Smithy

With the Filafarm it is working fine, they also mention that on their website and they are also using the S5. I haven't seen yet any holes, the plate is very hard and not a soft thing like the buildtak. But I am wondering that it is not working with the WhamBam. I heard it should be really good, but it is not available in Europe or not easy to get, that's the reason I bought again the Filafarm. On the other hand I have no issues with the Filafarm, so never change a winning team.

You are welcome. If possible check it more closely, the failure sounds really like a non working front fan, but maybe it stops after some time. It is also possible that it is a connection problem. Check the wires from the front fan, maybe you can see that it is broken somewhere. The cable is routed quite near the hinge in the back left as far as I can remember, so could be that it got damaged there and with some faster head moves, the fan gets on and off. Or other idea, check the fan connector on the back of the printhead. Very unlikely that it got loose, but check it too.

Natürlich ändert sich der Fluss, auch im Vasenmodus, aber ich meinte damit, dass ich mit den Standard Werten bis dato immer sehr gut gefahren bin. Wahrscheinlich könnte man mit der 0.4er Düse auch um einiges kühler drucken, das würde erklären warum es mit 0.8er Düse auch noch klappt. Als fauler Mensch, ist es mir aber nur recht wenn ich daran nicht denken muss, eventuell die Temperatur zu ändern.

There are several temp settings in Cura, check all of them. The search field helps to show also hidden settings, which are not visible due to your configuration.

With wall thickness, do you mean the wall thickness of the model or the setting in Cura? You can try if it helps to enable the setting "Print Thin Walls" I never had the need to print a single wall, but as far as I know Cura don't print just a single wall. Cura always prints 2 walls, except you print in vase mode.

Cura Connect war der Vorgänger der Cloudlösung Digital Factory. Aber über die API des Druckers sollte es mit externer Hilfe (Script) funktionieren: Man muss ich dann halt nur ein Script basteln, welches die Druckdatei zu einem bestimmten Zeitpunk an den Drucker schickt. Sollte eigentlich funktionieren. @DirgDiggler Falls das noch aktuell ist, könnte ich eine Funktion dazu in mein UltiTuner Tool https://github.com/SmithyAT/UltiTuner einbauen, dann muss man sich nicht tiefer mit der API befassen.

Yes there could be a small difference between the beginning and the end, but not so much as when you level with the cold nozzle and print with the hot one. And additionally a hot print core is needed to soften any filament residues on the tip of the nozzle. Heating up a print core is quite fast, the time you notice after leveling and before starting the print is the print bed which takes much longer to heat up again and which is also turned off during leveling to avoid electrical interferences.

Ich glaube der Druckfehler hat andere Gründe. Die Temperatur spielt schon eine Rolle, aber so wie Falko schon geschrieben hat, nicht alleine. Du kannst mit gleicher Temperatur und niedriger Geschwindigkeit das gleiche erzielen. Die Lagerhöhe kommt auch noch ins Spiel. Es hängt ja von der Materialmenge ab die geschmolzen werden muss und die Menge ist abhängig vom Düsendurchmesser, Druckgeschwindigkeit, Layerhöhe. Wenn ich mit einer 0.8er Düse im Vase Mode drucke, ändere ich gar keine Temperatureinstellungen. Drucke aber auch nur wie du rund um die 40mm/sec und mit Layerhöhen 0.2 oder 0.3. Aber auch mit 0.4 ändere ich nichts. Konnte noch nie ein schlechtes Druckbild dadurch feststellen. Auch bei diversen Tests wo ich die Temperatur erhöht habe, gab es keine Unterschiede. Also ich denke mit den Settings ist es egal. Wenn du mit 70mm/sec druckst, schaut die Sache schon wieder anders aus.

Additionally it could also be helpful if you then connect your printer to your own Digital Factory account. There are a lot of useful functions there, not only when you are away from your printer, but it makes some things easier.

Let me know if it was helpful, please or if we have to analyze it deeper.

Could be when the printer was connected to the digital factory before. You could do a factory reset or maybe better a "...connect.." reset, don't know the exact name out of my head, but it is in the same menu as the factory reset. That just resets the cloud configuration and would disconnect the printer from the previous owners Digital factory.

The cause for that is normally a non working front fan, when the core is not cooled anymore. But as far as I understood you already have checked that?

I don't think that a typo is enough to put a foreign printer into another account. As far as I know, also the printer itself has to be in a state that he can be connected to the Digital Factory. Otherwise it would be a big security issue, when someone can just try a lot of PINs. So when you don't select the "connect to cloud" option on the printer menu, then nothing happens. But I meant another issue with my question above. Some users just want to access the printer from outside and put the printer directly to the internet. So the printer has a public IP address or they opened the WebGUI port on the router/firewall to be able to access to printer from home. This is a very high security risk, because then everyone can access your printer and send print jobs. I think that's the case here. So please, put the printer behind a firewall/router, don't forward any port from outside to your printer and just use the Digital Factory feature where are also able to access your printer from home, but not exposing the whole printer unprotected to everyone. Just to think that nobody knows the IP address is not enough to feel "protected". A google search with some parameters is usually enough to find exposed printers, webcams and so on.

Is your printer connected to the public internet or is the printer accessible from the internet? (Router, Portforwarding,...)

