Smithy

Ahh ok, then it is fine. But very cool in that size!

Cool! 🙂 But be aware that the PLA will break some day, so if you need the spring/flexible function you should consider another material than PLA.

Please provide the model or even better save the the project in Cura as 3mf file and upload it here.

Also die Gehäuse sind weiß und gibt es nur in weiß. Interessant, dass deine Mintgrün sind..... Ersatzteile gibt es alle, rufe einfach bei iGo3D an, die können alles besorgen auch wenn es auf der Webseite nicht gelistet ist.

You don't have to pay for Fusion360, check out the site, there are several options to get a free license.

Ok, I use only "always" as leveling frequency, because it doesn't bother me to spend a few seconds to to this and I can be sure it is ok before my print starts. But if you want to use another frequency then please send the logs, that this bug could be found and fixed.

For me I accept the risk, but with Fusion360 I have a software that is up to date. I took a quick look at FreeCad, but the interface reminds me of my youth and is no longer up to date 🙂 And Fusion360 isn't a real online application like Tinkercad, I'd say it's just strongly tied to the cloud and stores everything there. I also have that when I store my regular files in the iCloud or elsewhere. Autodesk also goes the way to the cloud like many others. Either you like it and accept disaster scenarios or you stay offline and look for another software. There are alternatives, especially if you use Windows.

Breakaway ist genial und auch günstiger als PVA. Ich verwende PVA eigentlich nur wenn es eben nicht anders geht.

Ich nehme an das Problem hier ist, dass PVA auf PLA nicht so gut haftet?

I am glad that it worked and thank you for the feedback!

But it is important to leave it several hours there, just 2-3 hours are not enough.

Yes it works great, just put the spool on the heated bed over night, cover it with a towel and it should be fine again.

Fusion360 is indeed a downloaded application, but it is a mix between online and offline. So I am not sure if you can completely work in an offline environment, never tried it, because nowadays you are almost lost with an offline workstation. But search Google or try it, I know there are possibilities to keep files offline and work with them, so it should be possible.

Printing only on glass is a game of chance. Often it works without problems but you can never be sure. That's why I always recommend a thin layer of UHU stick. This layer can withstand many prints and doesn't have to be renewed every time. If it doesn't work with the UHU stick either, then the distance nozzle bed is still not correct. Many people think they have adjusted it correctly, but this is often not the case.

At that time it was the last firmware before the change to the common firmware with the S5 came. I can't say if this image is still available, but I don't recommend a step back. The current firmware for the UM3 is actually stable and usable.

You should indeed be able to cancel a job, but I am not sure if you can cancel it when the change filament message is shown. Normally you can override this message, then the printer ignores the filament and then cancel the job.

Not a dedicated thread, but Ultimaker announces all new firmware versions here in the forum in a separate post.

On your photos it looks like this so it would be the first layer after the infill. In this case it would be normal that you have holes in this layer. The filament is held by the infill, but you get a gapless surface only after 2-3 layers. Or does the problem also occur later, that is not so obvious? I don't think vibrations do that. But I can't judge the noises like that, maybe you can make a video where you can hear it?

If it is stuck in the Bowden tube and you are not able to get it out as Reiner described, you can also try to completely remove the Bowden with the filament and hold it under warm water. PLA gets soft at 60°C so your chances are higher that you will get it out.

It is really very sensitive, a few hours in hot summer can be enough the "destroy" the PVA spool. So depending on your area and how much humidity you have, you should consider buying a dry box, like Polybox to keep the spool dry also during printing. In any case you should not leave the spool on the printer, always put it in a air tight bag or box with some silica gel packs. I use round Lock&Lock boxes but you can also use a simple bag, it doesn't matter.

UM2+ is more less and upgraded version of UM2. For the UM2 there is an upgrade kit available to change the print head which includes the Olsson block, the UM2+ has it already. So you can watch any video UM2 or UM2+ which is related to the Olsson block because both are valid and shows the needed instructions. Good luck 🙂

Absolutely.

Yes, I also had to deactivate it completely once, because it occurred again and again. Then it was activated again and it did not occur again until now.

In worst case you can disable the filament sensor in the printer settings.

It happens sometimes with PVA that you get an false alert. Could also happen if your PVA is not dry enough and is a little bit sticky or weak. I would not worry about it if it is not too often.