issues. Here my settings for the S5 when I want to print such things:

It looks like your bed is not leveled correctly and the distance bed - nozzle is too big.

Ahh ok, got it 🙂 Maybe this helps https://www.calculator.net/volume-calculator.html

Glad to hear that it is working for you again. 🙂

Holes are always a problem and comes out slightly smaller than designed. The difference between the two printers could be the speed and jerk settings. The UM3 print head is heavier than the UM2, so there are other default settings, specially the jerk speeds. So to get a consistent result, you have to play with these settings. Slower speeds and slower jerk speeds (best to set it to the same value as the print speeds) helps a lot. And equalizing the print speeds (inner, outer wall, infill, ...) helps too.

The Bondtech QR includes everything.

In Fusion360 there is a function to calculate the volume (of water).

I cannot confirm that your glass is really a UM spare part, but I ordered recently a spare glass for my S5 from iGo3D and it comes also just in a simple bag like yours. And regarding glass bed is not rounded, I have the feeling the older glass beds from the UM2s are more rounded than the glass bed from the UM3. So I guess the newer ones are just a little bit rounded and not so much as the older ones, because there is only one spare glass for UM2, UM2+ and UM3.

I checked it now myself, to enable the two factor authentication you have to scan the QR code with your app (google authenticator or Authy or whatever you use). So maybe you can remember which app you have used in the past, there you will find the code for the login.

This has nothing to do with your printer, you have enabled the two factor authentication for your UM login. So you it is not only secured with your password but additionally with this code. You are right, the code is a onetime code and normally you have to use an app which is able to generate these codes. I haven't enabled it for my account, but normally (on other sites) you get the instructions how to configure your app and also the backup codes during the initial setup of the two factor authentication for your login.

I'm glad it was the reason and it's working again.

Due to the fact that it is not intended for the end customer to repair such things, the recovery image is also not available for download.

The correct value for the e-steps and the Bondtech QR feeder is 492.45 If you don't want to use the Tinkergnome FW, you can set the value with the following GCODEs: M92 E492.45 M500 With M500 you save the value to the eeprom, so you don't have to put the first line in every gcode.

No not the current, I mean the e-steps which should be at 492.?? Or something like that. You find the correct value in the Bondtech manual or here in the forum. The UM2 uses a quite lower value 28? And this could explain why you need to dramatically increase the flow. You cannot set this value with the stock Firmware but you can set it via gcode. The Tinkerfw has a menu option for that in the motion menu. Check the Bondtech site, there are detailed instructions how to configure the e-steps. I am quite sure this is your problem. I guess you have set it in the past but lost the value with a firmware upgrade or factory reset.

Have you set the steps for the QR feeder to the correct value?

Regarding the error message, it is not a failure of your workflow or something like that. I guess the X or Y switch was not adjusted correctly or got loose. So check both switches, turn off the printer and move manually the head to the end stops and hear for a "click"of the switches. You can adjust the switch with the 2 screws or carefully bend the metal part of it, but I would first check if moving the whole switch is enough. Then tighten the screws and you should be fine.

I have corrected the type for you.

The feeders in the printers are usually very strong and powerful, so it is not necessary to use any special spool holders. I know there was a hype about the low friction spool holders, but if necessary this method works fine too without under extrusion: The spool simply lies loosely in the wastepaper basket. 🙂

Since Ultimaker only sells through its resellers, this has happened. The reseller has informed you that there are currently problems with the firmware.

Yes, but a glue stick is very multifunctional. 🙂 Not only can it increase adhesion, it also serves to protect the surface. Since the glue stick is made of PVA, you can also try to remove the object with some water if it it sticks too good. Make some glue stripes on the bed and then distribute it with a wet tissue to get a thin layer.

Not really, try to apply some glue stick on the sheets, then you have a protective layer between the sheet and your object.

Do you have this issue with different types of material and color? Translucent filament or PVA can cause issues sometimes.

I've never heard of such behavior before. I don't think it has anything to do with the cloud either, because even if you start your print job via the cloud function, the GCode file is transferred to the printer first. I would print once with the USB stick to see if the error occurs again.

Theoretically you should be able to print faster with the Matchless block, because the heat conductivity is increased. But the difference is relatively small in practice and you won't notice it. So I would take the Olsson block again and the extra price of matchless is just not worth it. On the other hand, you don't do anything wrong with the Matchless block. I can recommend the fan shroud by Labern: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud Be aware that most fan shrouds are made for the Olsson Block, I don't know it they fit also the Matchless block.

Seems you have enabled Coasting in Cura.