Yes, that's nice! Maybe I can play a little bit more with it in the next days. If it is not working, also not a big issue, the plate is working like the normal one, and the price tag is also the same.

The reason why the heater is turned off before leveling starts is that there are many interferences from the heater that could cause a leveling error.

Not yet, but good idea, will try it. The plate itself is also not so "rough" (hope that's the right word) as the Prusa one. So I was expecting a little less texture than with the Prusa plate, but a bit more would be nice 🙂 As far as I can remember (I sold my Prusa again), the surface was very nice, without any extrusion lines. But you are right, maybe I leveled the Prusa much closer to the plate and it was much more squishing.

Ok, so the Filafarm Switch plate general is great. I have one for the UM3 for a year or so and never had problems. The new one for the S5 fits also perfectly and I am happy that I don't need to apply UHU stick, spray or whatever to get a good adhesion and that I don't have to fear that I chip my glass with ABS, PETG or ToughPLA. But the textured Filaprint RS is a joke 🙂 In reality is a bit more visible than on the picture, but not what I have expected. The print is maybe not so shiny than with the normal plate or with glass. Maybe someone can see a but of a texture on the surface, but nothing what we know from the Prusa plate. So in my opinion, the RS is not bad, but is has not the expected texture I though. Very small difference between the normal and the RS one.

@jsw I've received the Filafarm Switch plate yesterday and it fits perfectly on the S5. For the S5 I have ordered the normal Filaprint plate, not the textured one. The content of the package, a thinner glass, magnetic plate, spring steel and the Filaprint plate: The Filaprint has an adhesive tape on the back. Here mounted on the print steel: Also the magnetic plate is adhesive on one side and you have to stick on the glass. Here the base in the printer: And here complete, with the spring steel on it. But I also ordered a Switch plate for the S3 and there I selected the Filaprint RS textured plate. Currently printing a test object to see how the surface comes out with the textured plate. It is less textured than the Prusa one, so I am curious how it will be. Will post a picture when the print is finished.

Würde ich nicht sagen, verwende ausschließlich Macs und meide Windows wie der Teufel das Weihwasser, aber mir geht nichts ab. Habe lange Fusion360 verwendet, welches aber mit den neueren Macs mit M1 Chips nicht mehr flüssig läuft und bin seit einem halben Jahr auf Onshape umgestiegen und fragte mich warum ich das nicht schon viel früher gemacht habe. Kann zwar keine Mesh Dateien bearbeiten, aber der Rest gefällt mir besser als bei F360. Und dass es im Browser läuft, halte ich ebenfalls noch für einen Vorteil. Es geht sogar meine 3DConnexion Spacemouse mit Onshape im Browser, also was will man mehr. Zu Sketchup wurde schon einiges gesagt, ich kann nur dazu sagen, lass die Finger davon, die Software wurde nicht dazu entwickelt, Modelle für den 3D Druck zu erstellen, auch wenn es für einige funktionieren mag.

I have the spools on the side, because I also have not enough space behind the printer. There are several solutions, with spool holders hanging on the side panel or just as I did, printed some standalone spool holders. All without NFC, but I don't don't really miss the NFC thing, it is not too much work to manually select the material type during loading. It is basically not needed to have the NFC reader on the spool holder itself. It is just used during loading the filament. So you could take out the nfc board from the original spool holder and put it wherever it fits best for you. Then when loading a new spool, just hold the spool near the nfc board and when the printer has detected the spool, put it in your spool holder on the side.

As already said, I have currently the Filafarm for my S3, but ordered one for the S5 as well. Should fit out of the box, but I will report when it is here.

Nein, oder anders gesagt nicht immer. Manche Filament Hersteller nehmen sich viel Zeit und investieren einiges an Tests um ein gutes Profil zu erstellen. Andere machen das nicht und wollen einfach nur gelistet sein im Marketplace. Aber die Bedeutung von diesen Profilen wird oft überbewertet, da steht oft nichts andere drinnen also ein paar Eckparameter, die man auch selbst leicht herausfinden kann. Also wenn du ein paar Testdrucke nicht scheust, dann würde ich mir das Material nehmen welches optimal passt und nicht die Verfügbarkeit im Marketplace als Kriterium nehmen.

@Super_paulie You can skip the cool down phase with a one time command to the printer, which is then active all the time. To do it, you need ofc a ssh connection to enable it, but then it just works. The mention method above would also not help for the cool down phase, it is when someone forgot to press the button after removal or if you abort a print job before it has actually started. This can help you to "remotely" clean the printer state that you can start the next job without the need to go to the printer physically. I wrote a tool to do such things, check this thread, there is also a download link: To use it from home you need a connection to your school, maybe VPN or something like that. Another possibility could be a pc in the school with teamviewer running. Then you can connect to this machine from home and run the tool or whatever you want.

Ja das geht schon mit dem richtigen System. Ich verwende das Switch System von Filafarm, das wird mit einer dünneren Glasplatte geliefert damit die Gesamthöhe/dicke wieder stimmt. Aber welche Probleme hast du mit deinem Setup? Du könntest auch das Bett mit den 3 Rändelschrauben etwas nach unten drehen, dann sollte die Höhe auch wieder passen.